Advances in the Study of Coastal Resilience, Hydrodynamic Modelling and Coastal Monitoring

A special issue of Water (ISSN 2073-4441). This special issue belongs to the section "Oceans and Coastal Zones".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 January 2021) | Viewed by 18272

Special Issue Editor


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Guest Editor
University of Liverpool, UK
Interests: hydrodynamic; coastal processes; geomorphology; numerical modelling; nature-based solutions.

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Around 10% of the world’s population lives along coastal areas that are less than 10 meters above sea level. Coastal areas also provide crucial ecosystem services and are the natural habitat of many natural species. These precious ecosystems are currently at risk from environmental change and human pressure on the coastal zone. Recent scientific advances in the study of coastal areas, and technical advances in the development of computer modelling, field monitoring and remote sensing techniques, have improved our understanding of coastal processes under a changing environment. Interdisciplinary studies have also made significant contributions to our understanding of interactions between the human and physical dimension.

Investigating the response of coastal areas to environmental stressors from a multidisciplinary viewpoint and the development of new numerical modelling and monitoring techniques is of crucial importance for the conservation of these ecosystems and their correct management.

The aim of this Special Issue is to collect contributions that discuss coastal resilience and methodological and multi-disciplinary approaches to studying regional and local coastal areas in relation to climate change, advances in computational tools and human impact.

Themes of this Special Issue can include, but are not limited to, the following:

  • response of coastal areas to environmental change;
  • ecosystem services and coastal areas;
  • advances in hydrodynamic, sediment transport and morphological modelling for coastal areas;
  • advances in field methodologies and applications for coastal studies;
  • advances in the modelling and monitoring of the impact of vegetation on coastal areas;
  • coastal processes and coastal geomorphology;
  • nature-based solutions as coastal defences;
  • coastal eco-geomorphology;
  • advances in the study of coastal pollution and its impact;
  • coastal management interventions and coastal landscaping; and
  • interaction between the human and natural coastal landscape.

Dr. Nicoletta Leonardi
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

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Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • hydrodynamic
  • morphology
  • coastal management
  • human–landscape interactions
  • numerical modelling
  • coastal monitoring
  • coastal ecosystems
  • ecosystem services.

Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

14 pages, 29092 KiB  
Article
Assessing the Effectiveness of Nourishment in Decadal Barrier Island Morphological Resilience
by Davina L. Passeri, Matthew V. Bilskie, Scott C. Hagen, Rangley C. Mickey, P. Soupy Dalyander and Victor M. Gonzalez
Water 2021, 13(7), 944; https://doi.org/10.3390/w13070944 - 30 Mar 2021
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 3196
Abstract
Nourishment has shown to be an effective method for short-term storm protection along barrier islands and sandy beaches by reducing flooding, wave attack and erosion. However, the ability of nourishment to mitigate the effects of storms and sea level rise (SLR) and improve [...] Read more.
Nourishment has shown to be an effective method for short-term storm protection along barrier islands and sandy beaches by reducing flooding, wave attack and erosion. However, the ability of nourishment to mitigate the effects of storms and sea level rise (SLR) and improve coastal resilience over decadal time scales is not well understood. This study uses integrated models of storm-driven hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and post-storm dune recovery to assess the effectiveness of beach and dune nourishment on barrier island morphological resilience over a 30-year period, accounting for storms and a moderate amount of SLR. Results show that at the end of the 30 years, nourishment contributes to maintaining island volumes by increasing barrier height and width compared with a no-action scenario (i.e., no nourishment, only natural recovery). During storms where the collision regime was dominant, higher volumes of sand were lost from the wider beach in the nourishment scenario than in the no-action scenario. During stronger storms, nourishment reduced dune overtopping compared with the no-action scenario, allowing the island to maintain height and width. Additionally, nourishment was particularly effective in reducing breaching during back-to-back storms occurring in the same year. Full article
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26 pages, 11222 KiB  
Article
Parametric Modeling of Depth-Limited Wave Spectra under Hurricane Conditions with Applications to Kinetic Umbrellas against Storm Surge Inundation
by Shengzhe Wang, Maria Garlock and Branko Glisic
Water 2021, 13(3), 251; https://doi.org/10.3390/w13030251 - 20 Jan 2021
Cited by 8 | Viewed by 2515
Abstract
This paper presents a simplified parametric model for the estimation of depth-limited hurricane wave spectra, accounting for swell and wind-sea components, for coastal engineering applications. The model was evaluated against observations obtained from three shallow water sites in Florida during Hurricane David in [...] Read more.
This paper presents a simplified parametric model for the estimation of depth-limited hurricane wave spectra, accounting for swell and wind-sea components, for coastal engineering applications. The model was evaluated against observations obtained from three shallow water sites in Florida during Hurricane David in September 1979. It was revealed that the parametric approach increases in accuracy with decreasing distance to the storm center and generally provides a conservative representation of the significant wave height, albeit overestimating the peak wave frequency. The model was subsequently adopted to evaluate the performance of tilted hyperbolic paraboloidal (hypar) shells (referred to as “kinetic umbrellas”) as an adaptable alternative to conventional floodwalls via smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH). The introduction of hypar geometry proved superior to conventional sloped barriers in reducing overtopping waves but decreases in effectiveness at levels of inundation greater than two-thirds the deployed height. Furthermore, umbrellas exhibiting larger geometrical warping were more capable at suppressing overtopping but must sustain larger base shear forces when subjected to irregular waves consistent with landfalling hurricanes. Full article
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12 pages, 4250 KiB  
Article
A Case Study on the Variability of Summer Water Properties in the Southeastern Yellow Sea Based on the Hydrological Data from 1995 to 2019
by Lei Wu and Bin Wang
Water 2021, 13(1), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/w13010079 - 31 Dec 2020
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1851
Abstract
The long-term variability of the summer water properties in the southeastern Yellow Sea is described using the hydrological data. The results indicate warming trend in the upper layer and cooling trend in the deeper layer resulting in a strengthen thermocline. While, the mean [...] Read more.
The long-term variability of the summer water properties in the southeastern Yellow Sea is described using the hydrological data. The results indicate warming trend in the upper layer and cooling trend in the deeper layer resulting in a strengthen thermocline. While, the mean and the core temperatures in the southeastern Yellow Sea Cold Water Mass both tend to rise slowly, which are previously thought to be fallen. At the deep layer (below 30 m depth), the temperature cooling trend in summer is even stronger than that in winter, which contradict to the stronger surface heat flux in summer. This study proposes that the strengthen thermocline during warming seasons (spring and summer) prevents the heat transferring from surface to the deep layer across isopycnal lines. Furthermore, combined with the metrological data, the strengthen thermocline induces stronger southward tidal residual current at the deep layer, which facilitates the enhanced complementary wind-driven current induced by the southerly monsoon. Thus, the southward tidal induced residual current effectively contributes to the southward motion of the colder water from the northern area. The declined trending of salinity due to the increase of the Changjiang River discharge can be conducive to the strengthen summer thermocline. Full article
