Hydrodynamic Modeling of Waves, Currents, and Transport in Coastal Areas

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Coastal Engineering".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (1 April 2024) | Viewed by 6733

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
Department of Physics, CESAM-Centre for Environmental and Marine Studies, Universidade de Aveiro Campos Universitário Santiago, 3800-193 Aveiro, Portugal
Interests: hydrodynamics; ecological; modelling; estuarine; coastal circulation; climate changes
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

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Guest Editor
CESAM, University of Aveiro, Campus de Santiago, 3810-193 Aveiro, Portugal
Interests: sediment transport; beach and inlet morphodynamics; coastal monitoring; numerical modeling

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Waves and currents are a fundamental feature of the coastal area hydrodynamics and are mainly driven by physical forcing, such as tides, wind stress and river flow. They generate complex circulation patterns along the coast, both in the alongshore and cross-shore directions, influencing or determining sediment transport and the distribution of water parameters, such as temperature and salinity. Currents and waves play an important role in coastal morphodynamics, influence the dispersion of nutrients and pollutants in coastal seas and the biogeochemistry of the water column ecosystem and constitutes an important issue to better predict the future of coastal areas and ecosystems behaviour under climate stress.

This Special Issue is aimed at building synergies between fundamental and applied approaches on understanding waves and currents with special emphasis on the coastal dynamics and environmental impacts. Papers are welcome dealing with theoretical, modeling and applied approaches on coastal circulation under waves, tides and currents, bottom boundary layer hydrodynamics and sediment transport, turbulence, state-of-the-art modeling tools as well as the impact of the climate changes on the morphodynamics and the environmental ecosystem.

This Special Issue covers the following topics:

  • State-of-the-art of numerical models of coastal waters hydrodynamics
  • Modelling coastal hydrodynamic and sediment transport under wave tides and currents
  • Turbulence and bottom boundary layer hydrodynamics
  • Modeling biogeochemistry interactions in coastal areas

Dr. José Fortes Lopes
Dr. Paulo A. Silva
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

