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Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches

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A special issue of Antioxidants (ISSN 2076-3921). This special issue belongs to the section "Extraction and Industrial Applications of Antioxidants".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 June 2023) | Viewed by 12184

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Dr. Francisca Rodrigues

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REQUIMTE/LAQV—Superior Institute of Engineering of Porto, Rua Dr. António Bernardino de Almeida 431, 4200-072 Porto, Portugal
Interests: natural extracts; bioactive compounds; antioxidants; in vitro assays; in vivo cosmetic assays; pharmaceutics
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Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

In recent decades, concerns related to food by-products and their associated environmental problems have arisen as challenges for agrofood industries, governments, and civil society. It is estimated that 88 million tonnes of food waste are annually generated in the EU, with associated costs of 143 billion euros. Most of these residues are not transformed due to technical limitations or difficulties in market access, meaning solutions to deal with this problem are urgently needed. These topics make researchers aware of the bioactive composition of food wastes and of the possibility to obtain new active ingredients. The extractive process is the most critical step. Conventional extraction has long been applied to the recovery of bioactive compounds from natural sources, but this technique has limitations. Alternative greener extraction technologies, such as Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) or Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE), have emerged as more sustainable and effective.

This Special Issue intends to explore the extraction of food by-products with antioxidative activity using eco-friendly techniques, aiming to reuse them as new cosmetic ingredients. Special attention will be given to in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies, mathematical models to optimize extraction procedures and deep insights into the characterization of bioactive compositions using analytical methodologies (such as HPLC-DAD, HPLC-MS, LC–MS, HPLC–MS and NMR). Regulatory review papers are welcome.

Dr. Francisca Rodrigues
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Antioxidants is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2900 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

green extraction techniques
subcritical water extraction
ultrasound-assisted extraction
food by-products
3D skin models
skin permeation
regulatory frameworks
biological properties
cosmetic formulation
anti-aging effects

Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

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19 pages, 2400 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Green Extraction of Polyphenols from Waste Bentonite to Produce Functional Antioxidant Excipients for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Purposes: A Waste-to-Market Approach

by Giulia Di Prima, Elena Belfiore, Martina Migliore, Amalia Giulia Scarpaci, Giuseppe Angellotti, Ignazio Restivo, Mario Allegra, Vincenzo Arizza and Viviana De Caro

Antioxidants 2022, 11(12), 2493; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11122493 - 19 Dec 2022

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 1769

Abstract

In an ever-growing perspective of circular economy, the development of conscious, sustainable and environmental-friendly strategies to recycle the waste products is the key point. The scope of this work was to validate the waste bentonite from the grape processing industries as a precious matrix to extract polyphenols by applying a waste-to-market approach aimed at producing novel functional excipients. The waste bentonite was recovered after the fining process and opportunely pre-treated. Subsequently, both the freeze dried and the so-called “wet” bentonites were subjected to maceration. PEG200 and Propylene Glycol were selected as solvents due to their ability to dissolve polyphenols and their wide use in the cosmetic/pharmaceutical field. The extracts were evaluated in terms of yield, density, pH after water-dilution, total phenolic (Folin–Ciocalteu) and protein (Bradford) contents, antioxidant power (DPPH), amount of some representative polyphenols (HPLC-DAD), cytocompatibility and stability. Both solvents validated the bentonite as a valuable source of polyphenols and led to colored fluids characterized by an acidic pH after water-dilution. The best extract was obtained from the wet bentonite with PEG200 and highlighted the highest phenolic content and consequently the strongest antioxidant activity. Additionally, it displayed proliferative properties and resulted almost stable over time. Hence, it might be directly used as polyphenols-enriched functional novel raw material for cosmetic and pharmaceutics purposes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches)

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18 pages, 689 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Salicornia ramosissima: A New Green Cosmetic Ingredient with Promising Skin Effects

by Ana Correia, Ana Margarida Silva, Manuela M. Moreira, Miguel Salazar, Jaroslava Švarc-Gajić, Tanja Brezo-Borjan, Maria de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, Antonio Segura Carretero, Francesca Loschi, Stefano Dall’Acqua, Cristina Delerue-Matos and Francisca Rodrigues

Antioxidants 2022, 11(12), 2449; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11122449 - 12 Dec 2022

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 2297

Abstract

This study aims to validate a new cosmetic ingredient from Salicornia ramosissima S J. Woods through in vitro and ex vivo assays. The halophyte extracts were obtained by subcritical water extraction (SWE) at different temperatures (110, 120, 140, 160 and 180 °C). The antioxidant/radical scavenging activities and the phenolic profile were screened for all extracts. The optimal extract was assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, while permeation assays were performed in Franz cells. The inhibitory activity of hyaluronidase and elastase was also evaluated. The sample extracted at 180 °C presented the highest phenolic content (1739.28 mg/100 g of dry weight (dw)). Despite not being efficient in the sequestration of ABTS^•+, this extract scavenged the DPPH^• (IC₅₀ = 824.57 µg/mL). The scavenging capacity of superoxide (O₂^•−) and hypochlorous acid (HOCl) was also considerable (respectively, IC₅₀ = 158.87 µg/mL and IC₅₀ = 5.80 µg/mL). The cell viability assays confirmed the absence of negative effects on keratinocytes, while the fibroblasts’ viability slightly decreased. The ex vivo permeation of rutin, quercetin and syringic acid after 24 h was, respectively, 11, 20 and 11%. Additionally, the extract showed a good elastase and hyaluronidase inhibitory activity. The results obtained support the S. ramosissima bioactivity as a cosmetic ingredient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches)

