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Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in...
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Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in a Changing Climate

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312). This special issue belongs to the section "Coastal Engineering".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (1 November 2023) | Viewed by 8025

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Suzanne J.M.H. Hulscher

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Faculty of Engineering Technology (ET), University of Twente, 7522 NB Enschede, The Netherlands
Interests: coastal engineering; river engineering; morphodynamics; sediment dynamics; biogeomorphology
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Erik M. Horstman

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Faculty of Engineering Technology (ET), University of Twente, 7522 NB Enschede, The Netherlands
Interests: coastal dynamics; nature-based solutions; coastal wetland ecosystems; coastal adaptation
Dr. Trang M. Duong

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Faculty of Engineering Technology (ET), University of Twente, 7522 NB Enschede, The Netherlands
Interests: coastal processes; tidal inlets; coastal hazards; numerical modeling; climate change impacts; nature-based solutions

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The interplay between hydraulics, sediment transport, and morphology defines our coastal systems. In recent history, these systems have been increasingly modified by anthropogenic impacts through shoreward migration as well as active coastal engineering. Consequently, in many places around the world, the coast is also crucial for coastal safety. The latter becomes increasingly important in the view of expected climate change impacts: sea level rise, more extreme river discharges and changes in wind climate. In this Special Issue, we welcome studies on the processes in the coastal zone as well as studies on coastal safety in our changing world. Such coastal safety contributions can address nature-based solutions (e.g., vegetation, nourishments) as well as engineered constructions (e.g., dikes), and the combination of both. The studies can cover field observations and remote sensing, results of laboratory experiments, or numerical modeling. Contributions addressing the impacts of and possible adaptations to climate change are especially welcome.

Prof. Dr. Suzanne J.M.H. Hulscher
Dr. Erik M. Horstman
Dr. Trang M. Duong
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • swash zone processes
  • aeolian sediment processes
  • coastal wetland dynamics
  • nourishments
  • nature-based solutions
  • coastal safety
  • wave overtopping
  • sea-level rise
  • wave climate changes
  • coastal adaptation strategies

Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

23 pages, 5193 KiB  
Article
Influence of Beach Slope on Morphological Changes and Sediment Transport under Irregular Waves
by Sara Dionísio António, Jebbe van der Werf, Erik Horstman, Iván Cáceres, José Alsina, Joep van der Zanden and Suzanne Hulscher
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(12), 2244; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11122244 - 27 Nov 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1080
Abstract
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore [...] Read more.
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore net sediment transport was investigated for the total active profile and for the surf and swash zone separately. It is shown that the steep slope is morphologically more active than the gentle slope, with faster and more pronounced morphological changes and larger sediment transport rates. For both slopes, the total and surf zone net sediment transport were offshore-directed for erosive waves and onshore-directed for the accretive wave condition. However, the net swash zone transport for the erosive wave conditions was offshore-directed for the steep slope and onshore-directed for the gentle slope. The direction and magnitude of the total and surf zone sediment transport correlate well with the slope-corrected Dean criterion with increasing offshore-directed sediment transport (erosion) observed for increasing wave energy and bed slope. This relation does not hold for the swash zone sediment transport along the gentle slope, suggesting that swash zone sediment transport processes are not well captured when using a simple predictor such as the (modified) Dean number. Differences in sediment transport in the swash for the different slopes are likely influenced by differences in incoming wave energy, wave–swash interactions and the relative importance of long- and short-waves. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in a Changing Climate)
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20 pages, 5870 KiB  
Article
Morphological Response of a Highly Engineered Estuary to Altering Channel Depth and Restoring Wetlands
by Rutger W. A. Siemes, Trang Minh Duong, Pim W. J. M. Willemsen, Bas W. Borsje and Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(11), 2150; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11112150 - 11 Nov 2023
Viewed by 923
Abstract
Estuaries are continuously adapting to anthropogenic pressure. Because of sea-level rise and reduced fluvial sediment supply, they are at risk of sediment starvation. Contrarily, some estuaries require frequent dredging after artificially deepening the channel to maintain port operations. To optimize current estuarine functions [...] Read more.
Estuaries are continuously adapting to anthropogenic pressure. Because of sea-level rise and reduced fluvial sediment supply, they are at risk of sediment starvation. Contrarily, some estuaries require frequent dredging after artificially deepening the channel to maintain port operations. To optimize current estuarine functions and make estuaries more resilient to future threats, improved understanding of estuarine development after system changes is essential. This paper investigates the estuarine response related to two large-scale human interventions: (1) altering channel depth, following global trends of channel deepening for port navigability; and (2) creating or restoring wetlands, a nature-based solution increasingly explored for its ecosystem services. A schematized 2D-morphological model is set up using Delft3D-FM reflecting a highly engineered estuary in a micro-tidal and wave-dominant environment. Results demonstrate how channel deepening (from 13 m to 17 m, without wetland presence) increased sedimentation in the channel by +31%. Sedimentation rates in the wetland were mostly unaffected by channel depth. After restoring the wetland area (wetland width from 0 km to 1 km, constant channel depth of 15 m), sedimentation within the channel was reduced by −72%. The wetland area not only served as sediment sink, but also increased the tidal flow, diminishing sedimentation throughout the estuarine channel. Further analysis showed that restoring wetland areas along a specific segment mostly affected channel sedimentation locally (i.e., at the channel segment along the restored wetland). As such, to alleviate dredging operations at critical locations in the navigation channel, strategic restoration of wetlands can be considered which can provide a sustainable alternative to dredging within highly engineered estuaries. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in a Changing Climate)
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22 pages, 7914 KiB  
Article
Conceptualizing Aeolian Sediment Transport in a Cellular Automata Model to Simulate the Bio-Geomorphological Evolution of Beach–Dune Systems
by Manuel Teixeira, Erik M. Horstman and Kathelijne M. Wijnberg
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(7), 1278; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11071278 - 24 Jun 2023
Viewed by 1158
Abstract
Understanding the dynamics of beach–dune systems is crucial for effective coastal management. The cellular automata model DuBeVeg provides a powerful tool for simulating and understanding the bio-geomorphological evolution of these systems, capturing key interactions of aeolian, hydro-, and vegetation dynamics in a simplified [...] Read more.
Understanding the dynamics of beach–dune systems is crucial for effective coastal management. The cellular automata model DuBeVeg provides a powerful tool for simulating and understanding the bio-geomorphological evolution of these systems, capturing key interactions of aeolian, hydro-, and vegetation dynamics in a simplified manner. In this study, we present an alternative representation of the aeolian transport component in DuBeVeg, aiming to better capture the saltation transport mode that prevails on beaches. This new representation is compared with the original aeolian transport representation in DuBeVeg, which is inspired by ripple migration. For three beach width scenarios, we considered the effects of the different aeolian transport representations on the predicted foredune morphology after 50 years, as well as the spatio-temporal evolution of the beach–dune system leading to that morphologic state. The saltation transport representation resulted in a more realistic simulation of the seaward expansion of the foredune compared with the original representation, particularly in scenarios with wide and prograding beaches. The new representation also more accurately captured the amplitude of aeolian bedforms emerging across the beach. These findings highlight the importance of selecting the representative transport mode when simulating the transient bio-geomorphological evolution of beach–dune systems. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in a Changing Climate)
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23 pages, 16773 KiB  
Article
Wave Runup Prediction and Alongshore Variability on a Pocket Gravel Beach under Fetch-Limited Wave Conditions
by Damjan Bujak, Suzana Ilic, Hanna Miličević and Dalibor Carević
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(3), 614; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11030614 - 14 Mar 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2069
Abstract
Most empirical equations used for wave runup predictions have been developed from measurements at straight sandy beaches in unlimited fetch environments. While there are empirical equations to predict wave runup on gravel beaches, they have not been tested for prediction of wave runup [...] Read more.
Most empirical equations used for wave runup predictions have been developed from measurements at straight sandy beaches in unlimited fetch environments. While there are empirical equations to predict wave runup on gravel beaches, they have not been tested for prediction of wave runup on pocket gravel beaches, in limited-fetch environment, which can be found around Mediterranean. This paper addresses this lack of measurements on this type of beaches and examines the alongshore variability of wave runup. Wave runup measurements were made using video observations along 3 cross-sectional profiles on the pocket beach of Ploče, Croatia. The measurements have shown that the wave runup can vary for about 71% even around the centerline of the pocket beach. This variability is due to beach orientation and alignment of beach profiles to the prevailing wave direction, as well as difference in beach slope. Comparison of wave runup predictions from five well-known empirical equations and field measurements showed significant underprediction (up to NBIAS = −0.33) for energetic wave events, and overall high scatter (up to NRMSE = 0.38). The best performing wave runup equation was used for further refinement outside the original parameter space by including the Goda wave peakedness parameter (Qp). The newly developed empirical equation for wave runup reduced the NBIAS to 0 and the NRMSE by 31% compared to the original equation (developed equation metrics: R = 0.91, NBIAS = 0, NRMSE = 0.2, HH = 0.2 on the study site). This empirical equation can potentially be used for design of coastal structures and artificial beaches in similar environments, but further measurements are needed to test its applicability to a range of forcing and environmental conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in a Changing Climate)
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23 pages, 3877 KiB  
Article
Depth-Resolved Modelling of Intra-Swash Morphodynamics Induced by Solitary Waves
by Joost W. M. Kranenborg, Geert H. P. Campmans, Niels G. Jacobsen, Jebbe J. van der Werf, Ad J. H. M. Reniers and Suzanne J. M. H. Hulscher
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2022, 10(9), 1175; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10091175 - 24 Aug 2022
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 1494
Abstract
We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a k−ω turbulence model and the Volume of [...] Read more.
We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a k−ω turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for discriminating between air and water. Sediment transport is described in terms of bedload and suspended load transport. We show that the default divergence scheme in OpenFOAM can become numerically unstable and lead to negative sediment concentrations, and propose a solution to avoid this problem. The model performance is assessed in terms of surface elevation, flow velocities, runup, suspended sediment concentrations, bed profile evolution and sediment transport volumes by comparing with measurements of field-scale (wave height of 0.6 m) solitary waves. The model shows reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and predicts the correct sediment transport volumes, although the deposition is predicted more onshore compared to the measurements. This is partially attributed to an overprediction of the runup. The model shows that the suspended sediment concentration displays a strong vertical dependence. These results show the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone, particularly with respect to vertical structures in the flow and suspended sediment transport. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Exploring Coastal Hydraulic and Sediment Processes for Coastal Safety in a Changing Climate)
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