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9 pages, 2439 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Inhibitory Effect of 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on Tyrosinase Activity and Melanin Production

by Hisae Aoshima, Ruka Mizuno, Yuho Iwatsu, Shiori Onishi, Sayuri Hyodo, Rinta Ibuki, Hirokazu Kawagishi and Yasukazu Saitoh

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 43; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020043 - 13 Mar 2024

Viewed by 1209

Abstract

A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis [...] Read more.

A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis of L^* values. In the present study, to elucidate the mechanism underlying the increase in skin lightness, we aimed to investigate the effect of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on murine melanoma cell lines, focusing on its influence on tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Our findings revealed that the addition of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine inhibited tyrosinase activity by 13% compared with the untreated control. Similarly, melanin production was suppressed by 36% compared with the control. These results strongly suggest that the inhibition of tyrosinase effectively suppressed melanin production. Thus, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine acts by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production to promote skin lightening. This study provides novel insights into the skin-lightening mechanism of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, demonstrating its ability to inhibit melanin production through the suppression of pro-inflammatory factors, thereby highlighting its potential as an effective cosmetic ingredient for lightening skin tone. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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18 pages, 4504 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Obesity Effect of Daidzein Derived from Pachyrhizus erosus (L.) Urb. Extract via PPAR Pathway in MDI-Induced 3T3-L1 Cell Line

by Moon-Hee Choi, Seung-Hwa Yang, Yeo-Jin Lee, Jeong Ho Sohn, Ki Sun Lee and Hyun-Jae Shin

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 164; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060164 - 01 Dec 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2068

Abstract

Pachyrhizus erosus (L.) Urb. is a tropical perennial vine plant native to southern Mexico, Southeast Asia, Central America, and Africa. In this study, we analyzed and identified various polyphenolic compounds and isoflavones present in ethanolic P. erosus root extracts and investigated their potential [...] Read more.

Pachyrhizus erosus (L.) Urb. is a tropical perennial vine plant native to southern Mexico, Southeast Asia, Central America, and Africa. In this study, we analyzed and identified various polyphenolic compounds and isoflavones present in ethanolic P. erosus root extracts and investigated their potential anti-obesity activity as a natural health food resource. The extraction process involved drying the yam bean, followed by extraction with 70% ethanol, evaporation, and freeze-drying. Fractionation was achieved through layer separation using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol (BuOH), and water. The EtOAc fraction exhibited the highest antioxidant activity among the experimental groups, with an IC₅₀ value of 531.77 µg/mL for ABTS radical scavenging. In α-glucosidase and lipase inhibition assays, IC₅₀ values were determined to be 873.07 µg/mL and 915.02 µg/mL, respectively. Using HPLC and LC-MS/MS, we detected isoflavone components in P. erosus root extracts, identifying daidzein, genistein, and rotenone among them. Daidzein was the most abundant isoflavone in P. erosus root extracts. To validate the anti-obesity activity in the EtOAc fraction and daidzein, we used 3T3-L1 preadipocytes treated with MDI (3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine, dexamethasone, insulin) for 8 days. Oil Red O staining experiments demonstrated a concentration-dependent reduction in lipid content in the EtOAc fraction and daidzein treatment groups. Additionally, we examined the expression pattern of proteins related to the leptin-PPAR-FAS Pathway, revealing a concentration-dependent decrease in obesity-related proteins. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 1464 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical Properties, Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities of Durio zibethinus Murray and Value Added for Cosmetic Product Formulation

by Lapatrada Mungmai, Chanapa Kanokwattananon, Supawadee Thakang, Arkhanut Nakkrathok, Pawalee Srisuksomwong and Patcharawan Tanamatayarat

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030087 - 05 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2733

Abstract

Durio zibethinus Murray, or durian fruit, is considered the “King of fruit” in various parts of Southeast Asia. It is classified in the Durio genus, which has been reported to be beneficial in the medical and pharmaceutical industry. The objective of this study [...] Read more.

Durio zibethinus Murray, or durian fruit, is considered the “King of fruit” in various parts of Southeast Asia. It is classified in the Durio genus, which has been reported to be beneficial in the medical and pharmaceutical industry. The objective of this study was to investigate the physicochemical properties, biological activities, and cosmetic applications of the polysaccharide extractions from the green (GH) and white (WH) fruit-hulls and the ethanolic extracts from the pulp (P) and seeds (S) of D. Zibethinus. The extracts were developed as cosmetic products, and skin irritation was assessed by volunteers. P, S, GH, and WH extracts gave percentage yields of 12.13, 4.01, 1.60, and 1.18, respectively. The morphological structure of GH was highly porous, while the surface of WH was flattened, with no porosity observed. The seed extract showed the highest total phenolic content and antioxidant activity (DPPH) of 0.33 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g and IC₅₀ 0.08 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively, while no anti-tyrosinase activity was detected in any individual extract. The total phenolic content, DPPH assay, and anti-tyrosinase activity after blending the extracts were significantly (p < 0.05) higher than in the individual extracts. Combining extracts such as SGH and SGWH gave IC₅₀ values of anti-tyrosinase activity at 8.69 ± 1.82 mg/mL and 0.067 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively. No durian extracts exhibited growth inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Cutibacterium acnes. A gel formulation containing durian extract was prepared by a cold process. It had good stability, with no skin irritation reported by the volunteers. Both crude durian and polysaccharide extracts showed promise as active ingredients in cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 2645 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessment of Antioxidant, Anti-Lipid Peroxidation, Antiglycation, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Tyrosinase Properties of Dendrobium sulcatum Lindl

