Cosmetics

12 pages, 1362 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Tolerability and Effectiveness of Marine-Based Ingredients in Cosmetics: A Split-Face Clinical Study of a Serum Spray Containing Fucus vesiculosus Extract, Ulva lactuca Extract, and Ectoin

by Ciska Janssens-Böcker, Karin Wiesweg and Claudia Doberenz

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030093 - 16 Jun 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3094

Abstract

Introduction: Marine-derived compounds, such as seaweed extracts, fucoidan and ulvans, and ectoin, have gained attention in recent years due to their unique structural and functional characteristics, which make them attractive ingredients for skincare products. In this study, we developed a serum spray based [...] Read more.

Introduction: Marine-derived compounds, such as seaweed extracts, fucoidan and ulvans, and ectoin, have gained attention in recent years due to their unique structural and functional characteristics, which make them attractive ingredients for skincare products. In this study, we developed a serum spray based on fucoidan, Ulva lactuca extract, and ectoin and evaluated its efficacy on facial skin. Materials and Methods: A split-face design dermatological evaluation of the serum spray was conducted on 33 subjects with visible signs of skin aging, with 29 subjects completing the study according to its protocol. The subjects had a mean age of 50 years and 16 had sensitive skin. The instrumental efficacy and subjective efficacy of the spray were measured on facial skin by evaluating the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, skin roughness/wrinkle reduction, and skin hydration at baseline, 20 min after its application and 28 days after its continuous use. Results: We found that the application of the serum spray did not significantly affect the TEWL. The hydration in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray was 17% higher than that in the area treated with Moisturizer alone after 20 min of application (p < 0.001) and 5% higher after 28 days of use (p < 0.05). Twenty minutes after the application of the product, the average roughness in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray decreased significantly, with an average of 7% compared to baseline (p < 0.001). With regard to the long-term antiwrinkle effect, 28 days after the continuous use of the product, the average roughness in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray decreased significantly, with an average of 17% in relation to baseline (p < 0.001). The skin pH was significantly lowered by 6% after 28 days of use of the moisturizer + spray (p < 0.05). Conclusion: The results of this study suggest that the marine-derived compounds fucoidan, ulvans, and ectoin have hydrating and anti-wrinkle properties that make them effective ingredients for skincare products. The serum spray developed in this study was demonstrated to be safe and increase hydration, showing a reduction in wrinkles and maintenance of the skin barrier function after 28 days of its continuous use. Therefore, it could be a promising addition to skincare products for improving skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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13 pages, 1545 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Phenolic Composition and Wound Healing Potential Assessment of Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) Aqueous Extracts

by Soukaina El Massoudi, Abdellah Zinedine, João Miguel Rocha, Meryem Benidir, Ilham Najjari, Lahsen El Ghadraoui, Meryem Benjelloun and Faouzi Errachidi

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030092 - 15 Jun 2023

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 1950

Abstract

The present study aims at valorizing Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) by developing healing formulations for cosmetic and therapeutic uses. For such a goal, the plant was collected from three locations in southeastern Morocco (Alnif, Tafraoute Sidi Ali and Tazarine). Phytochemical analysis [...] Read more.

The present study aims at valorizing Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) by developing healing formulations for cosmetic and therapeutic uses. For such a goal, the plant was collected from three locations in southeastern Morocco (Alnif, Tafraoute Sidi Ali and Tazarine). Phytochemical analysis of Henna leaves was performed by determining phenolic compound contents, and flavonoids and tannins in it, through its aqueous extracts. Then, specific formulations were prepared using aqueous extracts of L. inermis to assess their in vivo wound healing potential in Swiss albino mice used as animal models. Results disclosed that phenolic compounds (13.48%), as well as flavonoid (9.25%) and tannin (2.57%) contents are higher in Henna leaf extracts from Alnif, while Tazarine Henna aqueous extract was found to be richer in saponins (0.32%). Exclusion chromatographic analysis on Sephadex G50 gel corroborates the obtained results and shows that Lawsone levels (Henna coloring agent) are higher in Henna collected from Alnif. Aqueous Henna leaf extracts, at a dose of 10% in petroleum jelly, have been assessed for their ability to heal induced burns in mice. Healing monitoring, carried-out with Henna extracts on mice batches and those of two control batches (mice batch treated with petroleum jelly alone and batch treated with petroleum jelly containing 1% (flamazine), showed a great reduction in burnt surface with an accentuated contraction percentage (CP) and complete re-epithelialization duration (CRD) at 21 days in the 3 studied Henna-based formulations. These findings suggest the interest of potential development of Henna-based formulations, as a source of phenolic compounds, for further dermatological, cosmetic and therapeutic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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19 pages, 3520 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Optimization of a Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GCMS) Method for Detecting 28 Allergens in Various Personal Care Products

by Adnan S. AL-Mussallam, Abdullah T. Bawazir, Rawan S. Alshathri, Omniyah Alharthi and Fahad S. Aldawsari

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030091 - 14 Jun 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3058

Abstract

Fragrances are among the most common ingredients in cosmetics products. Importantly, exposure to fragrances on a daily basis might pose a health risk, leading to serious effects, such as contact dermatitis or contact eczema. Annex III of the European Union Directive on Cosmetic [...] Read more.

