Applied Sciences

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20 pages, 2265 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Role of Burdock and Black Radish Powders Obtained by Low-Temperature Drying in Emulsion-Type Hair Conditioners

by Małgorzata Zięba, Emilia Klimaszewska, Marta Ogorzałek and Millena Ruszkowska

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(8), 3390; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14083390 - 17 Apr 2024

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The aim of this study was to evaluate the potential role of burdock and black radish powders in emulsion-type hair conditioners. The studied plant powders were obtained by low-temperature drying. This method allows plants to retain many valuable nutrients, including vitamins or phytosterols, [...] Read more.

The aim of this study was to evaluate the potential role of burdock and black radish powders in emulsion-type hair conditioners. The studied plant powders were obtained by low-temperature drying. This method allows plants to retain many valuable nutrients, including vitamins or phytosterols, which have a positive effect on the condition of hair and skin. For the selected plant powders, the content of vitamin C and total polyphenolic content, as well as the degree of reduction of DPPH free radicals, were determined. Burdock and black radish powders proved to contain polyphenolic compounds and exhibited antioxidant activity, which is particularly evident in burdock powder. The plant material under study was also proven to contain vitamin C. The following stage of this study involved designing the formulations and preparing seven hair conditioner emulsions containing different plant-based powders at various concentrations. In the next step, the cosmetic prototypes were evaluated for their physicochemical and functional properties. The hair conditioners were found to have satisfactory functional characteristics, including dynamic viscosity, yield stress, and consistency. Colorimetric analysis showed that an increase in the concentration of burdock and black radish powders obtained by low-temperature drying in hair conditioners resulted in a more saturated color compared to the reference sample. The test results indicated that an increase in the concentration of the plant-derived powders contributes to an increase in the intensity of the yellow color of the samples. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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16 pages, 3933 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Kamchatka Berry (Lonicera caerulea L.) Pomace Bioferment as an Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material

by Weronika Majchrzak, Krzysztof Śmigielski, Ilona Motyl, Joanna Oracz, Karina Skura and Sara Motyl

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(8), 3218; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14083218 - 11 Apr 2024

Viewed by 584

Abstract

Kamchatka berries (Lonicera caerulea L.) are known for their high content of phenolic compounds or vitamins, which is reflected in their antibacterial, detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties. They are used in the production of jams, juices, wines and as natural dye. A bioferment [...] Read more.

Kamchatka berries (Lonicera caerulea L.) are known for their high content of phenolic compounds or vitamins, which is reflected in their antibacterial, detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties. They are used in the production of jams, juices, wines and as natural dye. A bioferment was prepared from the pomace of the Kamchatka berry varieties Aurora and Indigo Gem and the strains Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lacticaseibacillus paracasei, which was used to prepare a cosmetic preparation with a concentration of 5% in accordance with the guidelines of the COSMOS certification body. We conducted physico-chemical and organoleptic analyses and bioactive profile characterisation (UHPLC-DAD and UHPLC-ESI-MS/MS). The results showed that the presence of caffeic acid (4.47 ± 0.07 mg/100 g) was detected after fermentation of Kamchatka berry pomace. In addition, vitamin C content increased by 141% after fermentation. The results of stability tests showed that in the process of physico-chemical analysis of the cosmetic preparation with bioferment of Kamchatka berry pomace, the pH should oscillate in the range of 4.38–4.76 ± 0.01. Stability tests showed that the cosmetic should be protected from high temperatures and UV radiation and proved that the product is stable under changing conditions, resulting in lower transport and storage costs. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 2581 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Efficacy of a Cosmetic Preparation Containing Sheep Colostrum on Mature Skin: A Randomized Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind Study

by Kinga Kazimierska, Anna Erkiert-Polguj and Urszula Kalinowska-Lis

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(7), 2862; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14072862 - 28 Mar 2024

Viewed by 632

Abstract

Colostrum, the first milk produced by mammals, is rich in various bioactive components that provide numerous health benefits to newborns, such as growth factors, hormones, immunoglobulins, cytokines, and enzymes. Topical application of bovine or equine colostrum has been found to improve regeneration, accelerate [...] Read more.

