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A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Physical Oceanography".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 March 2023) | Viewed by 19514

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Prof. Dr. João Miguel Dias

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Physics Department, CESAM, University of Aveiro, Campus Universitário de Santiago, 3810-193 Aveiro, Portugal
Interests: physical oceanography; estuaries and lagoons; coastal processes; climate change; coastal flooding; tidal processes; numerical modeling
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Prof. Dr. Alexander Babanin

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Guest Editor

Melbourne School of Engineering, University of Melbourne, Parkville, VIC 3000, Australia
Interests: climate; air-sea interactions; ocean turbulence; ocean mixing; maritime engineering; remote sensing of the ocean; wind-generated waves
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Dr. Mª Teresa de Castro Rodríguez

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Guest Editor

EPHYSLAB, Environmental PHYsics LABoratory, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad de Vigo, 32004 Ourense, Spain
Interests: physical oceanography; coastal and estuarine hydrodynamics; river plume dynamics; coastal upwelling; atmosphere-ocean interaction; climate change impact; renewable energies (wave and wind energies)
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Physical oceanography aims to describe and understand the evolving patterns of ocean circulation and waves (surface and internal), along with the distribution of its properties such as temperature, salinity, and density. The processes studied present a wide range of spatial scales, from the centimeter scales relevant to turbulence to the many thousand-kilometer scales of the global circulation. Research approaches followed include theory, direct observation (in situ or remote sensing), and computer simulation, and they frequently include climate change and coastal and estuarine regions.

The main goal of this Special Issue is to gather and share new results, best practices, successes, lessons learned, and general insights that can contribute to improving the knowledge about physical conditions and processes within the ocean and its interfaces, operating at its boundaries, especially the motions and physical properties of ocean waters. Contributions may include topics in descriptive and dynamical physical oceanography, focused from deep ocean and broader scales to shallow waters and local scales, including coastal zones and estuarine systems. It is expected that these research, review, and case study papers will mark the latest advances in physical oceanography and indicate new ideas, problems, and ways of investigation. Theoretical, observational, and modelling studies are all welcome, especially those focusing on elucidating specific physical processes and their contribution to understanding ocean dynamics. Especially welcome are local or regional studies; methods and challenges in understanding ocean circulation drivers and its evolution in future decades; studies of coupled effects between small scales (waves) and large scales (ocean circulation, climate), projected climate change-driven variations in ocean circulation; methods and results concerning ocean circulation variability for present and future climates; and any other innovative contributions.

Prof. Dr. João Miguel Dias
Prof. Dr. Alexander Babanin
Dr. Mª Teresa de Castro Rodríguez
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

thermohaline circulation
wind-induced circulation
Ekman transport
tides
sea level change
tsunamis
storm surges
surface waves
internal waves
planetary waves
ocean–atmosphere interaction
climate variability

Published Papers (11 papers)

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Research

20 pages, 6922 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Tuning the Model Winds in Perspective of Operational Storm Surge Prediction in the Adriatic Sea

by Francesco De Biasio and Stefano Zecchetto

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(3), 544; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11030544 - 03 Mar 2023

Viewed by 1140

Abstract

In the Adriatic Sea, the sea surface wind forecasts are often underestimated, with detrimental effects on the accuracy of sea level and storm surge predictions. Among the various causes, this mainly depends on the meteorological forcing of the wind. In this paper, we try to improve an existing numerical method, called “wind bias mitigation”, which relies on scatterometer wind observations to determine a multiplicative factor

Δ w

, whose application to the model wind reduces its inaccuracy with respect to the scatterometer wind. Following four different mathematical approaches, we formulate and discuss seven new expressions of the multiplicative factor. The eight different expressions of the bias mitigation factor, the original one and the seven formulated in this study, are assessed with the aid of four datasets of real sea surface wind events in a variety of sea level conditions in the northern Adriatic Sea, several of which gave rise to high water events in the Venice Lagoon. The statistical analysis shows that some of the seven new formulations of the wind bias mitigation factor are able to lower the model-scatterometer bias with respect to the original formulation. For some other of the seven new formulations, the absolute bias, with respect to scatterometer, of the mitigated model wind field, results lower than that supplied by the unmodified model wind field in 81% of the considered storm surge events in the area of interest, against the 73% of the original formulation of the wind bias mitigation. This represents an 11% improvement in the bias mitigation process, with respect to the original formulation. The best performing of the seven new wind bias mitigation factors, that based on the linear least square regression of the squared wind speed (