Fragrances are among the most common ingredients in cosmetics products. Importantly, exposure to fragrances on a daily basis might pose a health risk, leading to serious effects, such as contact dermatitis or contact eczema. Annex III of the European Union Directive on Cosmetic Products and Gulf Cooperation Council standardization organization (GSO) introduced restrictions for 26 allergens, with their concentrations exceeding 0.001% and 0.01% in leave-on products and rinse-off products, respectively. In the current study, we aimed to expand the scope of the analytical method (EN16274, 2012) to include a broader range of matrices. The optimized method was validated by examining a statistical approach, including selectivity, linearity, accuracy, precision, and measurement of uncertainty. Successfully, the validated data demonstrated acceptable limits according to validation protocols, with linearity showing satisfactory regression of r > 0.995. During method performance assessment, samples were extracted using ultrasound-assisted extraction to extract allergens that yielded relatively high recoveries. Studies on matrices spiked with allergens at different levels showed insignificant bias as an average of 0.07 µg/g. Method performance was assessed by analyzing 140 cosmetics samples, including perfumes, deodorants, aftershave, baby wet wipes, shampoos, lotions, and lip care products. The new optimized analytical method is believed to be a valuable analytical tool to be used in surveillance studies covering a wide range of cosmetic matrices. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Analytical Methods for Quality Control in Cosmetics)

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17 pages, 3877 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Functionality of Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora) Seed Powder as a Biobased Ingredient for the Production of Cosmetic Products

by Frank L. Romero-Orejon, Jorge Huaman, Patricia Lozada, Fernando Ramos-Escudero and Ana María Muñoz

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030090 - 12 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2063

Abstract

Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora H. Karst), a native fruit found in the Amazon region of South America, has high nutritional value and is rich in lipids. However, the processing of sinami generates a large volume of agro-industrial waste, mainly composed of seeds. Our [...] Read more.

Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora H. Karst), a native fruit found in the Amazon region of South America, has high nutritional value and is rich in lipids. However, the processing of sinami generates a large volume of agro-industrial waste, mainly composed of seeds. Our research comprises a proximal analysis of the sinami seed and its phenolic compounds and their antioxidant activity. The chemical analysis revealed high moisture but low protein, fiber, and lipid content. Furthermore, the extracts showed high in vitro antioxidant activity against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical IC₅₀ (0.34 ± 0.001 mg/mL) and ABTS IC50 (0.10 ± 0.0002 mg/mL) free radicals. Based on this previous assessment, a gel exfoliant was developed. Since sinami seed powder is a novel ingredient, different formulations were evaluated to determine future incorporation into the cosmetic market. The best exfoliant gel prototype was studied under normal and stressed conditions (40 °C) for 3 months, maintaining a pH value of 5.25 and final viscosities of 700–800 mPa.s and 600–500 mPa.s under normal and stress conditions, respectively. Although unexplored, the sinami seed could be considered a raw material for the cosmetic industry. Full article

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18 pages, 2211 KiB

Open AccessReview

Acne-like Eruptions: Disease Features and Differential Diagnosis

by Ena Parać, Bruno Špiljak, Liborija Lugović-Mihić and Zrinka Bukvić Mokos

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030089 - 08 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 5212

Abstract

The term “acne-like eruptions” encompasses a variety of skin conditions resembling acne vulgaris. While both acne-like dermatoses and true acne are frequently observed in clinical settings, differentiating between the two might be challenging. Similar to acne, the lesions of acne-like eruptions may exhibit [...] Read more.

The term “acne-like eruptions” encompasses a variety of skin conditions resembling acne vulgaris. While both acne-like dermatoses and true acne are frequently observed in clinical settings, differentiating between the two might be challenging. Similar to acne, the lesions of acne-like eruptions may exhibit papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. However, contrary to acne, comedones are uncommon but may still be observed in certain types of acne-like eruptions. Moreover, acne-like eruptions can be differentiated from acne based on their sudden onset, the propensity to occur across all age groups, the monomorphic appearance of lesions, and the distributions extending outside the seborrheic regions. The development of acne-like eruptions cannot be attributed to a single underlying mechanism; nevertheless, various factors such as patient age, infections, occupation, habits, cosmetics, and medications may be involved. The observed lesions may not respond to standard acne therapy, necessitating that treatment strategies are tailored in accordance with the identified causative agents. The following review aims to outline distinct entities of acne-like eruptions and present features that set them apart from true acne. Acne-like eruptions in the adult population, infectious diseases resembling acne, and acne-like eruptions resulting from exposure to chemical and physical agents are addressed in this paper. An understanding of the clinical presentation, pathophysiology, and epidemiology of this group of dermatoses is pivotal for a precise diagnosis and provision of appropriate care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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12 pages, 2413 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Protective Effects of Naringenin against UVB Irradiation and Air Pollution-Induced Skin Aging and Pigmentation

by Christina Österlund, Nina Hrapovic, Virginie Lafon-Kolb, Nahid Amini, Sandra Smiljanic and Lene Visdal-Johnsen

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030088 - 07 Jun 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2729

Abstract

Both UVB irradiation and air pollution are major extrinsic factors causing premature aging of the skin, including sagging, wrinkles, and pigmentation spots. Naringenin, a naturally occurring flavanone, found in citrus fruits, and known for its good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, was investigated for [...] Read more.

