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Cosmetics
Volume 10
Issue 2
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Cosmetics, Volume 10, Issue 2 (April 2023) – 30 articles

Cover Story (view full-size image): Low-molecular-weight gelators are small molecules that can self-assemble inside a solvent, leading to the formation of supramolecular gels. These gels can be used in the cosmetic industry for encapsulation and improved penetration of active compounds. Antioxidants can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, for example, for their slow release over time or the preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the present study, a low-molecular-weight gel made with Boc-L-DOPA(Bn)2-OH was studied as a suitable material to host antioxidants (1) α-tocopherol and (2) postbiotics, and improve their activity. It was demonstrated that the antioxidant activity was not only maintained but even significantly enhanced by inserting the antioxidants in the supramolecular gels. View this paper
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11 pages, 727 KiB  
Article
Compositions of Abrasive Cosmetics from Polish Manufacturers
by Martyna Guzik, Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig and Anna Piotrowska
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 67; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020067 - 20 Apr 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2834
Abstract
Microplastics have been widely used in cosmetics and, among other things, very often as an abrasive component in peelings. This type of additive is not the main cause of environmental microplastic contamination, but it can pose a significant threat to the environment and [...] Read more.
Microplastics have been widely used in cosmetics and, among other things, very often as an abrasive component in peelings. This type of additive is not the main cause of environmental microplastic contamination, but it can pose a significant threat to the environment and to people. Manufacturers are increasingly taking the decision to withdraw microplastics from cosmetics, replacing them with alternatives, and this is also happening because of legal requirements. The European Chemicals Agency, in 2019, presented a proposal to limit the use of polymer plastics in cosmetic products due to the fact that they may be a potential source of primary microplastics. The final form of the EU regulation is planned for the years 2023–2024. The aim of this study was to analyze the compositions of widely available rinse-off abrasive cosmetics from Polish manufacturers and to identify the most common natural raw materials replacing microplastics. Fifty randomly selected rinse-off products were analyzed for abrasive ingredients in INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) formulations. Among the tested cosmetics, 13 contained microplastics and 49 contained natural abrasive particles, and polyethylene did not appear in any product. The most common vegetable raw material substitute for microplastics was sugar, and sodium chloride was the most common mineral substitute. Compared to previous years, there has been an improvement in the Polish cosmetics market, where manufacturers are increasingly opting for plant-based substitutes for microplastics, but relevant legal regulation is still needed. Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)
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21 pages, 2421 KiB  
Review
In Vitro Models for Anti-Aging Efficacy Assessment: A Critical Update in Dermocosmetic Research
by Ana M. Cruz, Margarida C. Gonçalves, Matilde S. Marques, Francisco Veiga, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Patrícia C. Pires
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020066 - 20 Apr 2023
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 9654
Abstract
The skin is the human body’s largest organ and serves as a crucial boundary between the body and the external environment. As a natural process, skin aging cannot be avoided, and it causes changes in the skin’s strength, structure, elasticity, and integrity. Many [...] Read more.
The skin is the human body’s largest organ and serves as a crucial boundary between the body and the external environment. As a natural process, skin aging cannot be avoided, and it causes changes in the skin’s strength, structure, elasticity, and integrity. Many approaches have been developed over the years to study the skin, including in vivo and in vitro methods. Nevertheless, animal assays have ethical issues and a lack of reproducibility. Hence, in vitro skin models have been increasingly developed and used. For the assessment of the potential of the anti-aging activity of compounds of different origins, the most commonly used in vitro assays are the ones evaluating antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, antiglycation, or moisturizing activity, and the induction of skin cell proliferation/anti-senescence effects or the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase production. The purpose of this review is to summarize the most commonly used in vitro models for the evaluation of skin aging and cometic products’ anti-aging efficacy, providing a useful guide for researchers in the field. Overall, these assays provide important data on the safety and efficacy of anti-aging compounds, and a foundation for research on and the eventual introduction of formulations into the cosmetics market. Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)
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14 pages, 3204 KiB  
Review
Therapeutic Values of Exosomes in Cosmetics, Skin Care, Tissue Regeneration, and Dermatological Diseases
by Abhimanyu Thakur, Disheet Shah, Deepika Rai, Diana Carolina Parra, Spoorthy Pathikonda, Svetlana Kurilova and Alma Cili
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020065 - 20 Apr 2023
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 22229
Abstract
Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles that are released by cells, and their potential has been explored for use in cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases. The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate [...] Read more.
Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles that are released by cells, and their potential has been explored for use in cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases. The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate gene expression, and induce cell differentiation, which can have a positive impact on skin health. In terms of cosmetics, exosomes have been used to reduce wrinkles, improve skin texture and hydration, and enhance skin elasticity, as well as to reduce inflammation and damage caused by UV radiation. Furthermore, exosomes have been used to promote tissue regeneration in skin wounds and to treat dermatological diseases such as systemic lupus erythematosus, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, systemic sclerosis, pigment regulation, vitiligo, and hair growth. In this review, the therapeutic value of exosomes in the field of cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases, has been elaborated. The existing literature demonstrated that with further research, exosomes may become a viable therapeutic option for many skin conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)
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11 pages, 1397 KiB  
Article
Chemical and Rheological Characterization of a Facial Mask Containing an Olive Pomace Fraction
by Raquel Rodrigues, Joana C. Lobo, Diana M. Ferreira, Ewa Senderowicz, M. Antónia Nunes, M. Helena Amaral, Rita C. Alves and M. Beatriz P. P. Oliveira
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020064 - 18 Apr 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2390
Abstract
Cosmetic interest in agro-industrial byproducts is growing. In fact, many studies have shown that these residues present bioactive compounds with several skincare applications. One example is olive byproducts, such as olive pomace, which has a composition rich in phenolic compounds. As the production [...] Read more.
Cosmetic interest in agro-industrial byproducts is growing. In fact, many studies have shown that these residues present bioactive compounds with several skincare applications. One example is olive byproducts, such as olive pomace, which has a composition rich in phenolic compounds. As the production of olive oil is increasing, the amount of byproducts being generated is escalating, with significant constraints in their safe disposal due to their phytotoxic nature. The present study aimed to, from a zero-waste perspective, characterize and add value to a sub-byproduct, a semi-solid paste (SSP) derived from a patent process of olive pomace extraction. The chemical analysis of this residue revealed high moisture and significant protein, fat, and ash contents. Furthermore, vitamin E total phenolics and flavonoid content were assessed, as well as antioxidant activity, using DPPH• (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical) and FRAP (ferric reducing antioxidant power) methods. Based on this primary assessment, a facial mask with antioxidant properties was developed. Rheological analysis showed that the developed mask presented shear thinning behavior, thixotropy, and texture characteristics desirable for skincare use. The results of this study showed the successful incorporation of SSP into facial masks and provides a preliminary assessment of this byproduct’s impact on the appearance and performance of these formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)
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16 pages, 4546 KiB  
Article
Efficacy Evaluation of Chlorella pyrenoidosa Extracts on Cytotoxicity Induced by Atmospheric Particulate Matter 2.5 Exposure Using Skin Cell Lines and Zebrafish Models
by Xiang Wang, Xin Li, Xufeng Jiang, Fengwei Xiang, Yuanliang Lai and Guanggang Xiang
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020063 - 12 Apr 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1935
Abstract
The invention and use of chelating purification products directed at atmospheric particulate matter 2.5 (PM2.5) are beneficial in preventing cytotoxicity and bodily harm. However, natural plant active compounds that minimize the adverse effect of PM2.5 are rarely reported. Chlorella pyrenoidosa extracts (CPEs), a [...] Read more.
