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Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications

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A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Natural Products Chemistry".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 December 2023) | Viewed by 22058

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Prof. Dr. Jing Wang

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Guest Editor

School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: extraction and separation of bioactive substances
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Dr. Kuan Chang

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Guest Editor

School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: nanoencapsulation of bioactive ingredients; smart nanocarriers
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Prof. Dr. Cheng Yang

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Guest Editor

School of Chemical and Materials Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: cosmetics formulation and process; novel cosmetics delivery system

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

In recent years, while “beauty” is still the main term that comes to mind when we think about cosmetic products, an increasing number of consumers expect to find “sustainable” and “environmentally friendly” qualities in cosmetics. This global market trend has driven the cosmetic industry to invest in the development of innovative products containing natural components and biomolecules.

For this Special Issue, we invite researchers to provide original research articles that report on the development and production of novel plant extracts, natural compounds, products from microorganisms, or substances derived from these sources for potential cosmetic applications. We also invite the submission of biological properties and clinical studies demonstrating skin or hair-care applications and related molecule mechanisms of these natural products and biomolecules. Review articles discussing the current state of the art in the field of natural products and biomolecules for cosmetic applications are also welcome.

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang
Dr. Kuan Chang
Prof. Dr. Cheng Yang
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Molecules is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2700 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

plant extracts
natural compounds
biotech-derived molecules
natural-derived molecules
fermentation ingredients
biological activity
cosmetics
skin care
hair care

Published Papers (9 papers)

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Research

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16 pages, 1595 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics—An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study

by Karolina Jakubczyk, Anna Nowak, Anna Muzykiewicz-Szymańska, Łukasz Kucharski, Kinga Szymczykowska and Katarzyna Janda-Milczarek

Molecules 2024, 29(5), 1018; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29051018 - 26 Feb 2024

Viewed by 775

Abstract

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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13 pages, 905 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Simultaneous Extraction of Oil and Protein from Silkworm (Bombyx mori L.) Pupae (Lueng Parroj var.) and Their In Vitro Skin Moisturization

by Pannarasi Susirirut, Natthawut Thitipramote and Phanuphong Chaiwut

Molecules 2023, 28(20), 7032; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28207032 - 11 Oct 2023

Viewed by 1030

Abstract

Oil and protein from silkworm (Bombyx mori var. Leung Pairoj) pupae, by-product from sericulture, were extracted and evaluated for their potential uses as skin biomoisturizer. The silkworm pupae (SWP) oil and protein were simultaneously extracted by using three-phase partitioning (TPP) method and determined for their physicochemical properties including fatty acid and amino acid content, respectively. The highest yields of oil and protein at 8.24 ± 0.21% and 8.41 ± 0.26% w/w, respectively were obtained from 18 h extraction. Fatty acid analysis of SWP oil was rich in linolenic acid (37.81 ± 0.34%), oleic acid (28.97 ± 0.13%), palmitic acid (21.27 ± 0.05%), stearic acid (6.60 ± 0.09%) and linoleic acid (4.73 ± 0.21%). The clear yellow SWP oil possessed saponification value of 191.51 mg/g, iodine value of 119.37 g I₂/g and peroxide value of 2.00 mg equivalent O₂/kg. The SWP protein composed of 17 amino acids which aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine and serine were the major residues. SDS-PAGE analysis revealed that the SWP protein consisted of distinct protein at around 51, 70, 175 and over 175 kDa. Cytotoxicity of the SWP oil and protein was evaluated by using MTT assay and they showed low cytotoxicity toward keratinocyte cell (HaCat cell line). The SWP oil provided moisturizing effect on pig skin comparable to olive oil, while 1% and 2% of SWP protein showed higher moisturizing efficacy than 3% hydrolyzed collagen. The study indicated that the SWP oil and protein could be potential biomoisturizers for cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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11 pages, 1870 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating the Application Potential of a Recombinant Ganoderma Protein as Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetics

by Zhi-Jian Guo, Yan Liu, Jia-Yi Yang, Meng-Yuan Jin, Pei-Wen Mao and Xuan-Wei Zhou

Molecules 2023, 28(7), 3272; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28073272 - 06 Apr 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1672

Abstract

The aim of this study was to evaluate the application potential of a recombinant fungal immunomodulatory protein from Ganoderma lucidum (rFIP-glu). First, a recombinant plasmid pPIC9K::FIP-glu-His was transferred into Pichia pastoris for the production of protein. The protein was then to assess its free radical scavenging abilities and the effect on the viability of both human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and mouse B16-F10 melanoma cells (B16 cells) in vitro, followed by the effect on the melanin synthesis of B16 cells. The results of SDS-PAGE and western blot showed that rFIP-glu was successfully expressed. Furtherly, a bioactivity assay in vitro indicated that the scavenging rate of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals reached 84.5% at 6.0 mg/mL (p ≤ 0.0001) of rFIP-glu, showing strong antioxidant activity. Subsequently, a safety evaluation demonstrated that rFIP-glu promoted the proliferation of HaCaT cells, with the cell viability reaching 124.3% at 48 μg/mL (p ≤ 0.01), regarding the cell viability of B16 cells after exposure to rFIP-glu (48 μg/mL) significantly inhibited, to 80.7% (p ≤ 0.01). Besides, rFIP-glu inhibited the melanin synthesis of B16 cells in a dose-dependent manner from 100–1000 μg/mL, and rFIP-glu at 500 μg/mL (p ≤ 0.01) exhibited the highest intracellular melanin amount reduction of 16.8%. Furthermore, a mechanism analysis showed that rFIP-glu inhibited tyrosinase (TYR) activity by up-regulating the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and down-regulating the gene expression of TYR and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1), thus inhibiting melanin synthesis. The data implied that rFIP-glu had significant antioxidant activity and whitening potency. It should be used as raw materials for cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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13 pages, 2195 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Assessment of Starch Nanoparticles as an Emulsifier in Human Skin Cells, 3D Cultured Artificial Skin, and Human Skin