Colostrum, the first milk produced by mammals, is rich in various bioactive components that provide numerous health benefits to newborns, such as growth factors, hormones, immunoglobulins, cytokines, and enzymes. Topical application of bovine or equine colostrum has been found to improve regeneration, accelerate cutaneous wound healing, and have moisturizing, protective, and anti-aging properties. The aim of this study was to examine the effect of a cosmetic preparation containing sheep colostrum on skin with signs of aging in mature women. Fifty-two women, aged 40–70, were randomized into two groups to receive either colostrum or placebo cream. The participants applied the cream for eight weeks. Skin hydration, TEWL, sebum, erythema, and tone were measured using a standardized Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH Multi Probe Adapter; skin elasticity was measured with a cutometer, and images were taken by FotoMedicus. The treatment increased skin moisture, reduced TEWL, and improved skin firmness. These findings were confirmed by the subjective survey. The participants reported, inter alia, improved skin softness and less redness and hypersensitivity. Sheep colostrum cream was more effective at improving skin conditions than placebo cream. Colostrum creams can improve certain aspects of skin quality, especially the hydrolipid barrier, and overall rejuvenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 2423 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural or Synthetic Emollients? Physicochemical Properties of Body Oils in Relation to Selected Parameters of Epidermal Barrier Function

by Marta Ogorzałek, Emilia Klimaszewska, Marek Mirowski, Agnieszka Kulawik-Pióro and Ryszard Tomasiuk

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(7), 2783; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14072783 - 26 Mar 2024

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Abstract

Emollients are valued ingredients of many cosmetic products and medical devices used to support the treatment and prevention of many skin diseases. Despite the fact that they are one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients, raw materials as well as new recipe solutions are [...] Read more.

Emollients are valued ingredients of many cosmetic products and medical devices used to support the treatment and prevention of many skin diseases. Despite the fact that they are one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients, raw materials as well as new recipe solutions are constantly being sought, the main goal of which is to obtain products with the most favorable physicochemical properties while improving the hydration of the stratum corneum and softening and smoothing the skin. It should be noted that there are few scientific articles on the effect of emollients on the physicochemical and usable properties of emollient preparations of the body-oils type. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical tests (dynamic viscosity, surface tension, contact angle, and color evaluation), and the degree of skin hydration and lubrication after application of the developed cosmetic oils was evaluated. Cosmetic oils based on natural emollients were characterized by weaker spreading abilities, which was confirmed by their higher viscosity, surface tension, and contact-angle results relative to those obtained for cosmetic oils based on synthetic emollients. In addition, it was found that the use of both groups of cosmetic oils based on natural and synthetic emollients leads to an increase in the degree of hydration of the skin and an increase in its oiliness. However, a higher increase in the degree of hydration and a lower decrease in the level of skin lubrication are observed after the application of body oils based on natural emollients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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9 pages, 1360 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Assessment of the Impact of a Cosmetic Product with Sheep Colostrum on Acne Skin

by Anna Erkiert-Polguj, Kinga Kazimierska and Urszula Kalinowska-Lis

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(5), 2199; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14052199 - 06 Mar 2024

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Abstract

Colostrum, the first secretion of mammalian breasts after giving birth, contains a wealth of components believed to have a beneficial effect on human skin, including lactoferrin, immunoglobulin (Ig)A, beta-carotene, fat-soluble vitamins, and zinc. The present study examines the effect of a cosmetic preparation [...] Read more.

Colostrum, the first secretion of mammalian breasts after giving birth, contains a wealth of components believed to have a beneficial effect on human skin, including lactoferrin, immunoglobulin (Ig)A, beta-carotene, fat-soluble vitamins, and zinc. The present study examines the effect of a cosmetic preparation containing 15% lyophilisate of sheep colostrum on acne skin. A group of 27 volunteers with mild or moderate acne applied the cream twice a day for eight weeks. Before and after using the cream, the level of skin hydration, sebum level, and TEWL were measured using a standardized Courage–Khazaka Multi Probe Adapter. The participants also completed a survey rating the effects of using the cosmetic preparation. Regular application of the cream with sheep colostrum resulted in an objective improvement in hydration and TEWL and a reduction in sebum; this is extremely desirable for acne-prone skin. Three-quarters of the participants reported that the tested cream reduced acne lesions (blackheads, papules, pustules, and erythema) by around 40%. Moreover, the cosmetic preparation improved hydration by 40% and reduced seborrhea by 29% in 82% of subjects and kept the skin in good condition in 90%. As the cream improves the hydrobarrier and overall condition of the skin, it could serve as an addition to local acne treatment, e.g., with retinoids. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 3709 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Survey of Preservatives Used in Cosmetic Products

by Patrycja Poddębniak and Urszula Kalinowska-Lis

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(4), 1581; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14041581 - 16 Feb 2024

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Abstract

The aim of this study was to indicate the type of preservatives used in selected categories of cosmetic products sold in Poland (part of the EU market) and determine the frequency of their use. The tested products consisted of 200 leave-on cosmetics, viz. [...] Read more.