The invention and use of chelating purification products directed at atmospheric particulate matter 2.5 (PM2.5) are beneficial in preventing cytotoxicity and bodily harm. However, natural plant active compounds that minimize the adverse effect of PM2.5 are rarely reported. Chlorella pyrenoidosa extracts (CPEs), a nutritional supplement derived from Chlorella vulgaris, have been shown to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Here, we discovered that CPEs extracted with crushing cell extraction technology can attenuate the negative impacts of PM2.5. Furthermore, CPE intervention can protect against DNA damage and unstable genomic structure due to PM2.5 exposure. Moreover, CPE intervention restored mRNA and protein expression of the DNA misincorporation repair mechanism gene, nudix hydrolase 1 (NUDT1), and 8-oxoguanine DNA glycosylase (OGG1). In vivo damage protection experiments revealed that CPEs reduced PM2.5-induced hepatotoxicity of zebrafish larvae and effectively prevented the death of adult zebrafish exposed to PM2.5. Briefly, CPEs can attenuate cytotoxicity, resist DNA damage, relieve PM2.5-induced hepatotoxicity, and improve cell purification activity, making them ideal for use as a protective factor or functional ingredient in the cosmetics and health food industries. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)
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23 pages, 456 KiB  
Review
Regulatory Requirements for Exporting Cosmetic Products to Extra-EU Countries
by Silvia Morel, Simona Sapino, Elena Peira, Daniela Chirio and Marina Gallarate
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020062 - 10 Apr 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 13515
Abstract
In this study, an overview of the regulations in force in some extra-EU states belonging to different geoeconomic areas is provided, starting from the current EU legislation on cosmetic products. We focused on their legislative frameworks and the location of the relevant regulatory [...] Read more.
In this study, an overview of the regulations in force in some extra-EU states belonging to different geoeconomic areas is provided, starting from the current EU legislation on cosmetic products. We focused on their legislative frameworks and the location of the relevant regulatory documentation. Furthermore, for each state considered, our analysis examined the notification/authorization processes, approaches to animal testing, and allowed/prohibited ingredient lists, as these aspects are considered to be among the primary restrictions hindering the cosmetic market. It can be observed that many states are working towards standardising their regulations to promote greater international trade. However, it is essential to recognize that different countries belonging to distinct geoeconomic areas may have unique requirements, and harmonization may not necessarily be the best solution. It is crucial to consider different needs and preferences when approaching the global regulation of the cosmetic industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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13 pages, 1925 KiB  
Review
Hyaluronic Acid in Facial Rehabilitation—A Narrative Review
by Uwe Wollina, Hristina Kocic and Alberto Goldman
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020061 - 06 Apr 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3120
Abstract
Background: Hyaluronic acid fillers (HAF) are a versatile tool in esthetic medicine. They also have a potential for medical indications including facial rehabilitation. Materials and methods: We performed a literature search on PUBMED and Google Scholar until December 2022. Clinical trials, clinical studies, [...] Read more.
Background: Hyaluronic acid fillers (HAF) are a versatile tool in esthetic medicine. They also have a potential for medical indications including facial rehabilitation. Materials and methods: We performed a literature search on PUBMED and Google Scholar until December 2022. Clinical trials, clinical studies, review articles, systematic reviews, meta-analyses, case series, and case reports were considered for review. Keywords “facial rehabilitation”, “acne scars”, “traumatic scars”, “oral restoration”, “facial lipoatrophy”, “facial asymmetry”, “periocular correction”, “nasal obstruction”, “ear lobe restoration”, “morphea”, AND “hyaluronic acid filler” were used to select articles. Results: We prepared a narrative review on the use of HAF for correction of facial asymmetry and asymmetric lips, improvement of different types of scars, improvement of the jaw line, improvement of ear lobes, periocular and oral restoration, and the treatment of nasal obstruction and morphea en coub de sabre. The amount of HA used in these indications is often less than 1 mL. The bolus technique, fanning, and dual-plane injections can be utilized for treatment. Duration of clinical effects depends upon the anatomical region and is usually maintained between 2 months and 2 years. Adverse events are often mild and temporary. Vascular occlusion is a severe adverse event, but it has not been reported yet for these medical indications. Repeated injections are recommended to obtain a longer-lasting improvement. In cases of morphea, only stable and non-inflammatory plaques should be treated. The advantage of HAF compared to permanent and semipermanent fillers is the availability of hyaluronidase for rapid removal of filler material and to revise overcorrection. Conclusions: HAF play an auxiliary role in facial rehabilitation. Knowledge of filler qualities, anatomy, and underlying diagnoses is important for their safe application. More prospective controlled trials are necessary to improve evidence. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Aesthetic and Cosmetic Dermatology: 2nd Edition)
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21 pages, 4788 KiB  
Article
Chlorogenic Acid, a Component of Oenanthe javanica (Blume) DC., Attenuates Oxidative Damage and Prostaglandin E2 Production Due to Particulate Matter 10 in HaCaT Keratinocytes
by In Ah Bae, Jae Won Ha and Yong Chool Boo
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020060 - 06 Apr 2023
Viewed by 2066
Abstract
Oenanthe javanica (OJ) is a perennial herb that grows wildly or is cultivated in Asia, and it is used as food or in traditional medicine. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of OJ-derived materials have been extensively explored previously, but their effects on the [...] Read more.