by So-Yeon Kim, Hye-Young Shin, Jong-Yea Kim and Se Jin Park

Molecules 2023, 28(2), 806; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28020806 - 13 Jan 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1930

Abstract

Emulsion systems are widely used in various industries, including the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries, because they require emulsifiers to stabilize the inherently unstable contact between oil and water. Although emulsifiers are included in many products, excessive use of emulsifiers destroys skin barriers and causes contact dermatitis. Accordingly, the consumer demand for cosmetic products made from natural ingredients with biocompatibility and biodegradability has increased. Starch in the form of solid nanosized particles is considered an attractive emulsifier that forms and stabilizes Pickering emulsion. Chemical modification of nanosized starch via acid hydrolysis can effectively provide higher emulsion stability. However, typical acid hydrolysis limits the industrial application of starch due to its high time consumption and low recovery. In previous studies, the effects of starch nanoparticles (SNPs) prepared by treatment with acidic dry heat, which overcomes these limitations, on the formation and stability of Pickering emulsions were reported. In this study, we evaluated the safety of SNPs in skin cell lines, 3D cultured skin, and human skin. We found that the cytotoxicity of SNPs in both HaCaT cells and HDF cells could be controlled by neutralization. We also observed that SNPs did not induce structural abnormalities on 3D cultured skin and did not permeate across micropig skin tissue or human skin membranes. Furthermore, patches loaded with SNPs were found to belong in the “No irritation” category because they did not cause any irritation when placed on human skin. Overall, the study results suggest that SNPs can be used as a safe emulsifier in various industries, including in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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16 pages, 2354 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties

by Sílvia Baptista and Filomena Freitas

Molecules 2022, 27(22), 7759; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27227759 - 10 Nov 2022

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 1923

Abstract

Driven by the customers’ growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s⁻¹) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and −97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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10 pages, 2215 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Improving the Mechanical Properties of Damaged Hair Using Low-Molecular Weight Hyaluronate

by Wenjie Qu, Xueping Guo, Guixin Xu, Songyan Zou, Yuwen Wu, Chenyu Hu, Kuan Chang and Jing Wang

Molecules 2022, 27(22), 7701; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27227701 - 09 Nov 2022

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4005

Abstract

Chemical treatments of hair such as dyeing, perming and bleaching could cause mechanical damage to the hair, which weakens the hair fibers and makes the hair break more easily. In this work, hyaluronate (HA) with different molecular weight (MW) was investigated for its effects on restoring the mechanical properties of damaged hair. It was found that low-MW HA (average MW~42 k) could significantly improve the mechanical properties, specifically the elastic modulus, of overbleached hair. The fluorescent-labeling experiments verified that the low-MW HA was able to penetrate into the cortex of the hair fiber, while high-MW HA was hindered. Fourier transform infrared spectrometry (FT-IR) results implied the formation of additional intermolecular hydrogen bonds in the HA-treated hair. Thermos gravimetric analysis (TGA) indicated that the HA-treated hair exhibited decreased content of loosely bonded water, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) characterizations suggested stronger water bonding inside the HA-treated hair, which could alleviate the weakening effect of loosely bonded water on the hydrogen bond networks within keratin. Therefore, the improved elastic modulus and mechanical strength of the HA-treated hair could be attributed to the enhanced formation of hydrogen bond networks within keratin. This study illustrates the capability of low-MW HA in hair damage repair, implying an enormous potential for other moisturizers to be used in hair care products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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9 pages, 2725 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Preparation and Characterization of an Ancient Aminopeptidase Obtained from Ancestral Sequence Reconstruction for L-Carnosine Synthesis

by Fan Liu, Yi Shi, Yakun Fang, Zhenshan Liu, Yu Xin, Zhenghua Gu, Zitao Guo and Liang Zhang

Molecules 2022, 27(19), 6620; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196620 - 05 Oct 2022