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10 pages, 1844 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Liposomal Formulation to Exploit the Bioactive Potential of an Extract from Graciano Grape Pomace

by Carlos Asensio-Regalado, Rosa María Alonso-Salces, Blanca Gallo, Luis A. Berrueta, Clara Porcedda, Francesca Pintus, Antonio Vassallo and Carla Caddeo

Antioxidants 2022, 11(7), 1270; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11071270 - 27 Jun 2022

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 1812

Abstract

Antioxidant compounds with health benefits can be found in food processing residues, such as grape pomace. In this study, antioxidants were identified and quantified in an extract obtained from Graciano red grape pomace via a green process. The antioxidant activity of the extract was assessed by the DPPH and FRAP tests, and the phenolic content by the Folin–Ciocalteu test. Furthermore, nanotechnologies were employed to produce a safe and effective formulation that would exploit the antioxidant potential of the extract for skin applications. Anthocyanins, flavan-3-ols and flavanols were the main constituents of the grape pomace extract. Phospholipid vesicles, namely liposomes, were prepared and characterized. Cryo-TEM images showed that the extract-loaded liposomes were predominantly spherical/elongated, small, unilamellar vesicles. Light scattering results revealed that the liposomes were small (~100 nm), homogeneously dispersed, and stable during storage. The non-toxicity of the liposomal formulation was demonstrated in vitro in skin cells, suggesting its possible safe use. These findings indicate that an extract with antioxidant properties can be obtained from food processing residues, and a liposomal formulation can be developed to exploit its bioactive value, resulting in a promising healthy product. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches)

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15 pages, 1929 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Valorization of Kiwiberry Leaves Recovered by Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction for Skin Application: A Response Surface Methodology Approach

by Ana Margarida Silva, Diana Pinto, Manuela M. Moreira, Paulo C. Costa, Cristina Delerue-Matos and Francisca Rodrigues

Antioxidants 2022, 11(4), 763; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11040763 - 12 Apr 2022

Cited by 16 | Viewed by 3152

Abstract

This study aims to evaluate the optimal ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions of antioxidants polyphenols from Actinidia arguta (Siebold & Zucc.) Planch. Ex Miq. (kiwiberry) leaves using a response surface methodology (RSM). The effects of solid:liquid ratio (2.5–10.0% w/v), time (20–60 min), and intensity (30–70 W/m²) on the total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant/antiradical activities were investigated. The optimal UAE conditions were achieved using a solid:liquid ratio of 10% (w/v) and an ultrasonic intensity of 30 W/m² for 31.11 min. The results demonstrated that the optimal extract showed a high TPC (97.50 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dw) and antioxidant/antiradical activity (IC₅₀ = 249.46 µg/mL for ABTS assay; IC₅₀ = 547.34 µg/mL for DPPH assay; 1440.13 µmol of ferrous sulfate equivalents (FSE)/g dw for ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP)) as well as a good capacity to scavenge superoxide and hypochlorous acid (respectively, IC₅₀ = 220.13 μg/mL and IC₅₀ =10.26 μg/mL), which may be related with the 28 phenolic compounds quantified. The in vitro cell assay demonstrated that the optimal extract did not decrease the keratinocytes’ (HaCaT) viability, while the fibroblasts’ (HFF-1) viability was greater than 70.63% (1000 µg/mL). This study emphasizes the great potential of kiwiberry leaves extracted by UAE for skin application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches)

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Review

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23 pages, 1298 KiB

Open AccessReview

Application of Response Surface Methodologies to Optimize High-Added Value Products Developments: Cosmetic Formulations as an Example

by Francisco-Javier Leyva-Jiménez, Álvaro Fernández-Ochoa, María de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, Jesús Lozano-Sánchez, Rodrigo Oliver-Simancas, M. Elena Alañón, Ines Castangia, Antonio Segura-Carretero and David Arráez-Román

Antioxidants 2022, 11(8), 1552; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11081552 - 10 Aug 2022

Cited by 11 | Viewed by 2293

Abstract

In recent years, green and advanced extraction technologies have gained great interest to revalue several food by-products. This by-product revaluation is currently allowing the development of high value-added products, such as functional foods, nutraceuticals, or cosmeceuticals. Among the high valued-added products, cosmeceuticals are innovative cosmetic formulations which have incorporated bioactive natural ingredients providing multiple benefits on skin health. In this context, the extraction techniques are an important step during the elaboration of cosmetic ingredients since they represent the beginning of the formulation process and have a great influence on the quality of the final product. Indeed, these technologies are claimed as efficient methods to retrieve bioactive compounds from natural sources in terms of resource utilization, environmental impact, and costs. This review offers a summary of the most-used green and advanced methodologies to obtain cosmetic ingredients with the maximum performance of these extraction techniques. Response surface methodologies may be applied to enhance the optimization processes, providing a simple way to understand the extraction process as well as to reach the optimum conditions to increase the extraction efficiency. The combination of both assumes an economic improvement to attain high value products that may be applied to develop functional ingredients for cosmetics purposes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches)

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