Oenanthe javanica (OJ) is a perennial herb that grows wildly or is cultivated in Asia, and it is used as food or in traditional medicine. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of OJ-derived materials have been extensively explored previously, but their effects on the cytotoxicity of air pollution are currently unknown. Therefore, the present study aimed to evaluate the effect of the hot water extract of OJ on atmospheric particulate matter 10 (PM10)-induced cytotoxicity and oxidative damage in human HaCaT keratinocytes, and to identify its active ingredient and mechanism of action. When the hot water extract of OJ was divided into methylene chloride, ethyl acetate (EA), n-butanol (BA), and water fractions, caffeic acid was enriched in the EA fraction and chlorogenic acid was enriched in the BA fraction. PM10 increased reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, and inflammatory prostaglandin (PG) E2 production in cells. The BA fraction reduced the PM10-induced ROS production in cells more effectively than the total extract and other solvent fractions. Chlorogenic acid was more effective in reducing ROS levels than caffeic acid and N-acetyl cysteine (NAC). Chlorogenic acid attenuated the increase in lipid peroxidation and the PG E2 production of cells due to PM10 exposure. Of the genes involved in PG E2 production, phospholipase A2 group IVA (PLA2G4A), Prostaglandin-endoperoxide synthase 1 (PTGS1), and 2 (PTGS2) were transcriptionally up-regulated by PM10, whereas phospholipase A2 group IIA (PLA2G2A) was down-regulated and prostaglandin E synthetase 1 (PTGES1) and 2 (PTGES2) were a little altered. The PM10-induced increase in PLA2G4A mRNA was alleviated by chlorogenic acid and NAC. Accordingly, PM10 increased the expression levels of cytosolic phospholipase A2 (cPLA2) protein and its phosphorylated form, which were attenuated by chlorogenic acid and NAC. Thus, chlorogenic acid may attenuate the PM10-induced PG E2 production through the suppression of PLA2G4A mRNA and cPLA2 protein expressions. This study suggests that chlorogenic acid contained in OJ extract may help alleviate the oxidative damage to and inflammatory responses of the skin cells due to exposure to air pollutants. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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8 pages, 1755 KiB  
Communication
Comparing Traditional and “In-Motion” Intense Pulsed Light Techniques for Hair Removal: A Split Study
by Luigi Bennardo, Steven Paul Nisticò, Grazia Primavera, Martina Tolone, Federica Tamburi, Stefano Bennardo and Giovanni Cannarozzo
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020059 - 30 Mar 2023
Viewed by 2117
Abstract
Background and Objectives: Hair removal is a common aesthetic concern for patients referred to dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. Lasers and lights are one of the mainstays in the management of this condition. Among these devices, intense pulsed lights (IPLs) are broadly used in [...] Read more.
Background and Objectives: Hair removal is a common aesthetic concern for patients referred to dermatologists and aesthetic physicians. Lasers and lights are one of the mainstays in the management of this condition. Among these devices, intense pulsed lights (IPLs) are broadly used in order to reduce the number and width of the hair present. Currently used techniques are associated with a high risk of side effects, such as hyper or hypopigmentation. Materials and Methods: Thirty patients seeking hair removal in one or more body areas with skin phototypes 1 to 4 were recruited to perform this study. All areas to be treated were divided into two equal regions; one side was treated with the standard IPL hair removal procedure, while the other was treated with a new “in-motion” IPL technology. Results and hair removal rates were evaluated six months after the last treatment. Results: Out of the 30 patients treated, all patients experienced hair reduction. No statistically significant difference in hair removal was noted among the two sides. A statistically significant reduction in pain during the procedure was observed in the side treated with the “in-motion” technique. Conclusions: Traditional and “in-motion” IPL techniques have similar results in hair removal; the “in-motion” technology seems to guarantee a better safety profile than the traditional technique, as well as maintains the same results over time and a faster treatment time. A more extensive clinical study will be necessary to confirm our study’s results. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Aesthetic and Cosmetic Dermatology: 2nd Edition)
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19 pages, 1083 KiB  
Article
Chemical Characterization and Bioactive Properties of Wine Lees and Diatomaceous Earth towards the Valorization of Underexploited Residues as Potential Cosmeceuticals
by Cristina N. Duarte, Oludemi Taofiq, Maria Inês Dias, Sandrina A. Heleno, Celestino Santos-Buelga, Lillian Barros and Joana S. Amaral
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020058 - 29 Mar 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2355
Abstract
Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and [...] Read more.
Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and diatomaceous earth used in wine filtration. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate and compare the phenolic profile of these underexploited winemaking residues and assess their biological potential based on their antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and anti-aging activities (inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase). Twenty-nine phenolic compounds, including twelve anthocyanins, were tentatively identified in the residues, with red grape pomace showing the highest diversity of compounds. The diatomaceous earth presented the highest content of non-anthocyanin phenolic compounds, being particularly rich in flavan-3-ols and myricetin-O-hexoside, and also presenting two anthocyanins. This sample also showed a high antioxidant activity, evidencing the best result in the reducing power assay. The red wine lees extract, despite showing a low content of phenolic compounds and less antioxidant activity, presented the highest inhibition capacity of bacteria growth. The extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity against keratinocyte (up to 400 μg/mL) and fibroblast (up to 100 μg/mL) skin cell lines. However, the capacity of inhibiting tyrosinase and collagenase was low for the lees and diatomaceous earth, contrary to the grape pomace, seeds, and skins extracts that showed promising results, evidencing its potential as a cosmeceutical. Overall, this study highlights for the first time the potential of diatomaceous earth, an underexploited winemaking waste, in the obtention of added-value extracts and/or ingredients for cosmetic industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)
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13 pages, 1184 KiB  
Article
Effect of Oral Intake of Flammulina velutipes (Enokitake) on Skin Condition in Healthy Adult Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study on Mental and Physical Health
by Masumi Nagae, Akiko Isa, Satoshi Ishikawa, Shinichi Muta and Kuniyoshi Shimizu
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020057 - 28 Mar 2023
Viewed by 1967
Abstract
Nutritional foods are concentrated sources of molecules with a nutritional or physiological effect which contain nutrients. There is a category, “nutricosmetics”, defined as ingestible natural health products that enhance the function and appearance of human skin, nails, and hair. A new variety of [...] Read more.
Nutritional foods are concentrated sources of molecules with a nutritional or physiological effect which contain nutrients. There is a category, “nutricosmetics”, defined as ingestible natural health products that enhance the function and appearance of human skin, nails, and hair. A new variety of Flammulina velutipes (F. velutipes), Oki-Shirayuki 919, was explored to ascertain whether its components have functions of nutricosmetics. We focused on physiological effects for enhancing the human skin condition, such as moisturizing or barrier functions in F. velutipes. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study was performed between January and March 2022. Among healthy men and women (n = 30) aged 20 to 59 years, the test group (n = 15) took a test product which included F. velutipes dry powder, and the placebo group (n = 15) took a placebo (a similar product in which the F. velutipes dry powder was replaced with plum fruit paste). Since the amount of increase in skin hydration over four weeks in the test group was significantly larger than that in the placebo group, a significant difference between the two groups was observed (p = 0.033). F. velutipe was suggested to have some physiological functions such as improving skin moisture. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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17 pages, 3591 KiB  
Article
Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment
by Sílvia Baptista, Filipa Baptista and Filomena Freitas
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 56; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020056 - 27 Mar 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2620
Abstract
The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 [...] Read more.
The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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23 pages, 620 KiB  
Review
Dermatological Management of Aged Skin
by Ewelina Rostkowska, Ewa Poleszak, Katarzyna Wojciechowska and Katarzyna Dos Santos Szewczyk
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 55; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020055 - 27 Mar 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 5671
Abstract
The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments [...] Read more.
The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments related to the treatment of skin diseases and cosmetic treatments which are mainly related to skin care. In this work, the method of literature research was applied. On the basis of books and journal articles on dermatological and cosmetic procedures for aged skin, an analysis of treatment types was made. Then, the results of this analysis were presented in the paper under discussion. The paper presents information on the skin and its properties. The structure and functions of the skin, aging processes and characteristics of aged skin were discussed. Then, the possibilities of reducing the visible signs of skin aging through the use of invasive and non-invasive dermatological and cosmetological treatments were given, and the most important components of preparations used supportively in combating skin aging processes were discussed. Full article
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20 pages, 1810 KiB  
Review
Current Insights into the Formulation and Delivery of Therapeutic and Cosmeceutical Agents for Aging Skin
by Ayça Altay Benetti, Tamara Tarbox and Camillo Benetti
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020054 - 25 Mar 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 5915
Abstract
“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, [...] Read more.
