Sustainability

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3 pages, 173 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling

by Hanna de la Motte and Asa Ostlund

Sustainability 2022, 14(22), 14903; https://doi.org/10.3390/su142214903 - 11 Nov 2022

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2600

Abstract

The clothing and textile industry is a resource-intensive industry, and accounts for 3 to 10 percent of global carbon dioxide emissions [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

Research

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0 pages, 75699 KiB

Open AccessArticle

RETRACTED: Investigation of the Physical Properties of Yarn Produced from Textile Waste by Optimizing Their Proportions

by Hafeezullah Memon, Henock Solomon Ayele, Hanur Meku Yesuf and Li Sun

Sustainability 2022, 14(15), 9453; https://doi.org/10.3390/su14159453 - 2 Aug 2022

Cited by 13 | Viewed by 3526 | Retraction

Abstract

Since textile waste recycling is a global challenge, there is an emerging need to explore this research direction due to the little knowledge about textile recycling. This study aimed to study the property of yarns produced from recycled textile/cotton fiber blends for proportion [...] Read more.

Since textile waste recycling is a global challenge, there is an emerging need to explore this research direction due to the little knowledge about textile recycling. This study aimed to study the property of yarns produced from recycled textile/cotton fiber blends for proportion optimization and to check whether they can be used for denim fabric production. The properties of recycled fiber and virgin cotton spun on open-end having 4.5 Ne were investigated with fiber proportions of 20/80, 25/75, 30/70, 35/65, 40/60, 45/55, and 50/50. The results were analyzed with Design-Expert software, using central composite design to optimize the proportion. The 40/60 proportion had the optimum result, and by using this optimized proportion, 10 Ne yarn was produced and used for denim fabric production. The sample denim fabric produced used recycled yarn as a weft, showing that the recycled fiber turned yarn can be used in manufacturing products such as denim. The physical properties of the denim fabric confirmed that the recycled goods have wearable quality. Since this research can be applied on an industrial scale, it would benefit textile academia, industry, the environment, and society. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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16 pages, 2956 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chemical Recycling of a Textile Blend from Polyester and Viscose, Part I: Process Description, Characterization, and Utilization of the Recycled Cellulose

by Anna Peterson, Johan Wallinder, Jenny Bengtsson, Alexander Idström, Marta Bialik, Kerstin Jedvert and Hanna de la Motte

Sustainability 2022, 14(12), 7272; https://doi.org/10.3390/su14127272 - 14 Jun 2022

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 3354

Abstract

Material recycling requires solutions that are technically, as well as economically and ecologically, viable. In this work, the technical feasibility to separate textile blends of viscose and polyester using alkaline hydrolysis is demonstrated. Polyester is depolymerized into the monomer terephthalic acid at high [...] Read more.

Material recycling requires solutions that are technically, as well as economically and ecologically, viable. In this work, the technical feasibility to separate textile blends of viscose and polyester using alkaline hydrolysis is demonstrated. Polyester is depolymerized into the monomer terephthalic acid at high yields, while viscose is recovered in a polymeric form. After the alkaline treatment, the intrinsic viscosity of cellulose is decreased by up to 35%, which means it may not be suitable for conventional fiber-to-fiber recycling; however, it might be attractive in other technologies, such as emerging fiber processes, or as raw material for sugar platforms. Further, we present an upscaled industrial process layout, which is used to pinpoint the areas of the proposed process that require further optimization. The NaOH economy is identified as the key to an economically viable process, and several recommendations are given to decrease the consumption of NaOH. To further enhance the ecological end economic feasibility of the process, an increased hydrolysis rate and integration with a pulp mill are suggested. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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10 pages, 1867 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chemical Recycling of a Textile Blend from Polyester and Viscose, Part II: Mechanism and Reactivity during Alkaline Hydrolysis of Textile Polyester

by Jenny Bengtsson, Anna Peterson, Alexander Idström, Hanna de la Motte and Kerstin Jedvert

Sustainability 2022, 14(11), 6911; https://doi.org/10.3390/su14116911 - 6 Jun 2022

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 3934

Abstract

Chemical recycling of textiles holds the potential to yield materials of equal quality and value as products from virgin feedstock. Selective depolymerization of textile polyester (PET) from regenerated cellulose/PET blends, by means of alkaline hydrolysis, renders the monomers of PET while cellulose remains [...] Read more.

