Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling

A special issue of Atmosphere (ISSN 2073-4433). This special issue belongs to the section "Climatology".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 January 2020) | Viewed by 32395

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
Institute of Oceanography, Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, 19013 Anavyssos, Greece
Interests: marine renewable energy; stochastic modeling; extremes; marine monitoring systems
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Guest Editor
Institute of Coastal Research, Helmholtz Centre Geesthacht, Max-Planck-Str. 1, 21502 Geesthacht, Germany
Interests: circulation and wave modeling; coastal ocean predictions; coupled model systems; modeling of marine environment; wave dynamics; coastal and regional oceanography

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The aim of this Special Issue is to provide recent advances in the field of wind waves modeling and wave climate. Wave climate analysis and modeling play an important role in several applications such as coastal and metocean studies, design of wave energy harvesters, optimal ship routing, climate change issues, etc. This topic encompasses various probabilistic and statistical aspects and multivariate methods, including extreme value analysis methods and models, directional wave statistics, multivariate probability distributions, etc. Wave models are used for operational forecasting purposes, wave climate synthesis and analysis, wave climate change studies, coastal impact assessments, etc. The topic is also highly relevant to different engineering applications, such as wave interaction with coastal and offshore structures and design of coastal works.

Topics of interest for the Special Issue include but are not limited to:

  • Probabilistic methods for wave climate analysis
  • Wind-wave modeling
  • Directional wave climate analysis
  • Synergy of wind wave model with satellite and in situ observations
  • Extreme waves
  • Applications

Dr. Takvor Soukissian
Dr. Joanna Staneva
Guest Editors

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Keywords

  • Wave climate
  • Numerical wave modeling
  • Forecasting
  • Extreme waves
  • Directional statistics

Published Papers (8 papers)