Viewed by 1524

Abstract

As a biologically active peptide, L-carnosine has been widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and health care industries due to its various physiological properties. However, relatively little research is available regarding L-carnosine’s enzymatic synthesis function. In this study, a potential enzyme sequence with the function of carnosine synthesizing was screened out using the ancestral sequence reconstruction (ASR) technique. Identified with L-carnosine synthesis activity, this enzyme was further confirmed using autoproteolytic phenomenon via Western blot and N-terminal sequencing. After purification, the enzymatic properties of LUCA–DmpA were characterized. The melting temperature (T_m) and denaturation enthalpy (ΔH) of LUCA–DmpA were 60.27 ± 1.24 °C and 1306.00 ± 26.73 kJ·mol⁻¹, respectively. Circular dichroism (CD) spectroscopy results showed that this ancestral enzyme was composed of α-helix (35.23 ± 0.06%), β-sheet (11.06 ± 0.06%), β-turn (23.67 ± 0.06%) and random coil (32.03 ± 0.06%). The enzyme was characterized with the optimal temperature and pH of 45 °C and 9.0, respectively. Notably, LUCA–DmpA was also characterized with remarkable pH tolerance based on the observation of more than 85% remaining enzymatic activity after incubation at different pH buffers (pH = 6–11) for 12 h. Additionally, rather than being improved or inhibited by metal ions, its enzymatic activity was found to be promoted by introducing organic solvent with a larger log P value. Based on these homology modeling results, the screened LUCA–DmpA is suggested to have further optimization potential, and thereafter to be offered as a promising candidate for real industrial applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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11 pages, 2386 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Camellia Seed Cake Extract Supports Hair Growth by Abrogating the Effect of Dihydrotestosterone in Cultured Human Dermal Papilla Cells

by Ling Ma, Huchi Shen, Chengge Fang, Timson Chen and Jing Wang

Molecules 2022, 27(19), 6443; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196443 - 29 Sep 2022

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 5138

Abstract

Autocrine and paracrine factors play key roles in the process of Androgenetic alopecia (AGA), which are secreted by balding dermal papilla cells (DPCs) after dihydrotestosterone (DHT) induction. Camellia seed cake is an oriental oil extraction byproduct, and its extract has been traditionally used to wash hair in China. This study elucidated the hair growth-promoting effects of Camellia seed cake extract (CSCE) in DHT-treated cultured DPCs and its underlying mechanisms. The effect of CSCE on cell viability and release of inflammatory factors IL-6 and IL-1α was performed on human dermal papilla cells (DPCs) incubated with DHT. Relative expression of bax, bcl-2, p53, androgen receptor (AR) and 5α- reductase type II (SRD5A2) was determined by PCR. Senescence-associated was examined by β-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal) assays. CSCE restored DHT-induced cell damage in a dose-dependent manner, and effectively reduced the production of IL-6 and IL-1α in DHT-treated DPCs. CSCE exhibited an anti-apoptotic effect, which increased the expression of bcl-2, and decreased the expressions of bax and p53 in DHT-incubated DPCs. CSCE also showed an anti-androgenic effect reversing the increase in AR and SRD5A2 expressions in DPCs driven by DHT incubation. In addition, CSCE inhibited the β-galactosidase enzyme activity and slowed down the cell senescence of DPCs which is crucial for AGA progression. In this study, we found that CSCE may have the potential to prevent and alleviate AGA by abrogating the effect of DHT in cultured DPCs. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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Review

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24 pages, 2021 KiB

Open AccessReview

A Comprehensive Bibliographic Review Concerning the Efficacy of Organic Acids for Chemical Peels Treating Acne Vulgaris

by Șoimița Emiliana Măgerușan, Gabriel Hancu and Aura Rusu

Molecules 2023, 28(20), 7219; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28207219 - 22 Oct 2023

Viewed by 2590

Abstract

Acne vulgaris stands out as the most prevalent skin disorder among teenagers and young adults, causing physical discomfort and considerable economic and psychological burdens on individuals and society. A wide range of topical and systemic therapies are available in acne treatment. Chemical peeling is a skin resurfacing technique designed to rebuild healthy skin using exfoliating substances, a simple and affordable process with various dermatological uses. Chemical peels, classified as superficial, medium, and deep, have been utilized for acne vulgaris and multiple other skin issues. In these chemical peels, a diverse range of chemical substances is employed, each with its unique mode of action. Among these, α-hydroxy and β-hydroxy acids have gathered attention for their efficacy in reducing acne lesions and enhancing overall skin appearance. Acids, such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or lactic acid, are commonly used in chemical peels due to their exfoliating and sebum-regulating properties. Despite the widespread use of these acids, there exists a lack of consensus regarding the most effective acid type and concentration for treating acne-prone skin. This review aims to bridge this knowledge gap by evaluating the effectiveness and safety of various organic acids used in chemical peels specifically for acne-prone skin. The findings of this comprehensive bibliographic review indicate that organic acid-based chemical peels represent effective and safe treatment options for individuals with acne-prone skin. Their adaptability sets these treatments apart; the choice of organic acid can be tailored to meet individual patient needs and tolerability levels. This personalized approach ensures that patients receive optimal care while minimizing the risks associated with the treatment. As research in this field progresses, it is anticipated that a more nuanced understanding of the ideal acid type and concentration will emerge, further enhancing the efficacy and safety of chemical peels for acne-prone skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Products and Biomolecules for Cosmetics Applications)

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