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Cosmetics
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Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes
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Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 20 October 2024 | Viewed by 20166

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Maria Beatrice Coltelli

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Civil and Industrial Engineering, University of Pisa, 56122 Pisa, Italy
Interests: materials science; polymers; biopolymers; bioplastics; bionanocomposites; nanomaterials; reactive processing; recycling; materials waste management
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Extensive pollution, the spread of non-biodegradable substances and the use of fossil polymers in several consumer goods are detrimental for the environment. Pushed by green-minded consumers, the cosmetics market is looking back at natural treatments of the past but integrated with the extensive holistic knowledge of the present, searching for alternative bio-based and biocompatible materials. The aim is to propose new products with an end of life that is no longer based on landfilling but on composting, biodegradation and recycling. Thus, films and tissues for cosmetics and personal care products, as well as cosmetics packaging, should be replaced with bio-based versions, considering a more extensive use of specific biopolymers to exploit their peculiar functional, physical-chemical or mechanical properties. Polysaccharides, such as starch, pullulan, cellulose, pectin and chitin can be preferentially used, as well as bio-based and biodegradable polyesters. Moreover, cosmetics should increasingly valorize not only materials, but also anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial molecules obtained from widely available biomass, agro-food, marine and forestry waste, opening new industrial developments for an extension of the circular economy. The surface modification of films and tissues for cosmetic applications should consider innovative technologies—including applications, strategies and carriers aimed at enhancing the effectiveness of active molecules and reducing energy and water consumption—rather than traditional methodologies. Thus, bionanotechnology applied to bio-based cosmetics will contribute to more sustainable products, perfectly integrating economic, ecological and health advantages.

Dr. Maria Beatrice Coltelli
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • sustainability
  • biopolymers
  • packaging
  • biodegradable
  • renewable
  • biomass
  • agri-food
  • marine
  • forest

Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

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20 pages, 4651 KiB  
Article
A Sustainable Multistage Process for Immobilizing Bioactive Compounds on Layered Double Hydroxides
by Serena Coiai, Elisa Passaglia, Alice Telleschi, Werner Oberhauser, Maria-Beatrice Coltelli and Francesca Cicogna
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 52; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020052 - 02 Apr 2024
Viewed by 623
Abstract
Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid, [...] Read more.
Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid, and 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid. These organic compounds are known for their powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and are highly suitable for cosmetics, biomedicine, and food packaging. To enhance sustainability, a multistage procedure has been developed with the aim of recovering unexchanged carboxylate anions from residual reaction water, ensuring an environmentally friendly and easily scalable preparation process. The process, adapted for each of the three molecules, allows the production of a consistently high-quality hybrid product containing an organic fraction ranging from 10 to 48% by weight, depending on the specific molecule used. The immobilization of organic compounds has occurred either within the layers of LDH through intercalation or on the external surface through adsorption. Good antioxidant capacity has been exhibited by these powdered hybrid systems, as assessed through both the DPPH and linoleic acid/β-carotene tests. Sustainable production practices are enabled by this innovative approach, which also opens avenues for the development of advanced materials for diverse applications across various industries. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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25 pages, 5743 KiB  
Article
Development of Effervescent Cleansing Tablets Containing Asiatic-Acid-Loaded Solid Lipid Microparticles
by Lucy Mang Sung Thluai, Varin Titapiwatanakun, Warintorn Ruksiriwanich, Korawinwich Boonpisuttinant and Romchat Chutoprapat
Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060148 - 25 Oct 2023
Viewed by 2489
Abstract
The objective of this study was to develop effervescent cleansing tablets that can be dissolved and turned into liquid soap, which can be used for bathing or soaking the body. The asiatic-acid-loaded solid lipid microparticles (AASLMs) were prepared via the hot emulsification method [...] Read more.
The objective of this study was to develop effervescent cleansing tablets that can be dissolved and turned into liquid soap, which can be used for bathing or soaking the body. The asiatic-acid-loaded solid lipid microparticles (AASLMs) were prepared via the hot emulsification method followed by cold re-solidification and then freeze-dried to obtained dry powder. The physicochemical properties such as morphology and % entrapment efficiency (%EE) were evaluated. The results revealed that AASLMs have an irregular shape, and the %EE for the resulting AASLMs was 92.04 ± 3.43%. The tablets were manufactured via the direct compression technique. The compatibility test was conducted to ensure that the excipients are compatible with the active ingredient. The angle of repose, Carr’s index, and Hausner’s ratio were studied to evaluate the flowability of the powder blend before compression. The weight of each tablet was set to 1000 mg, and physicochemical characteristics, in vitro dissolution, ex vivo cleansing efficacy, and stability were evaluated. The results showed that the active ingredient was compatible with other excipients, as the results obtained from FTIR spectra indicated the absence of potential chemical interaction between the active ingredient and excipients used in this study. Additionally, all formulations had good flow properties. The effervescence times of selected formulations, F2 and F3, were <5 min, with favorable pH and hardness values. The friability values of all formulations exceeded 1% because the excipients used in effervescent tablets are very fragile. The release of asiatic acid (AA) from the tablets was dependent on the concentration of SLS. In an ex vivo test, it was discovered that the developed products F2 and F3 showed much more effective cleansing efficacy than water. Nevertheless, brown spots appeared in the tablets and the AA content was significantly decreased in both tested formulations after 3 months’ storage at 40 ± 2 °C/75% RH ± 5% RH. The stability study revealed that the developed products were not stable at high temperature and humidity. Therefore, it is recommended that the developed effervescent tablets are not stored at a high temperature. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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Review