Chemical recycling of textiles holds the potential to yield materials of equal quality and value as products from virgin feedstock. Selective depolymerization of textile polyester (PET) from regenerated cellulose/PET blends, by means of alkaline hydrolysis, renders the monomers of PET while cellulose remains in fiber form. Here, we present the mechanism and reactivity of textile PET during alkaline hydrolysis. Part I of this article series focuses on the cellulose part and a possible industrialization of such a process. The kinetics and reaction mechanism for alkaline hydrolysis of polyester packaging materials or virgin bulk polyester are well described in the scientific literature; however, information on depolymerization of PET from textiles is sparse. We find that the reaction rate of hydrolysis is not affected by disintegrating the fabric to increase its surface area. We ascribe this to the yarn structure, where texturing and a low density assures a high accessibility even without disintegration. The reaction, similar to bulk polyester, is shown to be surface specific and proceeds via endwise peeling. Finally, we show that the reaction product terephthalic acid is pure and obtained in high yields. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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13 pages, 2366 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Three-Dimensional Printing Fashion Product Design with Emotional Durability Based on Korean Aesthetics

by Seonju Kam

Sustainability 2022, 14(1), 240; https://doi.org/10.3390/su14010240 - 27 Dec 2021

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3312

Abstract

Given the potentially significant environmental impacts of fashion design, various design approaches are required to extend product lifespan. Digital design methods may play an essential role in reducing the environmental impact of products and production processes. In addition, a design approach inspired by [...] Read more.

Given the potentially significant environmental impacts of fashion design, various design approaches are required to extend product lifespan. Digital design methods may play an essential role in reducing the environmental impact of products and production processes. In addition, a design approach inspired by nature, where humans have long lived, is valid for sustainable design innovation. The purpose of this study is to examine the aesthetics of Koreans, who prefer nature, and to find a sustainable fashion design approach by using it as a knowledge database. In this study, a parametric design methodology that can reflect knowledge-based data in the process of producing 3D printing sustainable fashion products, considering the emotional durability of consumers, was used. The study results are as follows. From the aesthetic point of view of Korea, sustainable design characteristics represent unique Korean folk art, resilience to nature, and simplicity that resembles nature. The properties of the form represented to “forms resembling nature”, “changeable forms”, “organic forms”, and “minimal forms”. Materials were “nature inspired textures”, “rustic natural materials”, and “regional materials”. Colors were “the colors of nature” and “indigenous colors”. The parametric controls variables used for 3D printing the fashion products were size, assembly style, and sustainable material. These control parameters were used to create designs according to the individual taste of users. In the 3D printing fashion product design process, pieces were printed in different shapes and sizes by controlling the parameters to create designs according to users’ tastes and Korean aesthetics. It was determined that this process could extend the lifespan of products, and that it is possible to modify sustainable fashion products according to personal taste by adjusting numerical values and extracting visual images based on knowledge of art and culture. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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30 pages, 5431 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Delphi-Régnier Study Addressing the Challenges of Textile Recycling in Europe for the Fashion and Apparel Industry

by Joséphine Riemens, Andrée-Anne Lemieux, Samir Lamouri and Léonore Garnier

Sustainability 2021, 13(21), 11700; https://doi.org/10.3390/su132111700 - 22 Oct 2021

Cited by 14 | Viewed by 5381

Abstract

The increasing resource pressure and the expanding amount of textile waste have been rising recycling as a clear priority for the fashion and apparel industry. However, textile recycling remains limited and is therefore a targeted issue in the forthcoming EU policies. As the [...] Read more.