21 pages, 10541 KiB  
Article
Rapid Changes in Permeability: Numerical Investigation into Storm-Driven Pebble Beach Morphodynamics with XBeach-G
by Antoine Soloy, Carlos Lopez Solano, Emma Imen Turki, Ernesto Tonatiuh Mendoza and Nicolas Lecoq
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(2), 327; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12020327 - 14 Feb 2024
Viewed by 765
Abstract
This study delves into the morphodynamic changes of pebble beaches in response to storm events, employing a combination of observational and numerical approaches. This research focuses on three extreme events, meticulously examining morhological changes in intertidal topography on the beach of Etretat (Normandy, [...] Read more.
This study delves into the morphodynamic changes of pebble beaches in response to storm events, employing a combination of observational and numerical approaches. This research focuses on three extreme events, meticulously examining morhological changes in intertidal topography on the beach of Etretat (Normandy, France). A robust dataset of daily beach topography, derived from video monitoring systems, validates a set of numerical simulations of cross-shore dynamics performed by the process-based model XBeach-G. Our study evaluates the model’s efficacy in estimating beach profile evolution under high-energy conditions and explores its sensitivity to the physical properties of pebbles, including permeability. The results underscore the significance of considering spatial and temporal variations in permeability during storms to enhance the numerical model’s accuracy in predicting pebble beach dynamics. Furthermore, this study advocates for the incorporation of grain size mapping techniques to refine numerical model implementations. Full article
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16 pages, 2475 KiB  
Article
Acceleration of Morphodynamic Simulations Based on Local Trends in the Bed Evolution
by Ellie Newell and Sergio Maldonado
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(12), 2314; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11122314 - 07 Dec 2023
Viewed by 657
Abstract
Due to the significant mismatch in timescales associated with morphological and hydrodynamic processes in coastal environments, modellers typically resort to various techniques for speeding up the bed evolution in morphodynamic simulations. In this paper, we propose a novel method that differs from existing [...] Read more.
Due to the significant mismatch in timescales associated with morphological and hydrodynamic processes in coastal environments, modellers typically resort to various techniques for speeding up the bed evolution in morphodynamic simulations. In this paper, we propose a novel method that differs from existing ones in several aspects. For example, unlike previous approaches that apply a global measure (such as a constant acceleration factor that uniformly amplifies the bed evolution everywhere), we track and extrapolate local trends in morphological changes. The present algorithm requires the setting of four different parameters, values for which we set through an extensive calibration process. The proposed method is compared against the simple acceleration technique built into the popular software XBeach (wherein it is called morfac) for eight different beach profiles (including linear, Dean, and measured profiles). While the accuracy of both methods is generally similar, the proposed algorithm consistently shows a greater reduction in computational time relative to morfac, with our algorithm-accelerated simulations being on average 2.6 times faster than morfac. In light of these results, and considering the algorithm’s potential for easy generalisation to address arbitrary coastal morphodynamic problems, we believe that this method represents an important addition to the toolbox available to the community interested in coastal modelling. Full article
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16 pages, 15120 KiB  
Article
Phase-Resolved Wave Simulation over Isolated Seamount
by Arnida L. Latifah, Henokh Lugo Hariyanto, Durra Handri and E. van Groesen
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(9), 1765; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11091765 - 09 Sep 2023
Viewed by 994
Abstract
This paper investigates the wind wave deformations above two isolated shallow seamounts using a phase-resolved wave model simulation using the HAWASSI-AB software. The first seamount is located some 8 km from the south coast of Jawa, Indonesia, near Glagah, with its top area [...] Read more.
This paper investigates the wind wave deformations above two isolated shallow seamounts using a phase-resolved wave model simulation using the HAWASSI-AB software. The first seamount is located some 8 km from the south coast of Jawa, Indonesia, near Glagah, with its top area about 2 m from the water level, while the second is the Socotra Rock, in the East China Sea, which has a top 4.6 m under the sea surface. The simulations found that isolated shallow bathymetry may generate a crossing sea region endangering ships. In both domains, short-crested wave simulations of second order show strong refraction and diffraction effects when waves run towards and downstream of the top of the seamount. Waves near the summit embrace the seamount and form a focal area with larger waves downstream. After crossing the Socotra Rock, the interaction waves lead to a crossing sea in the deep water. On the other hand, having passed the Glagah, waves further downstream are partly absent over a substantial stretch of the coast. For both cases, the phase-resolved wave simulation results determine detailed wind wave conditions and wave spectra over the whole area, compensating for a lack of experimental data. Full article
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11 pages, 1852 KiB  
Article
Improved Low-Drag Pontoons for Water Bikes
by Igor Nesteruk, Srećko Krile and Thorsten Möller
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(9), 1754; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11091754 - 08 Sep 2023
Viewed by 714
Abstract
The popularity of modern water bikes increases due to the relatively high speed developed with the use of a human muscle power only. For example, the maximum speed of prototypes reaches the value 3 m/s. Similar vehicles can be used not only for [...] Read more.
The popularity of modern water bikes increases due to the relatively high speed developed with the use of a human muscle power only. For example, the maximum speed of prototypes reaches the value 3 m/s. Similar vehicles can be used not only for recreation and fitness, but also for transportation. To increase their speed and tonnage, we recommend improving the pontoon shape and using electrical power. The underwater part of the pontoon shape was recommended to be similar to the body shape of the fastest fish in order to decrease the wave resistance and total drag. The optimal depth of the movement of corresponding shapes was calculated. The total drag and maximum speeds of the vehicles with the human muscle and electrical power are estimated. Expected success in improving the pontoon shape opens wide prospects for the use of these special-shaped hulls in shipbuilding. Full article
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18 pages, 3020 KiB  
Article
Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Propagation from Deep to Shallow Water
by Peng-Bo Zheng, Zhou-Hao Zhang, Hong-Sheng Zhang and Xue-Yi Zhao
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(5), 1003; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11051003 - 08 May 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1090
Abstract
Herein, a numerical model is proposed to simulate the nonlinear wave propagation from deep to shallow water and wave breaking phenomena. In the numerical model, the governing equations selected, in which the momentum equations were added to the eddy-viscous breaking and bottom friction [...] Read more.
Herein, a numerical model is proposed to simulate the nonlinear wave propagation from deep to shallow water and wave breaking phenomena. In the numerical model, the governing equations selected, in which the momentum equations were added to the eddy-viscous breaking and bottom friction terms to simulate the wave breaking phenomenon, are suitable for the wave propagation from deep to shallow water. The spatial derivations of the governing equations are discretized with the hybrid scheme, combining the finite-difference and finite-volume methods. To numerically simulate the nonlinear wave propagation in waters with various depths accurately, the non-conservative governing equations are reorganized as conservative to facilitate a total variation diminishing (TVD) type scheme using a Riemann solver. Extensive numerical tests of nonlinear wave propagation have been realized in waters with large relative water depths and varying water depths. The comparisons between numerical and analytical or experimental results indicated that the numerical results are reasonable and reliable, and the present numerical model can effectively simulate the wave-breaking phenomenon. Full article
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