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Fermentation
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Fermentation in Cosmetics
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Fermentation in Cosmetics

A special issue of Fermentation (ISSN 2311-5637). This special issue belongs to the section "Industrial Fermentation".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 December 2023) | Viewed by 21514

Special Issue Editor

Prof. Dr. Hiroshi Kitagaki

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Environmental Sciences, Saga University 1, Honjo-machi, Saga 840-8502, Japan
Interests: microbiology; intestinal microbiota; skin health; biotechnology; sphingolipid chemistry; mitochondria; sugar chemistry; biomass chemistry; fermentation chemistry; cell biology
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Cosmetics have been manufactured by the use of synthetic chemical, but the potential harmful effects of synthetic chemicals are considered one of the causes of skin diseases and have recently gained attention. On the contrary, fermented foods and/or products, including lactic acid bacteria, yeast and koji, have traditionally been utilized as cosmetics for a long time. However, the scientific mechanisms underlying their effects on the skin have not been fully elucidated. In this Special Issue, we collect recent scientific findings on the relationship between cosmetics derived from fermented foods and/or products and skin health. Scientific articles describing the effect of cosmetics derived from fermented foods and/or products on skin health, the composition and/or interaction of the ingredients of cosmetics with fermented foods and/or products, and other related themes are welcome.

Prof. Dr. Hiroshi Kitagaki
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Fermentation is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • cosmetics
  • fermentation
  • fermented foods
  • koji
  • lactic acid bacteria

Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

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13 pages, 4158 KiB  
Article
Bacillus subtilis Fermentation Augments the Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Moisture Improvement Activities of Tetragonia tetragonoides through the Upregulation of Antioxidant Components
by Hyun Kang, Jin-Woo Hwang and Sung-Gyu Lee
Fermentation 2023, 9(9), 800; https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation9090800 - 30 Aug 2023
Viewed by 946
Abstract
This study demonstrates that the fermentation of Tetragonia tetragonioides (T. tetragonioides) by Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis) subsp. spizizenii enhances its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-moisturizing activities. Fermented T. tetragonioides extracts (FTEs) showed a significant increase (p < 0.05) of [...] Read more.
This study demonstrates that the fermentation of Tetragonia tetragonioides (T. tetragonioides) by Bacillus subtilis (B. subtilis) subsp. spizizenii enhances its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-moisturizing activities. Fermented T. tetragonioides extracts (FTEs) showed a significant increase (p < 0.05) of approximately 1.3 to 3.07 times in their total polyphenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and vanillic acid content compared to pre-fermentation T. tetragonioides extracts (TEs). Additionally, the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)- and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical-scavenging activities were significantly higher (p < 0.05) in FTEs than in TEs, showing an increase of about 1.25 to 1.64 times. The anti-inflammatory effects, evaluated through the inhibition of nitric oxide (NO) in RAW 264.7 cells stimulated by lipopolysaccharide (LPS), revealed that FTEs exhibited significant (p < 0.05) NO inhibition activity at less than half the concentration of TEs. It is particularly noteworthy that the FTE at 200 μg/mL significantly suppressed the expression of the cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) proteins. In HaCaT cells, FTEs substantially (p < 0.001) increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin (FLG), hyaluronan synthase (HAS)-1, and HAS-3, indicating improved skin protection and moisturization. In conclusion, this study confirms that T. tetragonioides’ antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-moisturizing activities are enhanced by B. subtilis fermentation, suggesting the potential of FTEs as a cosmeceutical ingredient. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fermentation in Cosmetics)
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15 pages, 2349 KiB  
Article
Whitening Activity of Acteoside from Stachys sieboldii Fermented with Hericium erinaceus Mycelia on Melanocytes
by Seung-Bin Im, Seul-Ki Mun, Neul-I Ha, Ho-Yeol Jang, Kyung-Yun Kang, Kyung-Wuk Park, Kyoung-Sun Seo, Kyung-Je Kim and Sung-Tae Yee
Fermentation 2023, 9(8), 697; https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation9080697 - 25 Jul 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1046
Abstract
Skin whitening has recently renewed attention on Chinese herbal medicines with whitening activity for esthetic applications. Stachys sieboldii has been used as herbal medicine since ancient times and has the potential for development as a cosmetic material because of its astringent effect. In [...] Read more.
Skin whitening has recently renewed attention on Chinese herbal medicines with whitening activity for esthetic applications. Stachys sieboldii has been used as herbal medicine since ancient times and has the potential for development as a cosmetic material because of its astringent effect. In this study, with an aim to develop new functional materials with whitening effects, S. sieboldii water extracts were fermented with different mushroom mycelia. Fermented with Hericium erinaceus mycelia showed the strongest tyrosinase inhibition effect and the lowest melanin content. Thus, H. erinaceus mycelia, the most potent inhibitor of melanogenesis, was used for large-scale fermentation and fractionated. The ethyl acetate fraction, which had the strongest whitening activity, was separated and purified using HPLC. Finally, the single compound was isolated and identified as acteoside, which has promising whitening activity. Acteoside inhibited melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. The effects of acteoside on the expression of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF were analyzed using Western blot analysis, which showed that acteoside reduced the protein in a dose-dependent manner. Our findings reveal the potential applicability of S. sieboldii extract fermented with H. erinaceus mycelia and its useful component, which is an acteosid, for skin lightening and the treatment of pigmentation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fermentation in Cosmetics)
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18 pages, 3776 KiB  
Article
Functional Properties of an Oat-Based Postbiotic Aimed at a Potential Cosmetic Formulation
by Giulia Lentini, Federica Nigro, Rosa Colucci Cante, Francesca Passannanti, Marianna Gallo, Andrea Luigi Budelli and Roberto Nigro
Fermentation 2022, 8(11), 632; https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation8110632 - 12 Nov 2022
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2252
Abstract
The concept of postbiotic has been attracting the attention of the scientific community and several industrial realities to develop new claims and new market segments for functional fermented products. The aim of this work was to develop a process to produce an oat-based [...] Read more.
The concept of postbiotic has been attracting the attention of the scientific community and several industrial realities to develop new claims and new market segments for functional fermented products. The aim of this work was to develop a process to produce an oat-based postbiotic ingredient to be used in personal care cosmetic formulations. A hydrolyzed oatmeal suspension was fermented using Lacticaseibacillus paracasei CBA L74 as starter culture, at 37 °C for 48 h by controlling the pH; then the bacterial charge was inactivated by a mild thermal treatment at 80 °C for 30 s, obtaining a postbiotic. The effect of different process steps, hydrolysis, sterilization, fermentation, and inactivation phases, on lactic acid concentration, total polyphenolic content, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition activity and Sun Protection Factor value was investigated, demonstrating the potential cosmetic applications. The maximum bacterial growth and lactic acid production were achieved after 24 h of process, with a cell density and a lactic acid concentration of 3.05 × 109 CFU/mL and 8.60 g/L, respectively. The total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity reached their maximum values (2.5 mgGAE/mL, EC50 = 2.2 mg/mL and 1.38 × 10−2 mmol Fe2+/g and 7.3 × 10−3 mmol TE/g, respectively) after the sterilization treatment; the maximum tyrosinase inhibition of 50.6%, corresponding to a sample concentration of 16 mg/mL, was found after 24 h of fermentation process. Fermentation did not show an impact on UV shielding ability and the SPF value decreased during the process. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fermentation in Cosmetics)
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18 pages, 2724 KiB  
Article
Enhancement of Melanogenic Inhibitory Effects of the Leaf Skin Extracts of Aloe barbadensis Miller by the Fermentation Process
by Gibeom Jeon, Hyang-Sun Ro, Gyu-Rae Kim and Hyeon-Yong Lee
Fermentation 2022, 8(11), 580; https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation8110580 - 27 Oct 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2190
Abstract
This work first showed that the skin-lightening effects of the leaf skin extracts of Aloe vera were significantly increased by the fermentation of Lactobacillus plantarum BN41. The fermented extract (BF) showed much higher antioxidant activities of DPPH scavenging effects and the reduction in [...] Read more.
This work first showed that the skin-lightening effects of the leaf skin extracts of Aloe vera were significantly increased by the fermentation of Lactobacillus plantarum BN41. The fermented extract (BF) showed much higher antioxidant activities of DPPH scavenging effects and the reduction in intracellular ROS production than the water extract (BW), and even higher than Trolox as a positive control. High efficacy of the BF results was shown from the synergistic effects of higher elution of aloesin (2.96 ± 0.09 mg/g vs. 2.03 ± 0.02 mg/g in BF and BW, respectively) and bioactive substances from the fermentation processes. The inhibition of tyrosinase activities and melanin synthesis at 0.3% (w/v) optimal dosage of BF was much better than those of arbutin and aloesin, which are commercial skin-lightening ingredients. It was also first proved that BF effectively down-regulated all microphthalmia-associated transcription factors (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1) and TYRP-2, and tyrosinase (TYR) gene expression (p < 0.05), proposing melanogenesis inhibitory mechanism in the MITF/TYRP-1/TYRP-2/TYR pathway. However, aloesin and arbutin selectively suppressed the expression of TRYP-1, TRYP-2 or TYR. It was clearly demonstrated that the fermentation process reduces inherent cytotoxicity of aloe, showing much less cell cytotoxicity than BW. Conclusively, 0.3% (w/v) of the BF can be utilized as a competitive and sustainable natural skin-lightening ingredient. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fermentation in Cosmetics)
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Review