The increasing resource pressure and the expanding amount of textile waste have been rising recycling as a clear priority for the fashion and apparel industry. However, textile recycling remains limited and is therefore a targeted issue in the forthcoming EU policies. As the fashion industry is embedded in complex value chains, enhancing textile recycling entails a comprehensive understanding of the existing challenges. Yet, the literature review suggests only limited empirical studies in the sector, and a dedicated state-of-the-art is still lacking. Filling this gap, a Delphi study was conducted supplemented by the Regnier’s Abacus technique. Through an iterative, anonymous, and controlled feedback process, the obstacles collected from the extant literature were collectively discussed with a representative panel of 28 experts, compared to the situation in Europe. After two rounds, the lack of eco-design practices, the absence of incentive policies, and the lack of available and accurate information on the product components emerged as the most consensual statements. Linking theory to practice, this paper aims to improve consistency in the understanding of the current state of textile recycling in Europe, while providing an encompassing outline of the current experts’ opinion on the priority challenges for the sector. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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17 pages, 8026 KiB

Open AccessEditor’s ChoiceArticle

Textiles for Circular Fashion: The Logic behind Recycling Options

by Paulien Harmsen, Michiel Scheffer and Harriette Bos

Sustainability 2021, 13(17), 9714; https://doi.org/10.3390/su13179714 - 30 Aug 2021

Cited by 51 | Viewed by 17540

Abstract

For the textile industry to become sustainable, knowledge of the origin and production of resources is an important theme. It is expected that recycled feedstock will form a significant part of future resources to be used. Textile recycling (especially post-consumer waste) is still [...] Read more.

For the textile industry to become sustainable, knowledge of the origin and production of resources is an important theme. It is expected that recycled feedstock will form a significant part of future resources to be used. Textile recycling (especially post-consumer waste) is still in its infancy and will be a major challenge in the coming years. Three fundamental problems hamper a better understanding of the developments on textile recycling: the current classification of textile fibres (natural or manufactured) does not support textile recycling, there is no standard definition of textile recycling technologies, and there is a lack of clear communication about the technological progress (by industry and brands) and benefits of textile recycling from a consumer perspective. This may hamper the much-needed further development of textile recycling. This paper presents a new fibre classification based on chemical groups and bonds that form the backbone of the polymers of which the fibres are made and that impart characteristic properties to the fibres. In addition, a new classification of textile recycling was designed based on the polymer structure of the fibres. These methods make it possible to unravel the logic and preferred recycling routes for different fibres, thereby facilitating communication on recycling. We concluded that there are good recycling options for mono-material streams within the cellulose, polyamide and polyester groups. For blended textiles, the perspective is promising for fibre blends within a single polymer group, while combinations of different polymers may pose problems in recycling. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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23 pages, 905 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Life Cycle Based Comparison of Textile Ecolabels

by Felice Diekel, Natalia Mikosch, Vanessa Bach and Matthias Finkbeiner

Sustainability 2021, 13(4), 1751; https://doi.org/10.3390/su13041751 - 6 Feb 2021

Cited by 11 | Viewed by 5296

Abstract

Environmental impacts of textile production increased over the last decades. This also led to an increasing demand for sustainable textiles and ecolabels, which intend to provide information on environmental aspects of textiles for the consumer. The goal of the paper is to assess [...] Read more.