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Research

21 pages, 1274 KiB  
Article
Impact of Air–Wave–Sea Coupling on the Simulation of Offshore Wind and Wave Energy Potentials
by Lichuan Wu, Mingming Shao and Erik Sahlée
Atmosphere 2020, 11(4), 327; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11040327 - 28 Mar 2020
Cited by 14 | Viewed by 4033
Abstract
Offshore wind and wave energy potentials are commonly simulated by atmosphere and wave stand-alone models, in which the Atmosphere–Wave–Ocean (AWO) dynamical coupling processes are neglected. Based on four experiments (simulated by UU-CM, Uppsala University-Coupled model) with four different coupling configurations between atmosphere, waves, [...] Read more.
Offshore wind and wave energy potentials are commonly simulated by atmosphere and wave stand-alone models, in which the Atmosphere–Wave–Ocean (AWO) dynamical coupling processes are neglected. Based on four experiments (simulated by UU-CM, Uppsala University-Coupled model) with four different coupling configurations between atmosphere, waves, and ocean, we found that the simulations of the wind power density (WPD) and wave potential energy (WPE) are sensitive to the AWO interaction processes over the North and Baltic Seas; in particular, to the atmosphere–ocean coupling processes. Adding all coupling processes can change more than 25% of the WPE but only less than 5% of the WPD in four chosen coastal areas. The impact of the AWO coupling processes on the WPE and WPD changes significantly with the distance off the shoreline, and the influences vary with regions. From the simulations used in this study, we conclude that the AWO coupling processes should be considered in the simulation of WPE and WPD. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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13 pages, 13098 KiB  
Article
Wave-Tracking in the Surf Zone Using Coastal Video Imagery with Deep Neural Networks
by Jinah Kim, Jaeil Kim, Taekyung Kim, Dong Huh and Sofia Caires
Atmosphere 2020, 11(3), 304; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11030304 - 21 Mar 2020
Cited by 14 | Viewed by 5551
Abstract
In this paper, we propose a series of procedures for coastal wave-tracking using coastal video imagery with deep neural networks. It consists of three stages: video enhancement, hydrodynamic scene separation and wave-tracking. First, a generative adversarial network, trained using paired raindrop and clean [...] Read more.
In this paper, we propose a series of procedures for coastal wave-tracking using coastal video imagery with deep neural networks. It consists of three stages: video enhancement, hydrodynamic scene separation and wave-tracking. First, a generative adversarial network, trained using paired raindrop and clean videos, is applied to remove image distortions by raindrops and to restore background information of coastal waves. Next, a hydrodynamic scene of propagated wave information is separated from surrounding environmental information in the enhanced coastal video imagery using a deep autoencoder network. Finally, propagating waves are tracked by registering consecutive images in the quality-enhanced and scene-separated coastal video imagery using a spatial transformer network. The instantaneous wave speed of each individual wave crest and breaker in the video domain is successfully estimated through learning the behavior of transformed and propagated waves in the surf zone using deep neural networks. Since it enables the acquisition of spatio-temporal information of the surf zone though the characterization of wave breakers inclusively wave run-up, we expect that the proposed framework with the deep neural networks leads to improve understanding of nearshore wave dynamics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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22 pages, 12386 KiB  
Article
Offshore-to-Nearshore Transformation of Wave Conditions and Directional Extremes with Application to Port Resonances in the Bay of Sitia-Crete
by Flora Karathanasi, Angeliki Karperaki, Theodoros Gerostathis and Kostas Belibassakis
Atmosphere 2020, 11(3), 280; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11030280 - 12 Mar 2020
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 3090
Abstract
For coastal engineering studies and the efficient design of ports and harbors, reliable information concerning wave conditions in nearshore and coastal sites is needed. In the absence of long-term wave data at the site of interest, this becomes possible by using offshore data, [...] Read more.
For coastal engineering studies and the efficient design of ports and harbors, reliable information concerning wave conditions in nearshore and coastal sites is needed. In the absence of long-term wave data at the site of interest, this becomes possible by using offshore data, which are usually available in the nearby geographical area, in addition to bathymetric and coastline information concerning the nearshore area and the local site. The latter are used in conjunction with a suitable wave model, which calculates the offshore-to-nearshore transformation of wave conditions and incorporates the relevant shallow-water phenomena. In the present work, the above methodology is applied to calculate the nearshore wave conditions in the Bay of Sitia, Crete, by applying the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model. The interesting feature of the Bay of Sitia is its vulnerability due to strong erosion, which downgrades the touristic value of the beach. Furthermore, nearshore wave data offer valuable information concerning further coastal and port engineering studies. In this context, results from directional extreme value analysis of the nearshore wave conditions in the Sitia Bay are derived and used to investigate resonances in the enclosed marina of the Sitia port, by taking into account the depth variations inside the basin. To this end, a novel method was developed based on the modified mild-slope equation, in conjunction with the Finite Element Model, for the solution of the nonlinear eigenvalue problem. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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26 pages, 4194 KiB  