Both UVB irradiation and air pollution are major extrinsic factors causing premature aging of the skin, including sagging, wrinkles, and pigmentation spots. Naringenin, a naturally occurring flavanone, found in citrus fruits, and known for its good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, was investigated for protective effects in human skin cells and reconstructed epidermis. The results showed that naringenin inhibits UVB-induced inflammation markers MMP1, MMP3, IL6, and GM-CSF, as well as pollution-induced MMP1 in human skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, naringenin inhibited the pollution-induced expression of the CYP1A1 gene in human skin keratinocytes. In melanocytes and pigmented reconstructed epidermis, naringenin significantly downregulated several genes involved in melanogenesis, such as MITF, MLPH, and MYO5A. Additionally topical treatment with naringenin on pigmented reconstructed epidermis significantly decreased melanin production. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that naringenin could be a valuable ingredient in skincare products, protecting against the detrimental effects of both UVB and pollution on the skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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13 pages, 1464 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical Properties, Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities of Durio zibethinus Murray and Value Added for Cosmetic Product Formulation

by Lapatrada Mungmai, Chanapa Kanokwattananon, Supawadee Thakang, Arkhanut Nakkrathok, Pawalee Srisuksomwong and Patcharawan Tanamatayarat

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030087 - 05 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2658

Abstract

Durio zibethinus Murray, or durian fruit, is considered the “King of fruit” in various parts of Southeast Asia. It is classified in the Durio genus, which has been reported to be beneficial in the medical and pharmaceutical industry. The objective of this study [...] Read more.

Durio zibethinus Murray, or durian fruit, is considered the “King of fruit” in various parts of Southeast Asia. It is classified in the Durio genus, which has been reported to be beneficial in the medical and pharmaceutical industry. The objective of this study was to investigate the physicochemical properties, biological activities, and cosmetic applications of the polysaccharide extractions from the green (GH) and white (WH) fruit-hulls and the ethanolic extracts from the pulp (P) and seeds (S) of D. Zibethinus. The extracts were developed as cosmetic products, and skin irritation was assessed by volunteers. P, S, GH, and WH extracts gave percentage yields of 12.13, 4.01, 1.60, and 1.18, respectively. The morphological structure of GH was highly porous, while the surface of WH was flattened, with no porosity observed. The seed extract showed the highest total phenolic content and antioxidant activity (DPPH) of 0.33 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g and IC₅₀ 0.08 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively, while no anti-tyrosinase activity was detected in any individual extract. The total phenolic content, DPPH assay, and anti-tyrosinase activity after blending the extracts were significantly (p < 0.05) higher than in the individual extracts. Combining extracts such as SGH and SGWH gave IC₅₀ values of anti-tyrosinase activity at 8.69 ± 1.82 mg/mL and 0.067 ± 0.00 mg/mL, respectively. No durian extracts exhibited growth inhibition against Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Cutibacterium acnes. A gel formulation containing durian extract was prepared by a cold process. It had good stability, with no skin irritation reported by the volunteers. Both crude durian and polysaccharide extracts showed promise as active ingredients in cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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24 pages, 4080 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmetic and Pharmaceutic Products with Selected Natural and Synthetic Substances for Melasma Treatment and Methods of Their Analysis

by Agata Wawrzyńczak

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030086 - 02 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 4541

Abstract

Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing [...] Read more.

Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing factors have been identified, namely exposure to ultraviolet and visible light, family predisposition, pregnancy, and the use of exogenous hormones. Since current beauty standards associate healthy skin with its flawless and uniform color, people strive to eliminate any unaesthetic discoloration. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing active substances with a whitening effect then become helpful. The most commonly used for this purpose are hydroquinone, arbutin, retinoids, organic acids (e.g., kojic, azelaic, and ellagic), and vitamins (B3, C, and E). However, the undesirable side effects they cause and the drive to replace synthetic chemicals with their natural counterparts have resulted in numerous reports on extracts of natural origin that exhibit skin-whitening effects. The purpose of this paper is to review the most recent scientific literature, which presents active substances of natural and synthetic origin with potential for the treatment of melasma. In addition, analytical techniques that can be used for qualitative and quantitative analysis of these substances present in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products will also be presented. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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19 pages, 2081 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Beneficial Bio-Extract of Camellia sinensis var. assamica Fermented with a Combination of Probiotics as a Potential Ingredient for Skin Care

by Netnapa Makhamrueang, Araya Raiwa, Jutamas Jiaranaikulwanitch, Ekkachai Kaewarsar, Widawal Butrungrod and Sasithorn Sirilun

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030085 - 01 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2525

Abstract

Biotechnology, cosmetics, and aesthetic remedies are now inextricably intertwined due to the production of alternative, more effective, and safer active ingredients. Additionally, there has been an increase in demand for natural cosmetic ingredients across the globe. Camellia sinensis var. assamica (Miang tea) is [...] Read more.

Biotechnology, cosmetics, and aesthetic remedies are now inextricably intertwined due to the production of alternative, more effective, and safer active ingredients. Additionally, there has been an increase in demand for natural cosmetic ingredients across the globe. Camellia sinensis var. assamica (Miang tea) is a good alternative because of several biological activities, and is commercially cultivated as a resource in northern Thailand. The process of fermentation mediated by probiotics can enhance the bioavailability of compounds, transform bioactive compounds, and decrease chemical solvent use for sustainability. This study aims to apply the functional evaluation of Miang tea bio-extracts to promote skin health. On the basis of their bioactive enzymes, β-glucosidase, and antioxidant properties, the strains Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus (previously Lactobacillus rhamnosus), Lactiplantibacillus plantarum (previously Lactobacillus plantarum), and Saccharomyces cerevisiae were used as mixed probiotic starter cultures. The activities of white, green, and black Miang tea bio-extracts, including ferric reducing antioxidant power, lipid peroxidation, nitric oxide inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, collagenase inhibition (MMP-1 and MMP-2), and antimicrobial activity, were all considerable after 7 days of fermentation time. Additionally, phenolic antioxidant compounds (gallic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, caffeic acid, caffeine, and p-coumaric acid) were identified. The current study’s findings can determine the most effective fermentation time and dose of bio-extract, as well as suggest improvements in bioactive compounds for use in skin care formulations. These results will be used for testing on human participants in further work. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Novel Trends in Skin Care Products)