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34 pages, 6114 KiB  
Review
Unlocking the Potential of Fermentation in Cosmetics: A Review
by Cristina Pérez-Rivero and José Pablo López-Gómez
Fermentation 2023, 9(5), 463; https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation9050463 - 12 May 2023
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 8539
Abstract
The cosmetic segment is a rapidly growing industry that has been challenged in recent years due to the origin and impact of its ingredients and manufacturing techniques. With a focus on reducing carbon dioxide emissions and improving the degradability of products, many conventional [...] Read more.
The cosmetic segment is a rapidly growing industry that has been challenged in recent years due to the origin and impact of its ingredients and manufacturing techniques. With a focus on reducing carbon dioxide emissions and improving the degradability of products, many conventional ingredients are being dismissed to meet more exigent regulations and consumer ethical demands. Biotechnology, and fermentation as the core technology, is a solution to support and drive more sustainable growth for the cosmetic industry. This review presents the latest research and development in fermentation applied to cosmetics and showcases multiple examples throughout all classes of ingredients: from functional compounds, such as oil and surfactants, to multi-faceted molecules with a wide spectrum of formulations and skin benefits derived from their emulsifying, antimicrobial or antioxidant properties. The bottlenecks associated with the commercialization of such ingredients, together with successful examples, are also discussed. The shift towards a bio-based beauty industry requires a combination of technical, regulatory and marketing efforts. Fermentation strategies to better utilize low-cost substrates and optimize microorganisms and processes will reduce overall costs, reducing the price gap with traditional methods of production. The testing, standardization and regulation of these new ingredients need to catch up with the fast research happening in the field. Finally, consumer communication is key to achieve a successful introduction of biotech ingredients in the market. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fermentation in Cosmetics)
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9 pages, 239 KiB  
Review
Fermented Cosmetics and Metabolites of Skin Microbiota—A New Approach to Skin Health
by Akira Otsuka, Chihiro Moriguchi, Yuka Shigematsu, Kurumi Tanabe, Nanami Haraguchi, Sonoko Iwashita, Yoshihiro Tokudome and Hiroshi Kitagaki
Fermentation 2022, 8(12), 703; https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation8120703 - 02 Dec 2022
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 4657
Abstract
The skin covers our entire body and is said to be the “largest organ of the human body”. It has many health-maintaining functions, such as protecting the body from ultraviolet rays and dryness and maintaining body temperature through energy metabolism. However, the number [...] Read more.
The skin covers our entire body and is said to be the “largest organ of the human body”. It has many health-maintaining functions, such as protecting the body from ultraviolet rays and dryness and maintaining body temperature through energy metabolism. However, the number of patients suffering from skin diseases, including atopic dermatitis, is increasing due to strong irritation of the skin caused by detergents that are spread by the development of the chemical industry. The skin is inhabited by about 102–107 cells/cm2 and 1000 species of commensal bacteria, fungi, viruses, and other microorganisms. In particular, metabolites such as fatty acids and glycerol released by indigenous skin bacteria have been reported to have functional properties for the health of the skin. Therefore, skin-domesticating bacteria and the metabolites derived from those bacteria are used in many skincare product ingredients and function as probiotic cosmetics. Japanese traditional fermented stuff, used as foods in Japan for over 1300 years, are now being applied as fermented cosmetics. Fermented cosmetics are expected to have multifaceted health functionality and continue to grow as products in the natural skincare product market. In this review, we consider approaches to skin health using fermented cosmetics and modulation of skin microflora metabolites. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fermentation in Cosmetics)
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