“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Formulations and Delivery Systems to the Skin)
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14 pages, 581 KiB  
Review
Nanomaterials in Cosmetics: An Outlook for European Regulatory Requirements and a Step Forward in Sustainability
by Laura Ferreira, Patrícia C. Pires, Mariana Fonseca, Gustavo Costa, Prabhanjan Shridhar Giram, Priscila Gava Mazzola, Victoria Bell, Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo, Francisco Veiga and Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 53; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020053 - 24 Mar 2023
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 3880
Abstract
The use of materials and products that improve appearance and provide comfort and well-being goes back to the beginning of civilization. Cosmetics is an evolving market that has increasingly focused on innovative technological approaches. Nanotechnology is one of the most revolutionary and promising [...] Read more.
The use of materials and products that improve appearance and provide comfort and well-being goes back to the beginning of civilization. Cosmetics is an evolving market that has increasingly focused on innovative technological approaches. Nanotechnology is one of the most revolutionary and promising fields for the development of novel and enhanced cosmetic products, owing to the remarkable multifunctional characteristics and effects of nanomaterials (NMs). Their application, however, also raises potential safety concerns. Some of these concerns can be addressed by determining the type of NMs used, as well as their stability, potential for skin absorption, route of exposure, and how they are formulated into cosmetic products. To guarantee such safety, cosmetic products containing NMs, must comply with European regulatory provisions, particularly the European Regulation (EC) n.° 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. Hence, this review comprises all the particularities of NMs, their influence on human health, challenges towards environmental sustainability, and strategies to harmonize policies with the aim to normalize their application in cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Nanoparticles for Cosmetic Use and Their Application)
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9 pages, 3195 KiB  
Case Report
Computer-Assisted Reconstruction of an Orbital Trauma Case Treated with a Patient-Specific Titanium Prosthesis
by Mhd Ayham Darwich, Khaldoun Darwich, Khalil Yousof, Szabolcs Szávai, Hasan Mhd Nazha and Daniel Juhre
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 52; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020052 - 20 Mar 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1966
Abstract
Virtual planning is ideally suited for maxillofacial operations as it allows the surgeon to assess the bony and critical neurovascular structures and enables him to plan osteotomies and fracture reductions. This study aims to propose the use of titanium-based patient-specific implants (PSI), along [...] Read more.
Virtual planning is ideally suited for maxillofacial operations as it allows the surgeon to assess the bony and critical neurovascular structures and enables him to plan osteotomies and fracture reductions. This study aims to propose the use of titanium-based patient-specific implants (PSI), along with virtual surgical planning to assess the advantages and the complications in a case of orbital reconstruction. A three-dimensional model of the skull was generated using computed tomography (CT) data of a female patient using Mimics software (version 19, Materialize, Leuven, Belgium). Numerical PSI models were designed using 3-Matic software (version 13, Materialize, Leuven, Belgium) and the non-affected orbit as a template. Surgical virtual planning showed the suitability of the use of the numerical models in traumatic surgical rehabilitation. Moreover, the digital printing process enabled the trial of the designed PSIs on the patient’s face before the surgery. Reconstruction Biomechanical studies are an essential part of understanding the limits of maxillofacial traumas. The surgical results confirmed the virtual predictions, and the orbital reconstruction seems to be more enhanced and facilitated. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Reconstructive and Aesthetic Procedures in Dental, Oral, Periodontal, Maxillofacial, Restorative, and Prosthodontic Therapy)
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14 pages, 3643 KiB  
Article
New Composite Materials Based on Chitosan Films Reinforced with Chitin Nanofibrils for Cosmetic Application
by Vera V. Kodolova-Chukhontseva, Elena Y. Rozova, Elena N. Dresvyanina, Yulia A. Nashchekina, Irina P. Dobrovol’skaya, Elena N. Vlasova, Sergey G. Bystrov, Elena N. Popova, Tatiana P. Maslennikova, Vladimir E. Yudin and Pierfrancesco Morganti
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020051 - 17 Mar 2023
Viewed by 2063
Abstract
Bioactive biodegradable chitosan films containing chitin nanofibrils have been developed for use as face masks in cosmetology. It was found that thermal modification of chitosan films promotes the transformation of the polymer into insoluble form without the use of alkali or aldehydes. The [...] Read more.