L L S R_{E}

), has been implemented in the operational sea level forecast chain of the Tide Forecast and Early Warning Centre of the Venice Municipality (CPSM), to provide support to the operation of the MO.SE. barriers in Venice. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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13 pages, 6376 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Estimation of a Freak Wave Lifetime in the Shallow Sea

by Ekaterina Didenkulova and Efim Pelinovsky

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(3), 482; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11030482 - 23 Feb 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1066

Abstract

Unexpected large waves known as freak or rogue waves are a phenomenon emerging in the World Ocean and are causing significant damage to vessels and coastal structures. These waves are often associated with deep-water waves; however, they can also be dangerously close to the shore. The present study is devoted to the numerical modeling of the sea state with parameters close to the ones of the freak wave event that happened in Tillamook Bay, Oregon, on 25 January 2007. Parameters of waves and winds are taken from the description of the event and from the reanalysis model ERA5, which proved to be in good agreement. The Korteweg–de Vries equation is chosen to be the model for the numerical simulation as it is an etalon model for water waves in shallow water with weak nonlinearity and dispersion. Possible scenarios of occurrence of freak waves have been analyzed. Lifetimes of freak waves of different shapes have been estimated. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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21 pages, 4445 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Analytical Eddy Viscosity Model for Turbulent Wave Boundary Layers: Application to Suspended Sediment Concentrations over Wave Ripples

by Rafik Absi and Hitoshi Tanaka

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(1), 226; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11010226 - 15 Jan 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2473

Abstract

Turbulence related to flow oscillations near the seabed, in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL), is the phenomenon responsible for the suspension and transport of sediments. The vertical distribution of turbulent eddy viscosity within the WBBL is a key parameter that determines the vertical distribution of suspended sediments. For practical coastal engineering applications, the most used method to parameterize turbulence consists in specifying the shape of the one-dimensional-vertical (1DV) profile of eddy viscosity. Different empirical models have been proposed for the vertical variation of eddy viscosity in the WBBL. In this study, we consider the exponential-type profile, which was validated and calibrated by direct numerical simulation (DNS) and experimental data for turbulent channel and open-channel flows, respectively. This model is generalized to the WBBL, and the period-averaged eddy viscosity is calibrated by a two-equation baseline (BSL) k-ω model for different conditions. This model, together with a β-function (where β is the inverse of the turbulent Schmidt number), is used in modeling suspended sediment concentration (SSC) profiles over wave ripples, where field and laboratory measurements of SSC show two kinds of concentration profiles depending on grain particles size. Our study shows that the convection–diffusion equation, for SSC in WBBLs over sand ripples with an upward convection term, reverts to the classical advection–diffusion equation (ADE) with an “apparent” sediment diffusivity

ε_{s}^{*} = α ε_{s}

related to the sediment diffusivity

ε_{s}

by an additional parameter

α

associated with the convective sediment entrainment process over sand ripples, which is defined by two equations. In the first, α depends on the relative importance of upward convection related to coherent vortex shedding and downward settling of sediments. When the convective transfer is very small, above low-steepness ripples,

α \approx 1

. In the second, α depends on the relative importance of coherent vortex shedding and random turbulence. When random turbulence is more important than coherent vortex shedding,

α \approx 1

, and “apparent” sediment diffusivity reverts to the classical sediment diffusivity

ε_{s}^{*} \approx ε_{s}

. Comparisons with experimental data show that the proposed method allows a good description of both SSC for fine and coarse sand and “apparent” sediment diffusivity

ε_{s}^{*}

. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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16 pages, 5003 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Examining the Ability of CMIP6 Models to Reproduce the Upwelling SST Imprint in the Eastern Boundary Upwelling Systems

by Rubén Varela, Maite DeCastro, Laura Rodriguez-Diaz, João Miguel Dias and Moncho Gómez-Gesteira

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(12), 1970; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10121970 - 11 Dec 2022