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14 pages, 849 KiB

Open AccessReview

Vitiligo: A Review of Aetiology, Pathogenesis, Treatment, and Psychosocial Impact

by Khadeejeh AL-smadi, Mohammad Imran, Vania R. Leite-Silva and Yousuf Mohammed

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030084 - 27 May 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 8687

Abstract

Vitiligo is an acquired, chronic condition characterised by depigmentation of the epidermis or by destruction/loss of melanin. Skin cells (melanocytes) are responsible for producing melanin, the substance that gives pigmentation to the skin. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the [...] Read more.

Vitiligo is an acquired, chronic condition characterised by depigmentation of the epidermis or by destruction/loss of melanin. Skin cells (melanocytes) are responsible for producing melanin, the substance that gives pigmentation to the skin. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the current state of knowledge about vitiligo. Although there is no specific ethnic group, gender, or skin type that is more prone to vitiligo than others, it can affect anyone. The most commonly prescribed treatments for vitiligo are systemic and topical phototherapy and immunomodulators such as corticosteroids, calcineurin inhibitors, and vitamin D analogues, in addition to cosmetics that can camouflage and improve the quality of life. Even though vitiligo is typically thought of as a cosmetic disorder, its effects on the physical and psychosocial health of sufferers cannot be ignored. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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12 pages, 2521 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Food Supplements for Skin Health: In Vitro Efficacy of a Combination of Rhodiola rosea, Tribulus terrestris, Moringa oleifera and Undaria pinnatifida on UV-Induced Damage

by Alessia Paganelli, Alessandra Pisciotta, Giulia Bertani, Rosanna Di Tinco, Nadia Tagliaferri, Giulia Orlandi, Paola Azzoni and Laura Bertoni

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030083 - 19 May 2023

Viewed by 2579

Abstract

An increasing number of people seek treatment for aging-related conditions. Plant-derived nutraceuticals are currently of great interest in the setting of dermo-cosmetic studies for their preventive role in photoaging. We conducted an in vitro study on the possible preventive properties against photoaging of [...] Read more.

An increasing number of people seek treatment for aging-related conditions. Plant-derived nutraceuticals are currently of great interest in the setting of dermo-cosmetic studies for their preventive role in photoaging. We conducted an in vitro study on the possible preventive properties against photoaging of a commercially available product (Venerinase^®). A mixture of Rhodiola rosea, Tribulus terrestris, Moringa oleifera, Undaria pinnatifida, folic acid and vitamin B12 (Venerinase^®) was tested for its potential anti-aging effects on the skin in vitro. Conventional histology, immunofluorescence and real time PCR were employed in the research protocol. The tested product was proven to prevent UV-induced morphological changes both in keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Moreover, senescence-related and proinflammatory pathways commonly triggered by UV exposure were demonstrated to be inhibited by Venerinase^® pretreatment. Our results support the potential clinical benefits of oral supplements for the treatment and/or prevention of cutaneous photodamage. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)

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16 pages, 3177 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Optimization of the Composition of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tremella fuciformis Extract (Fungi)

by Bartosz Woźniak, Jagoda Chudzińska, Paulina Szczyglewska, Izabela Nowak and Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030082 - 18 May 2023

Viewed by 2796

Abstract

According to recent trends, people are more interested in cosmetic products based on natural raw materials, known to be safe for humans, including extracts obtained from selected plants, rich in active ingredients, such as proteins, vitamins, micro- and macro-elements, phospholipids, antioxidants, and natural [...] Read more.

According to recent trends, people are more interested in cosmetic products based on natural raw materials, known to be safe for humans, including extracts obtained from selected plants, rich in active ingredients, such as proteins, vitamins, micro- and macro-elements, phospholipids, antioxidants, and natural preservatives. An example of such raw materials is Tremella fuciformis extract, which is a natural alternative to hyaluronic acid. It retains water deep in the skin cells and stimulates the skin to fight free radicals, which are responsible for the premature aging of the skin. The aim of this study was to optimize the composition of cosmetic formulations based on natural substitutes for the synthetic substances, as well as their characterization, which included the determination of the physicochemical and skin care properties. Formulations containing Tremella fuciformis extract had the effect of reducing TEWL by 12.4%, compared to a formulation that did not contain this active ingredient, and allowed adequate hydration of the epidermis, which was confirmed by apparatus methods. Additionally, dermatological tests were also conducted for the formulations obtained, which showed that no erythema or swelling/irritation was observed in any of the test volunteers 48 and 72 h after the application of the product. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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23 pages, 2547 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Hot Springs Cyanobacteria Endowed with Biological Activities for Cosmetic Applications: Evaluation of On-Site Collected Communities and Isolated Strains

by Natascia Biondi, Maria Raffaella Martina, Marisanna Centini, Cecilia Anselmi and Mario R. Tredici

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030081 - 17 May 2023

Viewed by 2739

Abstract

Microbial communities growing around hot springs (bioglea), of which cyanobacteria are the main components, contribute to beneficial properties of thermal muds and often enter cosmetic treatment products. Bioglea is obtainable via alternative approaches to harvesting from nature: direct cultivation of whole [...] Read more.