by Tammanoon Rungsang, Jukkarin Srivilai, Pawarit Rakasawapokin, Patpitcha Rakasawapokin, Lapatrada Mungmai, Krittanon Saesue, Patteera Aoonboontum, Noppanon Plukham, Pandaree Siriwipanan, Pimchanok Chaichanathawikit, Nantaka Khorana and Eakkaluk Wongwad

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 43; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020043 - 01 Mar 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2776

Abstract

Dendrobium sulcatum Lindl or “Ueang Jampa-Nan” (Orchidaceae family) is widely dis-tributed in Thailand and Laos. It is classified in the genus Dendrobium, which is used in both traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic medicine for health enhancement and anti-aging. The purpose of this [...] Read more.

Dendrobium sulcatum Lindl or “Ueang Jampa-Nan” (Orchidaceae family) is widely dis-tributed in Thailand and Laos. It is classified in the genus Dendrobium, which is used in both traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic medicine for health enhancement and anti-aging. The purpose of this study was to investigate the phytochemical constituents and bioefficacy of stems, leaves and flowers from D. sulcatum for cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Phenolic and flavonoid contents were tested for the phytochemical evaluation. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP and ABTS assays), anti-lipid peroxidation, antiglycation, anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase properties were assessed for their bioefficacy. The results showed that the extracts of stem and leaf had higher total phenolic content than that of the flower, and the leaf extract had the highest flavonoid content. The antioxidant, anti-lipid peroxidation and anti-inflammatory activities of the extracts were greater in those from the stem and leaf compared with that of the flower. The leaf extract exhibited the greatest antiglycation property. The results of anti-tyrosinase analysis of the extracts showed that the leaf and flower exhibited potent activities with a percentage inhibition greater than 70% (at a concentration of 50 µg/mL). In conclusion, these findings suggest that the ethanolic extracts from different parts of D. sulcatum are promising sources of natural active ingredients for further cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 7929 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Low-Molecular-Weight Gels as Smart Materials for the Enhancement of Antioxidants Activity

by Aneta Ácsová Toronyi, Demetra Giuri, Silvia Martiniakova and Claudia Tomasini

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 38; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020038 - 21 Feb 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2331

Abstract

Antioxidants are important substances used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields that are able to block free radicals. These compounds can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, such as release over time or preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the [...] Read more.

Antioxidants are important substances used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields that are able to block free radicals. These compounds can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, such as release over time or preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the present study, a low-molecular-weight gel made with Boc-L-DOPA(Bn)₂-OH was studied as suitable material to host antioxidants and improve their activity. The solvent change (DMSO/H₂O) in combination with temperature was the technological procedure for the preparation of the gel. Two different antioxidants were tested: (1) α-tocopherol and (2) postbiotics. The antioxidant activity of α-tocopherol and of the postbiotics in the gel, measured by the (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl radical (DPPH) assay, showed higher values than those in the pure solvent. The antioxidant activity of the gel with 0.8 w/v% of gelator and α-tocopherol in the concentration range of 5–100 µM was 2.7–1.1 times higher on average than in the pure solvent. In the case of both postbiotics, the biggest difference was observed at 30% of postbiotics in the gel with 0.5% of a gelator, when the antioxidant activity was 4.4 to 4.7 times higher than that in the pure solvent. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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Review

Jump to: Research

41 pages, 9048 KiB

Open AccessReview

An Updated Etiology of Hair Loss and the New Cosmeceutical Paradigm in Therapy: Clearing ‘the Big Eight Strikes’

by Nicholas Sadgrove, Sanjay Batra, David Barreto and Jeffrey Rapaport

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040106 - 18 Jul 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 10783

Abstract

In this current review, research spanning the last decade (such as transcriptomic studies, phenotypic observations, and confirmed comorbidities) has been synthesized into an updated etiology of hair loss and applied to the new cosmeceutical paradigm of hair rejuvenation. The major etiological components in [...] Read more.