Article
Directional Extreme Value Models in Wave Energy Applications
by Flora Karathanasi, Takvor Soukissian and Kostas Belibassakis
Atmosphere 2020, 11(3), 274; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11030274 - 10 Mar 2020
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2728
Abstract
A wide range of wave energy applications relies on the accurate estimation of extreme wave conditions, while some of them are frequently affected by directionality. For example, attenuators and terminators are the most common types of wave energy converters whose performance is highly [...] Read more.
A wide range of wave energy applications relies on the accurate estimation of extreme wave conditions, while some of them are frequently affected by directionality. For example, attenuators and terminators are the most common types of wave energy converters whose performance is highly influenced by their orientation with respect to the prevailing wave direction. In this work, four locations in the eastern Mediterranean Sea are selected with relatively high wave energy flux values and extreme wave heights are examined with wave direction as a covariate. The Generalized Pareto distribution is used to model the extreme values of wave height over a pre-defined threshold, with its parameters being expressed as a function of wave direction through Fourier series expansion. In order to be consistent with the analysis obtained from the independent fits for directional sectors, the estimation of parameters is based on a penalized maximum likelihood criterion that ensures a good agreement between the two approaches. The obtained results validate the integration of directionality in extreme value models for the examined locations and design values of significant wave height are provided with respect to direction for the 50- and 100-year return period with bootstrap confidence intervals. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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25 pages, 5779 KiB  
Article
Skill Assessment of an Atmosphere–Wave Regional Coupled Model over the East China Sea with a Focus on Typhoons
by Delei Li, Joanna Staneva, Sebastian Grayek, Arno Behrens, Jianlong Feng and Baoshu Yin
Atmosphere 2020, 11(3), 252; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11030252 - 03 Mar 2020
Cited by 10 | Viewed by 3186
Abstract
This study performed several sensitivity experiments to investigate the impact of atmosphere–wave coupling on the simulated wind and waves over the East China Sea (ECS) with a focus on typhoon events. These experiments include stand-alone regional atmosphere model (CCLM) simulations, stand-alone spectral wave [...] Read more.
This study performed several sensitivity experiments to investigate the impact of atmosphere–wave coupling on the simulated wind and waves over the East China Sea (ECS) with a focus on typhoon events. These experiments include stand-alone regional atmosphere model (CCLM) simulations, stand-alone spectral wave model (WAM) simulations driven by the regional atmospheric model CCLM or ERA5 reanalysis, and two-way (CCLM-WAM) coupled simulations. We assessed the simulated wind speed and significant wave height against in situ observations and remote sensing data and focused on typhoon events in 2010. We analyzed the differences between the experiments in capturing the surface pressure, wind speed, and roughness length. Both ERA5 reanalysis data and our regional model simulations demonstrate high quality in capturing wind and wave conditions over the ECS. The results show that downscaled simulations tend to be closer to in situ observations than ERA5 reanalysis data in capturing wind variability and probability distribution, dominant wind and wave directions, strong typhoon intensity and related extreme significant wave height. In comparison with satellite observations, the CCLM-WAM simulation outperforms the CCLM in reducing wind bias. The coupled and uncoupled simulations are very similar in terms of other wind and wave statistics. Though there is much improvement in capturing typhoon intensity to ERA5, regional downscaled simulations still underestimate the wind intensity of tropical cyclones. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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32 pages, 9442 KiB  
Article
Assessment of Extreme and Metocean Conditions in the Swedish Exclusive Economic Zone for Wave Energy
by Erik Nilsson, Linus Wrang, Anna Rutgersson, Adam Dingwell and Erland Strömstedt
Atmosphere 2020, 11(3), 229; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11030229 - 26 Feb 2020
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3856
Abstract
Here, accessibility to near-shore and offshore marine sites is evaluated based on wave and ice conditions. High-resolution third-generation wave model results are used to examine the operation and maintenance conditions for renewable energy sources with a focus on wave energy. Special focus is [...] Read more.
Here, accessibility to near-shore and offshore marine sites is evaluated based on wave and ice conditions. High-resolution third-generation wave model results are used to examine the operation and maintenance conditions for renewable energy sources with a focus on wave energy. Special focus is given to the wave field and ice characteristics for areas within the Swedish Exclusive Economic Zone including analysis of return levels for extreme values for significant wave height, which provides guidance for dimensioning wave energy converters. It is shown that the number of weather windows and accessibility are influenced by distance from the coast and sea-ice conditions. The longest waiting periods for the closest weather window that is available for Operation and Maintenance (O&M) is in ice-free conditions shown to be strongly correlated with the fetch conditions. The sheltered Baltic Sea is shown to have very high accessibility if marine infrastructure and vessels are designed for access limits of significant wave height up to 3 m. In the northern basins, the waiting periods increase significantly, if and when the ice-conditions are found to be critical for the O&M activity considered. The ice-conditions are examined based on compiled operational sea-ice data over a climatic time period of 34 years. The results are location specific for the Swedish Exclusive Economic Zone, but the analysis methods are transferable and applicable to many other parts of the world, to facilitate assessment of the most promising areas in different regions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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20 pages, 20630 KiB  