Microbial communities growing around hot springs (bioglea), of which cyanobacteria are the main components, contribute to beneficial properties of thermal muds and often enter cosmetic treatment products. Bioglea is obtainable via alternative approaches to harvesting from nature: direct cultivation of whole communities and isolation and cultivation of the isolated strains. Cultivation represents a step towards industrial production, guaranteeing higher availability, quality and safety. In this work, the biochemical composition of natural and cultivated bioglea collected in different hot springs and of cyanobacterial strains isolated thereof was analysed. Lipophilic and hydrophilic extracts were tested for antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities and toxicity against Artemia salina. Higher antimicrobial activity was found in lipophilic than hydrophilic bioglea extracts and the opposite in isolates’ extracts. Thermal water extracts also showed some activity. No toxicity was observed. Bioglea radical scavenging activity positively correlated with carotenoids (lipophilic extracts) and phycobiliproteins (hydrophilic extracts). No correlation was observed for isolated strains. Cultivation at the 10 L scale of Chroococcidiopsis BIOG3 evidenced bioactivity changes with the growth phase and life cycle stage. From activity comparison, communities showed higher potential over single strains cultivation; however, further investigations should elucidate isolates’ full potential also by combining them into synthetic communities to simplify production and standardisation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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3 pages, 184 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Special Issue “Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds”

by Othmane Merah

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030080 - 16 May 2023

Viewed by 1564

Abstract

Throughout history, humans have utilized plants as conscious or unconscious sources of molecules for food, health and well-being [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds)

18 pages, 2518 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Profiling and Evaluation of the Effect of Guarana-Loaded Liposomes on Different Skin Cell Lines: An In Vitro Study

by Isabel Roggia, Patrícia Gomes, Ana Julia Figueiró Dalcin, Aline Ferreira Ourique, Ivana Beatrice Mânica da Cruz, Euler E. Ribeiro, Montserrat Mitjans and Maria Pilar Vinardell

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030079 - 12 May 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2276

Abstract

The objective of this study was to analyze the in vitro stability and toxicity of liposomes containing guarana in skin cell lines. The liposomes were produced by the reverse phase evaporation method containing 1 mg/mL guarana. The stability of the liposomes was evaluated [...] Read more.

The objective of this study was to analyze the in vitro stability and toxicity of liposomes containing guarana in skin cell lines. The liposomes were produced by the reverse phase evaporation method containing 1 mg/mL guarana. The stability of the liposomes was evaluated by physical-chemical parameters for up to 90 days using three different storage conditions. The cytotoxicity of guarana (GL), liposomes (B-Lip), and guarana-loaded liposomes (G-Lip) was evaluated on spontaneously immortalized human keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), murine Swiss albino fibroblasts (3T3), and human fibroblasts (1BR.3.G). The evaluation was performed using cellular viability analysis. The techniques used were 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) and neutral red capturing (NRU), and the analyses were conducted after 24, 48, and 72 h of exposure of these cells to the different treatments. The G-Lip exhibited physical-chemical stability for 60 days when the samples were stored in a refrigerator. The GL, B-Lip, and G-Lip demonstrated low cytotoxicity in the three different cell cultures tested since a small reduction in cell viability was only observed at the highest concentrations. In addition, greater cell damage was observed for B-Lip; however, guarana protected the cells from this damage. Thus, G-Lip structures can be considered promising systems for topical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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15 pages, 3492 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Use of Cosmetic Creams and Perception of Natural and Eco-Friendly Products by Women: The Role of Sociodemographic Factors

by Marina Leite Mitterer-Daltoé, Vaniele B. Martins, Cristiane R. B. Parabocz and Mário A. A. da Cunha

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030078 - 12 May 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2597

Abstract

The present work seeks to understand the use of cosmetic creams and the perception of natural and eco-friendly products by women and to explore the impacts of their personal characteristics. The study was designed using two approaches: (i) an investigation into the role [...] Read more.

The present work seeks to understand the use of cosmetic creams and the perception of natural and eco-friendly products by women and to explore the impacts of their personal characteristics. The study was designed using two approaches: (i) an investigation into the role of personal characteristics on the frequency of use and amount spent on cosmetic creams; and (ii) an understanding of the perception of natural and eco-friendly cosmetic creams by the use of check-all-that-apply (CATA) questions. Results showed that scholarity has a strong influence on the use of cosmetic creams; women with a postgraduate education reported higher frequency of use and spending on cosmetic creams and showed an awareness of natural and eco-friendly cosmetics. The subject of natural and eco-friendly cosmetic creams is not something that most of the women that participated were aware of, and the CATA technique proved to be a valuable tool to discover this. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Consumer Behavior, Skin Type, and Usage of Cosmetic Products: Determinants and Implications for Cosmetic Counseling)

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17 pages, 351 KiB

Open AccessReview

Acne Vulgaris Topical Therapies: Application of Probiotics as a New Prevention Strategy

by Ieva Dapkevicius, Vânia Romualdo, Ana Camila Marques, Carla M. Lopes and Maria Helena Amaral

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030077 - 11 May 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 7380