Environmental impacts of textile production increased over the last decades. This also led to an increasing demand for sustainable textiles and ecolabels, which intend to provide information on environmental aspects of textiles for the consumer. The goal of the paper is to assess selected labels with regard to their strengths and weaknesses, as well as their coverage of relevant environmental aspects over the life cycle of textiles. We applied a characterization scheme to analyse seven selected labels (Blue Angel Textiles, bluesign^®, Cotton made in Africa (CMiA), Cradle to Cradle Certified^TM, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS), VAUDE Green Shape), and compared their focus to the environmental hotpots identified in the product environmental footprint case study of t-shirts. Most labels focus on the environmental aspects toxicity, water use, and air emissions predominantly in the upstream life cycle phases of textiles (mainly garment production), whereas some relevant impacts and life cycle phases like water in textile use phase remain neglected. We found significant differences between the ecolabels, and none of them cover all relevant aspects and impacts over the life cycle. Consumers need to be aware of these limitations when making purchase decisions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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17 pages, 54160 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Material-Driven Textile Design (MDTD): A Methodology for Designing Circular Material-Driven Fabrication and Finishing Processes in the Materials Science Laboratory

by Miriam Ribul, Kate Goldsworthy and Carole Collet

Sustainability 2021, 13(3), 1268; https://doi.org/10.3390/su13031268 - 26 Jan 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 4744

Abstract

In the context of the circular economy, materials in scientific development present opportunities for material design processes that begin at a raw state, before being introduced into established processes and applications. The common separation of the scientific development of materials from design intervention [...] Read more.

In the context of the circular economy, materials in scientific development present opportunities for material design processes that begin at a raw state, before being introduced into established processes and applications. The common separation of the scientific development of materials from design intervention results in a lack of methodological approaches enabling designers to inform new processes that respond to new material properties. This paper presents the results of a PhD investigation that led to the development and application of a Material-Driven Textile Design (MDTD) methodology for design research based in the materials science laboratory. It also presents the development of the fabrication of a textile composite with regenerated cellulose obtained from waste textiles, resulting from the MDTD methodology informing novel textile processes. The methods and practice which make up this methodology include distinct phases of exploration, translation and activation, and were developed via three design-led research residencies in materials science laboratories in Europe. The MDTD methodology proposes an approach to design research in a scientific setting that is decoupled from a specific product or application in order to lift disciplinary boundaries for the development of circular material-driven fabrication and finishing processes at the intersection of materials science and design. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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12 pages, 1362 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Environmental Profile Study of Ozone Decolorization of Reactive Dyed Cotton Textiles by Utilizing Life Cycle Assessment

by Ajinkya Powar, Anne Perwuelz, Nemeshwaree Behary, Le Vinh Hoang, Thierry Aussenac, Carmen Loghin, Stelian Sergiu Maier, Jinping Guan and Guoqiang Chen

Sustainability 2021, 13(3), 1225; https://doi.org/10.3390/su13031225 - 25 Jan 2021

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 2418

Abstract

Research approaches on the use of ecotechnologies like ozone assisted processes for the decolorization of textiles are being explored as against the conventional alkaline reductive process for the color stripping of the cotton textiles. The evaluation of these ecotechnologies must be performed to [...] Read more.

Research approaches on the use of ecotechnologies like ozone assisted processes for the decolorization of textiles are being explored as against the conventional alkaline reductive process for the color stripping of the cotton textiles. The evaluation of these ecotechnologies must be performed to assess the environmental impacts. Partial “gate to gate” Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) was implemented to study the ozone based decolorization process of the reactive dyed cotton textiles. Experiments were performed to determine input and output data flows for decolorization treatment of reactive dyed cotton textile using the ozonation process. The functional unit was defined as “treatment of 40 g of reactive dyed cotton fabric to achieve more than 94% color stripping”. Generic and specific data bases were also used to determine flows, and International Life Cycle Data system (ILCD) method was selected to convert all flows into environmental impacts. The impact category “Water resource depletion” is the highest for all the ozonation processes as it has the greatest relative value after normalization amongst all the impact indicators. Electricity and Oxygen formation were found to be the major contributors to the environmental impacts. New experimental conditions have been studied to optimize the impacts. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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13 pages, 4565 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Improving Mechanical Textile Recycling by Lubricant Pre-Treatment to Mitigate Length Loss of Fibers

by Katarina Lindström, Therese Sjöblom, Anders Persson and Nawar Kadi

Sustainability 2020, 12(20), 8706; https://doi.org/10.3390/su12208706 - 20 Oct 2020

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 4630

Abstract

Although there has been some research on how to use short fibers from mechanically recycled textiles, little is known about how to preserve the length of recycled fibers, and thus maintain their properties. The aim of this study is to investigate whether a [...] Read more.