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1448

Abstract

Knowing future changes in the sea surface temperature (SST) is of vital importance since they can affect marine ecosystems, especially in areas of high productivity such as the Eastern Boundary Upwelling Systems (EBUS). In this sense, it is key to have fine resolution models to study the SST patterns as close as possible to the coast where the upwelling influence is greater. Thus, the main objective of the present work is to assess the ability of 23 General Circulation Models (GCMs) from phase six of the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project (CMIP6) in reproducing the upwelling SST imprint in the EBUS through a comparison with the Optimum Interpolation of Sea Surface Temperature (OISST ¼) database of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration for the common period of 1982–2014. The results have shown that most of the CMIP6 GCMs overestimate nearshore SST for all the EBUS with the exception of Canary. Overall, the models with better resolution showed lower Normalized Root Mean Squared Error (NRMSE) and Normalized Bias (NBias), although the ability of the models is dependent on the study area. Thus, the most suitable models for each EBUS are the CNRM-HR, GFDL-CM4, HadGEM-MM, CMCC-VHR4, and EC-Earth3P for Canary; CESM1-HR, CMCC-VHR4, ECMWF-HR, and HadGEM-HM for Humboldt; and HadGEM-HH and HadGEM-HM for California. In the case of Benguela, no model adequately reproduces the SST imprint under the conditions established in the present study. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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16 pages, 3551 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Calibration and Validation of Two Tidal Sand Wave Models: A Case Study of The Netherlands Continental Shelf

by G. H. P. Campmans, Thaienne A. G. P. van Dijk, Pieter C. Roos and Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(12), 1902; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10121902 - 05 Dec 2022

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 994

Abstract

Tidal sand waves form a dynamic bed pattern, widely occurring in shallow shelf seas such as the North Sea. Their importance to coastal engineering has inspired many advances in process-based sand wave modelling, aimed at explaining physical mechanisms in the formation stage (‘linear regime’) and capturing the finite amplitude evolution to equilibrium states (‘nonlinear regime’). However, systematic validation of particularly the nonlinear sand wave models is still lacking. Here, we perform a two-step calibration and validation study of a sand wave model (specifically, their linear and nonlinear model versions) against field data from the North Sea. In the first step, the linear model is calibrated by seeking overall values of two uncertain input parameters (slip parameter, wave period) for which the modeled and observed wavelengths show the best agreement. In the second step, using the calibrated input parameters and preferred wavelengths from the linear model, equilibrium heights from the nonlinear sand wave model are validated against the observed sand wave heights. Our results show satisfactory agreement between observed and modeled sand wave lengths (from the linear sand wave model) and a systematic overprediction of sand wave heights (using the nonlinear model). Regression analysis can be used to rescale the nonlinear model results to obtain realistic predictions of sand wave heights. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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15 pages, 4453 KiB

Open AccessArticle

New Insights about Upwelling Trends off the Portuguese Coast: An ERA5 Dataset Analysis

by Spallou Ferreira, Magda Sousa, Ana Picado, Nuno Vaz and João Miguel Dias

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(12), 1849; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10121849 - 01 Dec 2022

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 1540

Abstract

In recent decades, several studies have highlighted the importance of the temporal and spatial structure of upwelling in defining the high levels of productivity of coastal upwelling systems. This work intends to assess the temporal and spatial trends of upwelling along the west and south Portuguese coasts from 1979 to 2020, comparing the patterns between these regions. Two different methodologies to calculate the upwelling indexes (UI), based on wind and sea surface temperature (SST) data, were applied to relate the wind-induced upwelling-favourable conditions (UI_ET) with the expected response on superficial waters, as indicated by the SST patterns (UI_SST). The upwelling-favourable conditions are quite consistent and more frequent and intense on the west coast than on the south coast. Spatially, it was verified from the UI_ET that upwelling-favourable conditions are more intense in association with the main west coast capes and that there is an intensification of favourable winds towards Cape São Vicente, both on the west and south coasts. Seasonally, upwelling-favourable UI_ET was found to be more consistent in the summer on both coasts. However, it also exists in the winter months. In terms of interannual variations, it should be highlighted that between 1992 and 2005 more intense favourable conditions and an apparent change in the seasonality after 2015 were found. Although some of the results derived from the UI_ET are corroborated by the UI_SST (namely, the main spatial trends and interannual variations in the upwelling intensity), several uncertainties are associated with the last index that interfere with its interpretation. For future works, it is advisable to develop a more robust SST-based index that can circumvent the uncertainties pointed out in the present study. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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13 pages, 3660 KiB