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19 pages, 7147 KiB  
Review
Smart Tissue Carriers for Innovative Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals
by Pierfrancesco Morganti, Gianluca Morganti, Hong-Duo Chen, Maria-Beatrice Coltelli and Alessandro Gagliardini
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010020 - 02 Feb 2024
Viewed by 1624
Abstract
The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous [...] Read more.
The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous features and physiologies, the possibilities in using bio-based, biodegradable and biocompatible materials was explored by investigating the correlations between their structures and morphologies with respect to the characteristics of the skin extracellular matrix (ECM). Regarding the new smart type of biodegradable tissues, their possible composition was reviewed in relation to the skin aging process and to the current contest for novel, innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals that consider the “beauty from within” concept. The barriers to the development of these new tissues were mainly identified due the necessity in defining the claim regarding green products. Moreover, the market growth data regarding these novel products were highlighted to support the idea that the diffusion of smart tissue-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals is an opportunity for new sustainable industrial chains in the development of bioeconomies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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45 pages, 7943 KiB  
Review
Meta-Analysis and Analytical Methods in Cosmetics Formulation: A Review
by Felipe Rico, Angela Mazabel, Greciel Egurrola, Juanita Pulido, Nelson Barrios, Ronald Marquez and Johnbrynner García
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 1; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010001 - 19 Dec 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4678
Abstract
The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower [...] Read more.
The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower carbon footprint and a higher sustainability profile, incorporating, at the same time, natural or biobased raw materials. These raw materials may present challenges for formulators and analytical scientists due to either an inferior performance when compared to their fossil-derived counterparts or higher costs. This comprehensive review covers a spectrum of analytical methodologies employed in cosmetic formulation, including chromatographic analyses, olfactometry, and electronic nose technology. The characterization of product stability involving assessing parameters such as droplet size, zeta potential, viscosity, analytical centrifugation, surface tension, and interfacial tension are also explored. The discussion in this paper extends to the role of rheology in understanding the molecular structure and behavioral dynamics of cosmetic samples. This review concludes with an overview of colorimetric analysis, a crucial aspect related to consumer perception, followed by a discussion on the challenges and opportunities associated with using meta-analysis methodologies in cosmetics. The formulation of cosmetics employing biobased feedstocks is included, highlighting the evolving landscape of cosmetic science and the integration of sustainable practices. This review stands at the interface between a meta-analysis of cosmetics and product performance, which is attained through a detailed examination of each analytical method. The know-how shared serves as a valuable resource for formulators, researchers, and industry professionals for real-world applications in the analytical field of cosmetics formulation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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51 pages, 858 KiB  
Review
Towards Sustainable Color Cosmetics Packaging
by Manu Dube and Sema Dube
Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050139 - 02 Oct 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 6754
Abstract
In spite of the significant progress towards sustainable cosmetics, mass-produced sustainable packaging has proven to be a challenge. The complexity of environmental, economic, social, technological, and policy considerations in conjunction with varying consumer behaviors and corporate goals can make it difficult to select [...] Read more.
In spite of the significant progress towards sustainable cosmetics, mass-produced sustainable packaging has proven to be a challenge. The complexity of environmental, economic, social, technological, and policy considerations in conjunction with varying consumer behaviors and corporate goals can make it difficult to select an optimal strategy across heterogeneous supply chain components spread over the globe, and the cost and effort of developing, testing, and validating alternative strategies discourages empirical exploration of potential alternatives. This review discusses the challenges that can be expected in the context of broader sustainability efforts, as well as the experience gained in related fields, such as sustainable cosmetics and sustainable packaging, to identify potential pitfalls as well as promising trends towards the development of sustainable color cosmetics packaging. The findings suggest there may be little to be gained from attempting to induce customers to change their behavior, waiting for a significant increase in global recycling infrastructure, or expecting regulatory constraints to substitute for the lack of technological and business solutions. A research strategy is delineated towards the development of sustainable packaging that, with appropriate policy support, could minimize externalities and provide mass-produced packaging that is acceptable to both consumers and producers. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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19 pages, 1826 KiB  
Review
Nanogels Based on Hyaluronic Acid as Potential Active Carriers for Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications
by Emanuele Mauri and Stefano Scialla
Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040113 - 07 Aug 2023
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 2940
Abstract
Nanogels are a prominent research topic in biomedical and drug delivery applications. The versatility of their chemistry allows them to be tailored both to carry and release a wide range of active molecules, and to target specific tissues or cell types. Within a [...] Read more.
Nanogels are a prominent research topic in biomedical and drug delivery applications. The versatility of their chemistry allows them to be tailored both to carry and release a wide range of active molecules, and to target specific tissues or cell types. Within a vast field of possible chemical designs, nanogels based on hyaluronic acid seem particularly interesting from the standpoint of dermatological and cosmetic applications, due to the well-known involvement of hyaluronic acid in several fundamental processes related to skin health and ageing. In spite of this, relatively few studies about these nanocarriers and their potential skin-related benefits have appeared so far in the literature. With the aim to stimulate further interest in the topic, in this review, we provide information on hyaluronic acid-based nanogels, including their key physicochemical properties, their typical drug release behavior, and the main synthetic methodologies. The latter include: approaches based on spontaneous self-assembly of polymer molecules; approaches based on chemical cross-linking, where nanogel formation is promoted by covalent bonds between polymer chains; and hybrid approaches that leverage a combination of the above two mechanisms. We believe this body of information, which we collected by going through the relevant literature from the past 10–15 years, offers cosmetic formulators plenty of options to design innovative products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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