Abstract

The skin microbiome is an essential barrier for preventing the invasion of pathogens and regulating the immune responses. When this barrier is disrupted, several dermatoses, including acne vulgaris, may arise. Most people will experience acne starting at the onset of puberty and continuing [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome is an essential barrier for preventing the invasion of pathogens and regulating the immune responses. When this barrier is disrupted, several dermatoses, including acne vulgaris, may arise. Most people will experience acne starting at the onset of puberty and continuing into adolescence; a significant percentage of those individuals continue to suffer from it into adulthood. Although common, this dermatosis usually has an enormous impact on the self-esteem and quality of life of individuals who suffer from it. An increase in consumer literacy regarding skincare leads buyers to seek out innovative products containing ingredients with proven benefits for their concerns. Probiotics have proven to be an alternative to the use of antibiotics, often associated with undesirable effects, in the treatment and prevention of dermatological disorders such as acne. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the pathophysiology, risk factors, symptoms, conventional treatment recommendations and main studies emphasizing innovative topical products for acne-prone skin based on probiotics. In addition, the potential advantages, and limitations/challenges associated with the implementation and manufacturing of these innovative skin products are also highlighted. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

14 pages, 3340 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Preparation and Investigation of the SPF and Antioxidant Properties of O/W and W/O Emulsions Containing Vitamins A, C and E for Cosmetic Applications

by Nikolaos D. Bikiaris, Ioanna Koumentakou, Katerina Hatzistamatiou, Smaro Lykidou, Panagiotis Barmpalexis and Nikolaos Nikolaidis

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030076 - 10 May 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2558

Abstract

In the current work, Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) emulsions containing Vitamins A, C and E in 0.5, 1 and 2% wt concentrations were prepared. The pH and viscosity stability over storage, as well as the sunscreen and antioxidant [...] Read more.

In the current work, Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) emulsions containing Vitamins A, C and E in 0.5, 1 and 2% wt concentrations were prepared. The pH and viscosity stability over storage, as well as the sunscreen and antioxidant properties of the obtained emulsions, were investigated. The results obtained showed that vitamins slightly increased the pH of the blank emulsions; however, their pH values were within the acceptable values (pH = 4–6). Nevertheless, all emulsions presented excellent pH stability during storage for up to 90 days. Similar results were observed by rheological measurements as the prepared emulsions did not exhibit viscosity instabilities deriving during storage. Moreover, emulsions containing Vitamin A exhibited higher UV protection than the other emulsions, as the W/O emulsion containing 2% wt Vitamin A presented the highest SPF value at 22.6. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)

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14 pages, 3021 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Cosmeceutical Potential of the Yellow-Green Alga Trachydiscus minutus Aqueous Extract: Preparation of a Natural-Based Dermal Formula as a Proof of Concept

by Nikolaos D. Georgakis, Elisavet Ioannou, Marianna Chatzikonstantinou, Marián Merino, Evangelia G. Chronopoulou, José Luis Mullor, Panagiotis Madesis and Nikolaos E. Labrou

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030075 - 10 May 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2312

Abstract

In the present study, selected cosmeceutical properties of aqueous extracts from the microalgae strain Trachydiscus minutus were assessed and compared with those obtained using three widely used Chlorella strains (C. vulgaris, C. sorokiniana, and C. minutissima). Among all extracts, [...] Read more.

In the present study, selected cosmeceutical properties of aqueous extracts from the microalgae strain Trachydiscus minutus were assessed and compared with those obtained using three widely used Chlorella strains (C. vulgaris, C. sorokiniana, and C. minutissima). Among all extracts, T. minutus extracts showed the highest total antioxidant capacity (TAC) and inhibitory potency towards elastase, suggesting potential activity in controlling skin aging. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory activity and UVA protection of T. minutus extract were evaluated employing normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The results showed that the T. minutus extract was able to significantly inhibit the transcription of selected marker genes involved in inflammation [interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFα)]. In addition, treatment of NHDF and HaCaT cells with T. minutus extract ameliorate the UVA-induced cell damage by decreasing the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Extracts from T. minutus were formulated into a skin care cream and an aqueous gel. Both formulas exhibited excellent compatibility and stability. Comprehensively, all these results suggest that T. minutus extract displays promising cosmeceutical properties by providing antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities, and therefore has potential for cosmeceutical use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)

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11 pages, 3631 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Fluorescent Light Energy (FLE) Generated through Red LED Light and a Natural Photoconverter Gel as a New, Non-Invasive Approach for Facial Age Control: A Pilot Study

by Giuseppe Scarcella, Roberta Tardugno, Pasquale Crupi, Marilena Muraglia, Maria Lisa Clodoveo and Filomena Corbo

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030074 - 09 May 2023

Viewed by 2127

Abstract

This study, for the first time, evaluated the safety and efficacy of a new natural-based topical gel containing a spirulina extract. This photoconverter gel generates fluorescent light energy (FLE) via a red LED light device, which is proven to be effective for age [...] Read more.