Article
Characterization of Wind-Sea- and Swell-Induced Wave Energy along the Norwegian Coast
by Konstantinos Christakos, George Varlas, Ioannis Cheliotis, Christos Spyrou, Ole Johan Aarnes and Birgitte Rugaard Furevik
Atmosphere 2020, 11(2), 166; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos11020166 - 05 Feb 2020
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 3849
Abstract
The necessity to reduce C O 2 emissions in combination with the rising energy demand worldwide makes the extensive use of renewable energy sources increasingly important. To that end, countries with long coastlines, such as Norway, can exploit ocean wave energy to produce [...] Read more.
The necessity to reduce C O 2 emissions in combination with the rising energy demand worldwide makes the extensive use of renewable energy sources increasingly important. To that end, countries with long coastlines, such as Norway, can exploit ocean wave energy to produce large amounts of power. In order to facilitate these efforts as well as to provide quantitative data on the wave energy potential of a specific area, it is essential to analyze the weather and climatic conditions detecting any variabilities. The complex physical processes and the atmosphere-wave synergetic effects make the investigation of temporal variability of wave energy a challenging issue. This work aims to shed new light on potential wave energy mapping, presenting a spatio-temporal assessment of swell- and wind-sea-induced energy flux in the Nordic Seas with a focus on the Norwegian coastline using the NORA10 hindcast for the period 1958–2017 (59 years). The results indicate high spatial and seasonal variability of the wave energy flux along the coast. The maximum wave energy flux is observed during winter, while the minimum is observed during summer. The highest coastal wave energy flux is observed in the Norwegian Sea. The majority of areas with dominant swell conditions (i.e., in the Norwegian Sea) are characterized by the highest coastal wave energy flux. The maximum values of wave energy flux in the North Sea are denoted in its northern parts in the intersection with the Norwegian Sea. In contrast to the Norwegian Sea, areas located in the North Sea and the Barents Sea show that wind sea is contributing more than swell to the total wave energy flux. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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27 pages, 4830 KiB  
Article
North Sea Wave Database (NSWD) and the Need for Reliable Resource Data: A 38 Year Database for Metocean and Wave Energy Assessments
by George Lavidas and Henk Polinder
Atmosphere 2019, 10(9), 551; https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos10090551 - 16 Sep 2019
Cited by 17 | Viewed by 4831
Abstract
The study presents a newly generated hindcast database of metocean conditions for the region of the North Sea by parametrising the newly introduced ST6 physics in a nearshore wave model. Exploring and assessing the intricacies in wave generation are vital to produce a [...] Read more.
The study presents a newly generated hindcast database of metocean conditions for the region of the North Sea by parametrising the newly introduced ST6 physics in a nearshore wave model. Exploring and assessing the intricacies in wave generation are vital to produce a reliable hindcast. The new parametrisations perform better, though they have a higher number of tuneable options. Parametrisation of the white capping coefficient within the ST6 package improved performance with significant differences ≈±20–30 cm. The configuration which was selected to build the database shows a good correlation ≈95 % for H m 0, has an overall minimal bias with the majority of locations being slightly over-estimated ±0.5–1 cm. The calibrated model was subsequently used to produce a database for 38 years, analysing and discussing the metocean condition. In terms of wave energy resource, the North Sea has not received attention due to its perceived “lower” resource. However, from analysing the long-term climatic data, it is evident that the level of metocean conditions, and subsequently wave power, can prove beneficial for development. The 95th percentile indicates that the majority of the time H m 0 should be expected at 3.4–5 m, and the wave energy period T e at 5–7 s. Wave power resource exceeds 15 kW/m at locations very close to the coast, and it is uniformly reduced as we move to the Southern parts, near the English Channel, with values there being ≈5 kW/m, with most energetic seas originating from the North East. Results by the analysis show that in the North Sea, conditions are moderate to high, and the wave energy resource, which has been previously overlooked, is high and easily accessible due to the low distance from coasts. The study developed a regional high-fidelity model, analysed metocean parameters and properly assessed the energy content. Although, the database and its results can have multiple usages and benefit other sectors that want to operate in the harsh waters of the North Sea. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Waves and Wave Climate Analysis and Modeling)
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