Open AccessFeature PaperArticle

Influence of Stratification and Bottom Boundary Layer on the Classical Ekman Model

by Viviana Santander-Rodríguez, Manuel Díez-Minguito and Mayken Espinoza-Andaluz

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(10), 1388; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10101388 - 28 Sep 2022

Viewed by 1310

Abstract

A depth understanding of the different processes of water movements produced by the wind surface stress yields a better description and improvement of the marine food chain and ecosystem. The classical Ekman model proposes a hypothetical ocean, excluding the influence of continents and the Coriolis force. It also assumes infinite depth and a constant vertical eddy viscosity. The current study aims to understand how the vertical velocity profile is affected by the variation of the eddy viscosity coefficient (k_z) and the consideration of a finite depth. The study uses an ideal analytical model with the Ekman classical model as a starting point. It has been demonstrated that, for a very stratified profile, when the depth is not considered infinity, the Ekman transport tends to a direction smaller than 80°. It differs from the classical Ekman model, which proposes an approximated angle equal to 90°. Considering the modified model, it was also found that the surface current deviation is smaller than 40°, which differs from the 45° proposed by the classical model. In addition, it was determined that for ocean depths smaller than 180 m, the maximum velocity does not occur at the water surface, as in the classical model, but at deeper levels. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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16 pages, 3274 KiB

Open AccessArticle

On the Effects of Mixed and Deep Ocean Layers on Climate Change and Variability

by Sergei Soldatenko

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(9), 1216; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10091216 - 31 Aug 2022

Viewed by 1285

Abstract

The ocean, one of the five major components of the Earth’s climate system, plays a key role in climate-forming processes, affecting its change and variability. The ocean influences climate over a wide range of time–space scales. To explore the climate, its components, interactions between them and, in particular, the effect of the ocean on weather and climate, researchers commonly use extremely complex mathematical models of the climate system that describe the atmospheric and ocean general circulations. However, this class of climate models requires enormous human and computing resources to simulate the climate system itself and to analyze the output results. For simple climate models, such as energy balance and similar models, the computational cost is insignificant, which is why these models represent a test tool to mimic a complex climate system and obtaining preliminary estimates of the influence of various internal and external factors on climate, its change and variability. The global mean surface temperature (GMST) and its fluctuations in time serve as critical indicators of changes in the climate system state. We apply a simple two-box ocean model to explore the effect of mixed and deep ocean layers on climate-forming processes and especially on climate change and variability. The effect of mixed and deep ocean layers on GMST is parameterized via the layers’ effective heat capacities and heat exchange between layers. For the listed parameters, the sensitivity functions were derived numerically and analytically, allowing one to obtain an idea of how the mixed and deep ocean layers affect climate change and variability. To study climate change, a deterministic version of the model was used with radiative forcing parameterized by both stepwise and linear functions. In climate variability experiments, a stochastic version of the model was applied in which the radiative forcing is considered as a delta-correlated random process. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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26 pages, 9161 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Coupling a Parametric Wave Solver into a Hydrodynamic Circulation Model to Improve Efficiency of Nested Estuarine Storm Surge Predictions

by Caleb T. Lodge and Robert J. Weaver

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(8), 1117; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10081117 - 13 Aug 2022

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2092

Abstract

Efficiency in storm surge modeling is crucial for forecasting coastal hazards in real-time. While computation cost may not be the main concern for organizations with ample resources, the robustness of forecasts generated by most parties are restricted by wall-clock time. The Parametric Wave Solver (PARAM) was developed by Boyd and Weaver (2021) as an alternative to computationally expensive wind–wave models when modeling restricted estuarine environments. For this study, PARAM has been tightly coupled with the ADCIRC hydrodynamic model to create ADCparam, then integrated into the Multistage mini-ensemble modeling system (MMEMS), a one-way nesting framework for modeling waves and circulation in coastal estuaries developed by Taeb and Weaver (2019). In the MMEMS framework, ADCIRC + SWAN is used to simulate the coarser ocean domain and ADCparam is applied to the nested high resolution estuarine mesh. ADCparam has greatly reduced computation time for the high resolution nested sub-model compared to the third-generation wave model originally used. While the PARAM wave solution shows dissimilarities with the SWAN solution, significant wave height and wave period results are consistent and warrant further pursuit of the parametric wave ensemble method as a substitute to SWAN within MMEMS. ADCparam models demonstrated run times up to 51% faster than ADCIRC coupled with SWAN, an established iterative wave model tightly coupled to ADCIRC and packaged with the MMEMS repository. ADCparam wall time is comparable to running ADCIRC without wave forcing, nearly eliminating the computational cost of including the wave forcing in the high-resolution estuarine domain of MMEMS. Computational efficiency is greatly increased while maintaining solution integrity. Though ADCparam, and its application to MMEMS, are still being refined and validated, the coupled model system has proven to be an efficient, viable path for implementing waves in any estuarine circulation model. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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24 pages, 5477 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Numerical Experiments of Temperature Mixing and Post-Storm Re-Stratification over the Louisiana Shelf during Hurricane Katrina (2005)