The aim of this study was to indicate the type of preservatives used in selected categories of cosmetic products sold in Poland (part of the EU market) and determine the frequency of their use. The tested products consisted of 200 leave-on cosmetics, viz. body lotions (n = 100) and face creams (n = 100) and rinse-off cosmetics (n = 100) and mascaras (n = 25). The product labels of 325 adult cosmetic products from international brands were analyzed for the presence of preservatives based on the INCI compositions. The survey focused on preservatives included in Annex V of the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. The tested products contained 29 different preservatives belonging to eight chemical groups. Most preservatives were alcohols or their derivatives, carboxylic acids or their salts, or parabens. The most common types were phenoxyethanol, present in 198/325 (60.9%) formulations, followed by sodium benzoate, in 137 (42.2%), potassium sorbate, in 116 (35.7%), benzyl alcohol, in 76 (23.4%), and methylparaben in 33 (10.2%). Also, 33 of the 60 preservatives included in Annex V of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 were not used in any of the tested preparations. In each category of products, the most common were combinations of two preservatives per single product (34.8% of all products), followed by single-preservative products (25.5%) and three-preservative products (19.4%). Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 2718 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Micellar and Solvent Loan Chemical Extraction as a Tool for the Development of Natural Skin Care Cosmetics Containing Substances Isolated from Grapevine Buds

by Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran, Tomasz Wasilewski, Magdalena Zarębska, Natalia Stanek-Wandzel, Ewa Zajszły-Turko, Magdalena Tomaka and Martyna Zagórska-Dziok

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(4), 1420; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14041420 - 08 Feb 2024

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Abstract

The present study aimed to evaluate the possibility of using micellar and solvent loan chemical extraction (LCE) to isolate valuable components from grapevine leaf buds, subsequently utilizing them to prepare functional and safe-to-use cosmetic preparations, specifically facial serums. An aqueous solution of polyglyceryl-4 [...] Read more.

The present study aimed to evaluate the possibility of using micellar and solvent loan chemical extraction (LCE) to isolate valuable components from grapevine leaf buds, subsequently utilizing them to prepare functional and safe-to-use cosmetic preparations, specifically facial serums. An aqueous solution of polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate and polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate was employed for a micellar LCE, while an aqueous solution of 1,3-propanediol was used for a solvent LCE. Importantly, the extraction medium was exclusively comprised of components from the designed final cosmetic product. Consequently, no additional substances were present in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was notably enhanced by compounds extracted from grapevine buds. The antioxidant properties and compound characterization of the obtained micellar (SurfE) and solvent (SolvE) extracts based on grapevine buds were tested and compared. UPLC-MS/MS results indicated that the extracts were rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, exhibiting antioxidant activity as measured using the DPPH and ABTS scavenging ability. The extracts were used to prepare model facial serums, which underwent evaluation based on fundamental functionality-related parameters (e.g., rheological characteristics and color) and their impact on the skin through cytotoxicity assessment. The results demonstrated that facial serums with extracts based on grapevine buds provided safe, natural cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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22 pages, 8848 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Phytochemical Exploration of Ceruchinol in Moss: A Multidisciplinary Study on Biotechnological Cultivation of Physcomitrium patens (Hedw.) Mitt.

by Carlos Munoz, Kirsten Schröder, Bernhard Henes, Jane Hubert, Sébastien Leblond, Stéphane Poigny, Ralf Reski and Franziska Wandrey

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(3), 1274; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14031274 - 03 Feb 2024

Viewed by 828

Abstract

The moss Physcomitrium patens (P. patens), formerly known as Physcomitrella patens, has ascended to prominence as a pivotal model organism in plant biology. Its simplicity in structure and life cycle, coupled with genetic amenability, has rendered it indispensable in unraveling [...] Read more.