This study, for the first time, evaluated the safety and efficacy of a new natural-based topical gel containing a spirulina extract. This photoconverter gel generates fluorescent light energy (FLE) via a red LED light device, which is proven to be effective for age control of facial skin. This was a one-centre, observational, uncontrolled pilot trial. Eight healthy female subjects aged 35 to 65 years old, with Fitzpatrick skin types II–V were recruited. The duration of the study was five treatment sessions of one treatment every seven days, with a final follow-up at one month after the last treatment session. The images and the related data were acquired with the SONY^® Mod. DSCRX10M3, the Canfield VISIA Facial Imaging System^®, and QUANTIFICARE 3D^® analysis. Patient compliance was excellent (100%) and the treatment was described as warm and pleasant by the patients. After 30 days, VISIA parameters such as wrinkles, texture, red areas, and Trueskin Age^® had improved. The safety and efficacy of the FLE treatment assessed in this trial were achieved for overall rejuvenation of facial skin, focusing on wrinkles evaluated via the specific VISIA algorithms. Full article

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11 pages, 4818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Assessment of the Skin-Whitening and Anti-Wrinkling Effects of Anemarrhena asphodeloides Bunge Root Extracts and the Identification of Nyasol in a Developed Cream Product

by Myoung Hee Lee, Dong IL Jang and Jongkeun Choi

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 73; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030073 - 09 May 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 5726

Abstract

Anemarrhena asphodeloides Bunge (A. asphodeloides Bunge) root extract contains nyasol as its main ingredient. Nyasol was extracted and prepared as a cosmetic raw material in 95% ethanol. To identify nyasol as a marker compound qualitative analysis was performed using ultra-performance liquid chromatographyi [...] Read more.

Anemarrhena asphodeloides Bunge (A. asphodeloides Bunge) root extract contains nyasol as its main ingredient. Nyasol was extracted and prepared as a cosmetic raw material in 95% ethanol. To identify nyasol as a marker compound qualitative analysis was performed using ultra-performance liquid chromatographyi coupled with electrospray ionization–tandem mass spectrometry. Below a nyasol content of 12 μg/mL, the root extract exhibited negligible cytotoxicity. In this concentration range, melanin production in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells decreased as the concentration of nyasol increased, indicating a skin-whitening effect. In addition, an antiwrinkling effect was confirmed by evaluating the inhibition of MMP-1 protein expression in TNF-α-treated HaCaT cells by either A. asphodeloides Bunge root extract (>0.31 μg/mL) or nyasol (>0.25 μg/mL). High-performance liquid chromatography-coupled with a photodiode detector array was used to show that our extract contained 5.06 ± 0.01% nyasol. Furthermore, when this analysis method was applied for the quality control of a cream product containing 2 wt.% of A. asphodeloides Bunge root extract, the measured content of nyasol (0.1%) was over 90% of the nominal quantity. Therefore, the product was deemed to be within the required quality standards. Full article

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12 pages, 752 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Effect of Cysteine Peptide Ingestion on Skin Brightness, a Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled, Parallel-Group Human Clinical Trial

by Yoshiaki Uchida, Tomomi Kaneda, Mio Ono, Masao Matsuoka, Utano Nakamura, Akiko Ishida, Yoshimitsu Yamasaki, Hiroki Takeo and Takanobu Sakurai

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 72; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030072 - 08 May 2023

Viewed by 4688

Abstract

Glutathione (GSH) is present in almost all human cells and has a beneficial effect on human skin brightness. Cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly) and γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys) are GSH synthesis components. In this study, we defined glutathione (GSH), cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly), and γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys) as cysteine peptide and [...] Read more.

Glutathione (GSH) is present in almost all human cells and has a beneficial effect on human skin brightness. Cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly) and γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys) are GSH synthesis components. In this study, we defined glutathione (GSH), cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly), and γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys) as cysteine peptide and performed a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study to investigate the effects of orally administered cysteine peptide on human skin brightness using a CM-26d portable spectrophotometer in healthy males and females aged between 20 and 65 years old. Eligible participants were randomly allocated into three groups (cysteine peptide 45 mg: n = 16, 90 mg: n = 15, and placebo: n = 16). Each subject ingested six tablets every day for 12 weeks, and skin brightness was measured at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. As a result, the 45 mg group exhibited arm brightening in a time-dependent manner, and a significant difference was observed compared to the placebo at week 12 (p = 0.028). Moreover, no serious adverse events and changes related to 270 mg study food were observed in the safety trial. Here, we suggest that cysteine peptide is a promising and safe compound for human skin brightness. Full article

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31 pages, 8512 KiB

Open AccessReview

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

by Roger L. McMullen and Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030071 - 29 Apr 2023

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 17375

Abstract

There has been interest in the history of cosmetics for the last several decades. In part, this renewed curiosity is probably due to the revolutionizing natural movement in the cosmetic industry. In this article, we provide an overview of the historical aspects of [...] Read more.

There has been interest in the history of cosmetics for the last several decades. In part, this renewed curiosity is probably due to the revolutionizing natural movement in the cosmetic industry. In this article, we provide an overview of the historical aspects of the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics, which mostly come from botanical and mineral sources. We begin with an introduction to the art and science of cosmetics in the ancient world, which includes accounts of Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Greek, and Roman cosmetics as well as Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurvedic Medicine. These dermatological and cosmetic practices, which were advanced for the time, paved the way for the current revolution of natural ingredients in cosmetic products. Without providing a comprehensive historical account, we surveyed selected cultures during different periods of time to provide some perspective of our current understanding of natural ingredients in cosmetics. Attention is also given to the rich contributions of body art by tribal societies to our knowledge base, especially in the areas of dyes and pigments. Finally, we offer some perspective of natural ingredient cosmetics in the Information Age. Full article

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16 pages, 1990 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparison of Analytical Methods for the Detection of Residual Crosslinker in Hyaluronic Acid Hydrogel Films

by Fatimah Rashid, Stephen Childs and Kalliopi Dodou

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 70; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030070 - 26 Apr 2023

Viewed by 2653

Abstract

Cosmetic skincare products often consist of residual chemical ingredients which are by-products of the manufacturing process that may cause side effects such as skin irritation or allergic dermatitis; investigating the safety of these products to protect the consumer is an important part in [...] Read more.