by Mohammad Nabi Allahdadi, Chunyan Li and Nazanin Chaichitehrani

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(8), 1082; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10081082 - 07 Aug 2022

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1416

Abstract

Studying mixing and re-stratification during and after hurricanes have important implications for the simulation of circulation and bio-geochemical processes in oceanic and shelf waters. Numerical experiments using FVCOM on an unstructured computational mesh were implemented to study the direct effect of hurricane winds on the mixing and temperature redistribution of the stratified Louisiana shelf during Hurricane Katrina (2005), as well as the post-storm re-stratification timescale. The model was forced by Katrina’s wind stress obtained from a combination of H-Wind database and NCEP model. The climatological profiles of temperature and salinity for August (the month in which Katrina occurred) from the world ocean atlas (WOA, 2013) were used as the pre-storm conditions over the shelf. Model results for sea surface temperature (SST) and mixed layer depth (MLD) were validated versus SST data from an optimally interpolated satellite product, and the MLD was calculated from the heat budget equation of the mixed layer. Model results were used to examine the temporal and spatial responses of SST and MLD over the shelf to Katrina. Results showed that intense mixing occurred within 1–1.1 RMW (RMW is the radius of maximum wind for Katrina), with turbulent mixing as the dominant mixing force for regions far from the eye, although upwelling was an important contributor to modulating SST and MLD. During the peak of Katrina and for the shelf regions severely affected by the hurricane wind, three distinct temperature zones were formed across the water column: an upper mixed layer, a transition zone, and a lower upwelling zone. Shelf re-stratification started from 3 h to more than two weeks after the landfall, depending on the distance from the track. The mixing during Hurricane Katrina affected the seasonal summertime hypoxic zone over the Louisiana shelf and likely contributed to the water column re-oxygenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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14 pages, 4277 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Impacts of the Wave-Dependent Sea Spray Parameterizations on Air–Sea–Wave Coupled Modeling under an Idealized Tropical Cyclone

by Xingkun Xu, Joey J. Voermans, Qingxiang Liu, Il-Ju Moon, Changlong Guan and Alexander V. Babanin

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(12), 1390; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9121390 - 06 Dec 2021

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 2887

Abstract

While sea spray can significantly impact air–sea heat fluxes, the effect of spray produced by the interaction of wind and waves is not explicitly addressed in current operational numerical models. In the present work, the thermal effects of the sea spray were investigated for an idealized tropical cyclone (TC) through the implementation of different sea spray models into a coupled air–sea–wave numerical system. Wave-Reynolds-dependent and wave-steepness-dependent sea spray models were applied to test the sensitivity of local wind, wave, and ocean fields of this TC system. Results show that while the sensible heat fluxes decreased by up to 231 W m⁻² (364%) and 159 W m⁻² (251%), the latent heat fluxes increased by up to 359 W m⁻² (89%) and 263 W m⁻² (76%) in the simulation period, respectively. This results in an increase of the total heat fluxes by up to 135 W m⁻² (32%) and 123 W m⁻² (30%), respectively. Based on different sea spray models, sea spray decreases the minimum sea level pressure by up to 7 hPa (0.7%) and 8 hPa (0.8%), the maximum wind speed increases by up to 6.1 m s⁻¹ (20%) and 5.7 m s⁻¹ (19%), the maximum significant wave height increases by up to 1.1 m (17%) and 1.6 m (25%), and the minimum sea surface temperature decreases by up to 0.2 °C (0.8%) and 0.15 °C (0.6%), respectively. As the spray has such significant impacts on atmospheric and oceanic environments, it needs to be included in TC forecasting models. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Latest Advances in Physical Oceanography)

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