The moss Physcomitrium patens (P. patens), formerly known as Physcomitrella patens, has ascended to prominence as a pivotal model organism in plant biology. Its simplicity in structure and life cycle, coupled with genetic amenability, has rendered it indispensable in unraveling the complexities of land plant evolution and responses to environmental stimuli. As an evolutionary bridge between algae and vascular plants, P. patens offers a unique perspective on early terrestrial adaptation. This research involved the biotechnological cultivation of P. patens, followed by a deep phytochemical investigation of two extracts covering a large polarity range together using an NMR-based dereplication approach combined with GC/MS analyses. Subsequently, a multidisciplinary approach combining bioinformatics, in-silico techniques, and traditional methods was adopted to uncover intriguing molecules such as the diterpene ceruchinol and its potential receptor interactions for future cosmetic applications. The kaurene diterpene ceruchinol, representing up to 50% of the supercritical CO₂ extract and also identified in the hydroalcoholic extract, was selected for the molecular docking study, which highlighted several biological targets as CAR, AKR1D1, and 17β-HSD1 for potential cosmetic use. These findings offer valuable insights for novel uses of this plant biomass in the future. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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18 pages, 1621 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Probiotics-Loaded Microspheres for Cosmetic Applications

by Anna Łętocha, Alicja Michalczyk, Paulina Ostrowska, Małgorzata Miastkowska and Elżbieta Sikora

Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(3), 1183; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14031183 - 31 Jan 2024

Viewed by 1054

Abstract

Probiotic bacteria confer health benefits to their host, support the intestinal microbiome and fight antibiotic resistance. Probiotic products are used in the food and pharmaceutical industries and, in recent years, have become increasingly popular in the cosmetic industry. However, in the case of [...] Read more.

Probiotic bacteria confer health benefits to their host, support the intestinal microbiome and fight antibiotic resistance. Probiotic products are used in the food and pharmaceutical industries and, in recent years, have become increasingly popular in the cosmetic industry. However, in the case of cosmetics, it is difficult to meet microbiological requirements while maintaining viable cells. The aim of this research study was to develop an effective way of introducing live bacteria (a strain of L. casei) into cosmetic formulations. A method of encapsulation of the bacteria was used to increase their viability. As part of the results, the effective carriers for the strain of L. casei are reported. Alginate microspheres were prepared for the systems to protect the microorganisms against external factors, such as temperature, UV light and preservatives. The obtained probiotic-loaded alginate microspheres were then used as the active ingredient of cosmetic formulations. Additionally, a preservative system was carefully selected to ensure the microorganisms’ viability and the microbiological stability of the products. The obtained results showed a significant improvement in the survival of the microencapsulated probiotic strain in the cosmetic formulations containing antimicrobial agents (6.13 log CFU/g after 120 days of storage) compared with the formulation containing the non-immobilised probiotic strain, where complete elimination of bacterial cells was observed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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18 pages, 4164 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Diversity Challenge in Skin Care: Adaptations of a Simple Emulsion for Efficient Moisturization across Multiple Geographies

by Alicia Roso, Catherine Kern, Sophie Cambos and Christine Garcia

Appl. Sci. 2023, 13(24), 13175; https://doi.org/10.3390/app132413175 - 12 Dec 2023

Viewed by 787

Abstract

Moisturization is a primary need in skin care. This study aimed to investigate whether the C12-C20 glucolipid emulsifier could provide minimalist water-in-oil emulsions (i.e., a minimum number of ingredients, in reasonable quantities) with a significant moisturizing effect across multiple geographies even if the [...] Read more.

Moisturization is a primary need in skin care. This study aimed to investigate whether the C12-C20 glucolipid emulsifier could provide minimalist water-in-oil emulsions (i.e., a minimum number of ingredients, in reasonable quantities) with a significant moisturizing effect across multiple geographies even if the emulsion structure needed to be adapted to meet local expectations. Four structures were tested containing a stabilizer and an oily phase that were adapted to address consumers’ skin feel expectations in each location. In vivo corneometry and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were carried out on volunteers with dry skin up to 24 h after application (leg or forearm; phototypes I to VI). The first investigation was completed in France comparing corneometry measurements to the control without the emulsifier and an untreated area. Studies were then performed in Brazil, India and Mauritius, combining corneometry and TEWL assessments. Significant increase in skin capacitance was observed in the four countries, compared to the untreated area, at 5/6/8 h after application and up to 24 h. The effect was also significant versus the control in the French study at 5 h. A significant decrease in TEWL compared to the untreated area was observed concurrently in Brazil, India and Mauritius. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development of Innovative Cosmetics)

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