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25 pages, 9837 KiB  
Article
Natural vs. Anthropic Influence on the Multidecadal Shoreline Changes of Mediterranean Urban Beaches: Lessons from the Gulf of Cagliari (Sardinia)
by Manuela Biondo, Carla Buosi, Daniele Trogu, Hannah Mansfield, Matteo Vacchi, Angelo Ibba, Marco Porta, Andrea Ruju and Sandro De Muro
Water 2020, 12(12), 3578; https://doi.org/10.3390/w12123578 - 20 Dec 2020
Cited by 10 | Viewed by 3883
Abstract
Urban Mediterranean beaches are often characterized by a fragile and unstable equilibrium that can be easily altered by ongoing climate change and by the increase in human pressure. This may pose serious threats to the survival of beach systems that cannot accommodate these [...] Read more.
Urban Mediterranean beaches are often characterized by a fragile and unstable equilibrium that can be easily altered by ongoing climate change and by the increase in human pressure. This may pose serious threats to the survival of beach systems that cannot accommodate these modifications. In this paper, the spatio-temporal shift of the shoreline was investigated along two urban beaches in the Gulf of Cagliari (Poetto and Giorgino; southern Sardinia, western Mediterranean Sea) across a time frame of 62 years (1954–2016). The Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) ArcGIS™ extension was used to extract different statistical parameters which allowed us to quantify the erosion and accretion rates. These data were further examined in relation to a number of anthropic and natural forcings in order to disentangle the factors controlling shoreline evolution. Eight sectors with interchanging net erosive and accretion trends were identified along the Poetto and Giorgino beaches. In six decades, some sectors of the two study sites appeared to have undergone great shoreline modification as a result of the intense anthropogenic activities impacting these coastal areas. The westernmost portions of both beaches were found to be the most vulnerable to erosion processes; such conditions were likely controlled by the interplaying of local hydrodynamics and by the intense coastal development which affected these sectors. The highest retreat rates (mean end point rate (EPR) = −0.51/year) were recorded in the western limit of Giorgino beach. Along the western limit of Poetto beach, EPR erosion rates (mean EPR = −2.92/year) considerably increased in the years after the artificial beach nourishment carried out in 2002, suggesting that the majority of the nourished material was lost offshore or partly redistributed along the beach. Coastal structures, urban development, river catchment modification, industrial and port activities, beach cleaning and touristic and recreational activities have been identified as the ongoing causes of coastal alteration. If these factors remain constant, under projected climate change scenarios, these beaches are at risk of further increased flooding and erosion. In this context, the application of DSAS appeared as an essential tool, supporting a monitoring system able to provide understanding and, potentially, predictions of the short- to long-term evolution of these beach systems. Full article
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18 pages, 8658 KiB  
Article
The Impact of Submerged Breakwaters on Sediment Distribution along Marsh Boundaries
by Iacopo Vona, Matthew W. Gray and William Nardin
Water 2020, 12(4), 1016; https://doi.org/10.3390/w12041016 - 02 Apr 2020
Cited by 28 | Viewed by 6120
Abstract
Human encroachment and development on coastlines have led to greater amounts of armoring of shorelines. Breakwaters are a common feature along coastlines, which are used to dampen wave energy and protect shorelines from flash floods or overwash events. Although common, their effects on [...] Read more.
Human encroachment and development on coastlines have led to greater amounts of armoring of shorelines. Breakwaters are a common feature along coastlines, which are used to dampen wave energy and protect shorelines from flash floods or overwash events. Although common, their effects on sediment transport and marsh geomorphology are poorly understood. To address this gap, our study quantifies the effects of breakwaters on sediment transport and marsh evolution under different wave regimes using Delft3D-SWAN, a dynamic geomorphodynamic numerical model. Model configurations used the same numerical domain, but scenarios had different sediments, waves, tides, basin slopes and breakwater distances from the shoreline to explore how waves and tidal currents shape coastal margins. Model results suggested breakwaters were responsible for an average wave damping between 10–50%, proportional to the significant wave height across all modeled scenarios. Shear stress at the beginning of the marsh and the volume of sediment deposited at the end of the simulation (into the marsh behind the breakwater) increased on average between 20–40%, proportional to the slope and distance of the breakwater from the shoreline. Sediment trapping, defined as the ratio between the volume of sediment housed into the salt marsh behind and away from the breakwater, was found to be less than 1 from most model runs. Study results indicated that breakwaters are advantageous for wave breaking to protect shorelines from the wave’s energy, however, they might also be an obstacle for sediment transport, negatively affecting nourishment processes, and, consequently, impeded long-term salt marsh survival. Identifying a balance between waves dampening and shoreline nourishment should be considered in the design and implementation of these structures. Full article
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