Although there has been some research on how to use short fibers from mechanically recycled textiles, little is known about how to preserve the length of recycled fibers, and thus maintain their properties. The aim of this study is to investigate whether a pre-treatment with lubricant could mitigate fiber length reduction from tearing. This could facilitate the spinning of a 100% recycled yarn. Additionally, this study set out to develop a new test method to assess the effect of lubricant loading. Inter-fiber cohesion was measured in a tensile tester on carded fiber webs. We used polyethylene glycol (PEG) 4000 aqueous solution as a lubricant to treat fibers and woven fabrics of cotton, polyester (PES), and cotton/polyester. Measurements of fiber length and percentage of unopened material showed the harshness and efficiency of the tearing process. Treatment with PEG 4000 decreased inter-fiber cohesion, reduced fiber length loss, and facilitated a more efficient tearing process, especially for PES. The study showed that treating fabric with PEG enabled rotor spinning of 100% recycled fibers. The inter-fiber cohesion test method suggested appropriate lubricant loadings, which were shown to mitigate tearing harshness and facilitate fabric disintegration in recycling. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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Review

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21 pages, 3953 KiB

Open AccessReview

Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre

by Hannah Auerbach George, Marie Stenton, Veronika Kapsali, Richard S. Blackburn and Joseph A. Houghton

Sustainability 2022, 14(14), 8414; https://doi.org/10.3390/su14148414 - 9 Jul 2022

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2843

Abstract

We are currently experiencing a global environmental crisis. Our waste culture is leading to huge irreversible damage to our planet and ecosystems. This is particularly evident in both the textile and food sectors, with a system-wide restructuring as to how we consume and [...] Read more.

We are currently experiencing a global environmental crisis. Our waste culture is leading to huge irreversible damage to our planet and ecosystems. This is particularly evident in both the textile and food sectors, with a system-wide restructuring as to how we consume and source materials becoming ever more urgent. By considering our waste as resource, we can access a vast source of raw materials that is now being recognised as such. Viable materials in the form of waste have the potential for conversion into textiles. However, this proposed solution to our contemporary crisis is not new technology. Throughout the 20th century, science and industry have researched and developed materials from food waste to meet global demand for textiles in times of need, with a major development during the world wars being the invention of regenerated protein fibres (RPFs). For various reasons, this research was abandoned, but much of the development work remains valid. This research critically analyses work that has previously been done in the sector to better our understanding of the historical hindrances to the progression of this technology. By applying modern thinking and scientific advances to historical challenges, there is the potential to overcome previous barriers to utilising food waste as a resource. One of the key influences in the discontinuation of RPFs was the rise of petrochemical textiles. Our current understanding of the detriment caused by petrochemicals warrants a further review of historical emergent technologies. This paper uses Ardil fibre as a case study, and shows that there is a clear disparity between the location of historic research and where the research would now be helpful. Ardil was a British-made product, using peanuts sourced from the British Empire as the source of protein. Techniques used in the processing of Ardil could be better utilised by countries and climates currently producing large amounts of peanut byproducts and waste. Through this research, another historical concern that thwarted Ardil’s acceptance as a mainstream fibre was discovered to be its poor tensile strength. However, contemporary garment life cycles are far shorter than historical ones, with built-in obsolescence now being considered as a solution to fast fashion cycles by matching the longevity of the fibre to the expected use phase of the garment, but ensuring suitable disposal methods, such as composting. This research highlights the need for cross-disciplinary collaboration between sectors, with a specific focus on the wealth of valuable information available within historical archives for modern sustainability goals. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling)

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