In this current review, research spanning the last decade (such as transcriptomic studies, phenotypic observations, and confirmed comorbidities) has been synthesized into an updated etiology of hair loss and applied to the new cosmeceutical paradigm of hair rejuvenation. The major etiological components in scalps with hair loss are denoted as the ‘big eight strikes’, which include the following: androgens, prostaglandins, overactive aerobic metabolism of glucose, bacterial or fungal over-colonization, inflammation, fibrosis, metabolism or circulation problems, and malnutrition. The relevance of the ‘big eight’ to nine categories of hair loss is explained. In cases of androgenetic alopecia or female pattern hair loss, both elevated DHT and increased frequency of androgen receptors lead to problems with the metabolism of glucose (sugar), redox imbalance, disruption to the electron transport chain, and PPAR-γ overactivity (the latter is unique to androgenetic alopecia, where the reverse occurs in other types of hair loss). These etiological factors and others from ‘the big eight’ are the focal point of our hypothetical narrative of the attenuative mechanisms of commercial cosmeceutical hair serums. We conclude that cosmeceuticals with the potential to improve all eight strikes (according to published in vitro or clinical data) utilize bioactive peptides and plant compounds that are either flavonoids (isoflavones, procyanidins, flavanols, and flavonols) or sterols/triterpenes. It is noteworthy that many therapeutic interventions are generic to the multiple types of hair loss. Lastly, suggestions are made on how scalp and hair health can be improved by following the cosmeceutical approach. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 2700 KiB

Open AccessReview

Biochemical Properties and Cosmetic Uses of Commiphora myrrha and Boswellia serrata

by Bssmah Ghazi Alraddadi and Hyun-Jae Shin

Cosmetics 2022, 9(6), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060119 - 12 Nov 2022

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 8088

Abstract

Organic materials have been the subject of numerous recent cosmetics studies. Plant extracts and/or plant-derived resources in the Middle East have significant potential in many cosmetic fields because they exhibit useful properties that promote the repair of cellular functions and improve skin conditions. [...] Read more.

Organic materials have been the subject of numerous recent cosmetics studies. Plant extracts and/or plant-derived resources in the Middle East have significant potential in many cosmetic fields because they exhibit useful properties that promote the repair of cellular functions and improve skin conditions. Multiple organic substances from these resources have long-lasting environmental effects, extensive storage capacities, and affect human physiological activity. Recent studies have revealed that Commiphora myrrha (myrrh) and Boswellia serrata (frankincense) extracts can prevent aging, acne, and spots while enhancing skin moisture and suppleness. Given that myrrh and frankincense exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant characteristics that significantly improve human health, their utilization in various cosmetic products has received attention from global cosmetic corporations. This review details the bioactive compounds and cosmeceutical properties of myrrh and frankincense and their use in cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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17 pages, 730 KiB

Open AccessReview

A Review of Moisturizing Additives for Atopic Dermatitis

by Vincentsia Vienna Vanessa, Wan Syazween Lyana Wan Ahmad Kammal, Zee Wei Lai and Kang Nien How

Cosmetics 2022, 9(4), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9040075 - 25 Jul 2022

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 9912

Abstract

Atopic dermatitis, the most common form of eczema, is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin condition that occurs with dry skin, persistent itching, and scaly lesions. This debilitating condition significantly compromises the patient’s quality of life due to the intractable itching and other associated [...] Read more.

Atopic dermatitis, the most common form of eczema, is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin condition that occurs with dry skin, persistent itching, and scaly lesions. This debilitating condition significantly compromises the patient’s quality of life due to the intractable itching and other associated factors such as disfigurement, sleeping disturbances, and social stigmatization from the visible lesions. The treatment mainstay of atopic dermatitis involves applying topical glucocorticosteroids and calcineurin inhibitors, combined with regular use of moisturizers. However, conventional treatments possess a certain degree of adverse effects, which raised concerns among the patients resulting in non-adherence to treatment. Hence, the modern use of moisturizers to improve barrier repair and function is of great value. One of the approaches includes incorporating bioactive ingredients with clinically proven therapeutic benefits into dermocosmetics emollient. The current evidence suggests that these dermocosmetics emollients aid in the improvement of the skin barrier and alleviate inflammation, pruritus and xerosis. We carried out a critical and comprehensive narrative review of the literature. Studies and trials focusing on moisturizers that include phytochemicals, natural moisturizing factors, essential fatty acids, endocannabinoids, and antioxidants were identified by searching electronic databases (PubMed and MEDLINE). We introduce the current knowledge on the roles of moisturizers in alleviating symptoms of atopic dermatitis. We then further summarize the science and rationale of the active ingredients in dermocosmetics and medical device emollients for treating atopic dermatitis. Finally, we highlight the limitations of the current evidence and future perspectives of cosmeceutical research on atopic dermatitis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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