Cosmetic skincare products often consist of residual chemical ingredients which are by-products of the manufacturing process that may cause side effects such as skin irritation or allergic dermatitis; investigating the safety of these products to protect the consumer is an important part in the quality control of formulations intended for skin application. Acrylates are a type of polymer widely used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications as copolymers, emulsifiers, and cross-linkers. Due to the acrylates being strong skin irritants and sensitizers, it is essential to quantify the levels of residual acrylate monomers in the formulation; these levels must be within the accepted value to be safe. Our previously reported novel hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogel films were formulated using pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (PT) as the crosslinker. Therefore, it was crucial to analyze the residual PT in these hydrogel films. Gas chromatography (GC) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy were used as analytical methods to detect the residual PT monomers in the HA hydrogel samples. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was conducted to investigate structural changes due to the PT monomers leaching out from the HA hydrogel films. The results from the GC method validation (linearity R² > 0.99, RSD for intra-day precision = 1.78%, inter-day precision = 2.52%, %recovery = 101.73%, %RSD = 1.59% for robustness, LOD, LOQ values 0.000032% m/m, 0.00013% m/m for sensitivity) revealed its suitability for such studies. NMR analysis results agreed with the GC results confirming the correct quantification of the extracted residual acrylate monomer. The maximum safe concentration of PT crosslinker in the formulation was determined to be 2.55% m/m. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Analytical Methods for Quality Control in Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 4821 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Silico Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Dermatocosmetic Activities of Phytoconstituents in Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.)

by Toluwase Hezekiah Fatoki, Basiru Olaitan Ajiboye and Adeyemi Oladapo Aremu

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030069 - 25 Apr 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3226

Abstract

The global demand for herbal cosmetics is vastly increasing due to their health benefits and relative safety. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are used in cosmetic preparations due to their skin-whitening, antisensitizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this work is to computationally evaluate the [...] Read more.

The global demand for herbal cosmetics is vastly increasing due to their health benefits and relative safety. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are used in cosmetic preparations due to their skin-whitening, antisensitizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this work is to computationally evaluate the bioactive constituents of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) that possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and dermatocosmetic activities, and elucidate the dynamics of their molecular targets. The used methods are skin permeability prediction, target prediction, molecular docking, and molecular dynamic simulation (MDS). The results show that, at a skin permeation cut-off value of −6.0 cm/s, nine phytoconstituents of licorice (furfuraldehyde, glucoliquiritin apioside, glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritin, licopyranocoumarin, licuraside, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and liquiritin apioside) were workable. Molecular target prediction results indicate probability for tyrosinase, 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (HSD11B1), monoamine oxidase B, steroid 5-alpha-reductase 1, and cyclo-oxygenase-1. On the basis of molecular docking, glucoliquiritin apioside and glycyrrhizin had the best antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and dermatocosmetic activities. MDS results show that the complexes had good stability, and MMGBSA results indicate that the complexes had satisfactory binding energy. Overall, this study demonstrates that licorice extracts are potential antioxidants that could enhance histological dermal and epidermal properties, and reduce the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant-Based Cosmeceuticals: Recent Developments and Advances)

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28 pages, 2844 KiB

Open AccessReview

Dermatological Bioactivities of Resveratrol and Nanotechnology Strategies to Boost Its Efficacy—An Updated Review

by Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo, André R. T. S. Araújo, Márcio Rodrigues, Ankita Mathur, Maria Beatriz S. Gonçalves, Kalpita Tanwar, Fariba Heidarizadeh, Fereshteh Nejaddehbashi, Abbas Rahdar, Priscila Gava Mazzola, Francisco Veiga and Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 68; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030068 - 24 Apr 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 4428

Abstract

Resveratrol is a polyphenolic phytoalexin, whose main natural sources are red grapes, red wine, berries, and peanuts. When applied to the skin, resveratrol evidences a good penetrating capacity and low degradation compared to the oral route, allowing for a longer and improved topical [...] Read more.

Resveratrol is a polyphenolic phytoalexin, whose main natural sources are red grapes, red wine, berries, and peanuts. When applied to the skin, resveratrol evidences a good penetrating capacity and low degradation compared to the oral route, allowing for a longer and improved topical effect. This bioactive molecule has been gaining interest in dermo-pharmacy and cosmetics for the prevention and treatment of skin alterations. Its inherent meritorious biomedical potentials, including anti-aging, photoprotective, estrogen-like, skin-whitening, anti-acne, wound healing, anti-scarring, antimicrobial, and anti-skin cancer properties are the most evident. However, resveratrol evidences stability hurdles, becoming an unstable molecule when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Several technological strategies have been developed to improve its stability, efficacy, and safety. We have described the main topical properties of resveratrol, and the involved mechanisms of action, and a great focus was placed on the technological strategies for the efficient application of resveratrol in dermatological and cosmetic formulations, including nanotechnology. Full article

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Cosmetics, Volume 10, Issue 3 (June 2023) – 26 articles

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