Bioactive biodegradable chitosan films containing chitin nanofibrils have been developed for use as face masks in cosmetology. It was found that thermal modification of chitosan films promotes the transformation of the polymer into insoluble form without the use of alkali or aldehydes. The structure and properties of the films were studied by IT spectroscopy, atomic force microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis, and X-ray structural analysis. Analysis of infrared (IR) spectra showed that the addition of nanofibrils accelerates the process of thermal transformation in the composite films. This is apparent from the observed increase in the intensity ratio of 1030 cm−1\1580 cm−1 peaks in the spectrum of the thermally treated film (as compared to the spectrum of the initial sample and the spectrum of a chitosan film without chitin nanofibrils). The prepared composite films containing chitin nanofibrils possess improved mechanical characteristics: tensile strength 99 MPa and tensile strain 14%. The tetrazolium bromide (MTT) test revealed good viability of human dermal fibroblasts cultivated in the presence of the conditioned medium obtained after incubation of all types of films in the nutrient medium. The used process of thermal modification of chitosan and composite films (which is efficient and environmentally safe) allows one to prepare bioactive materials for applications in medicine and cosmetology. Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Sustainability in Materials and Processes in Cosmetic Science")
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15 pages, 1954 KiB  
Article
Rehabilitation of Skin Bacterial Counts to Assess the Short-Term Impact of Ingredients in Topical Applications—Presenting a Culture-Based Viability Score
by Patrick Robe, Cyrille Jarrin, Catherine Zanchetta, Joran Dupont, Emilie Chapuis, Amandine Scandolera, Daniel Auriol and Romain Reynaud
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020050 - 17 Mar 2023
Viewed by 2039
Abstract
Our understanding of the interplay between skin microbiota and the skin’s health status is growing. Consequently, the cosmetics industry is increasingly concerned with ensuring that beauty products do not adversely affect this microbiota and skin health. Prior to implementing demanding sequencing-based analyses of [...] Read more.
Our understanding of the interplay between skin microbiota and the skin’s health status is growing. Consequently, the cosmetics industry is increasingly concerned with ensuring that beauty products do not adversely affect this microbiota and skin health. Prior to implementing demanding sequencing-based analyses of skin microbiota, an agile approach is needed to provide a first estimate of the short-term impact of cosmetic ingredients on the viability of skin microbiota. A standardized methodology, including topical applications, swabbing, and bacterial colony-counting, was set up and evaluated. The skin’s bacterial density was longitudinally monitored after repeated applications of two reference compounds: physiological saline, assumed to be neutral, and chlorhexidine, expected to have a perturbing effect. Healthy volunteers were enrolled in six clinical studies, involving application of physiological saline and chlorhexidine to both sides of the neck. Over 7 days, skin swabs were collected at defined time points, and bacterial density was assessed based on a classical colony-counting approach. The longitudinal assessment of skin bacterial density proved highly robust, with a very steady inter-seasonal impact of chlorhexidine on skin bacterial density. This consolidated methodology supported the development of an easy-to-understand viability score that quantifies the intrinsic short-term impact of an ingredient on skin bacterial populations. Full article
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23 pages, 17892 KiB  
Article
A New Approach toward the Management of Patients with Premature Skin Aging Using the Predictor Effect
by Nikolai N. Potekaev, Olga B. Borzykh, Elena I. Karpova, Marina M. Petrova, Natalia A. Shnayder, Maria A. Zatolokina, Olga M. Demina, Diana V. Dmitrenko and Elena E. Timechko
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 49; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020049 - 17 Mar 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2288
Abstract
Our study aimed to develop a comprehensive approach to the management of patients with involutional skin changes, considering the predictors of premature skin aging. The study included two stages, whereby 78 women with no history of aesthetic procedures that could have affected their [...] Read more.
Our study aimed to develop a comprehensive approach to the management of patients with involutional skin changes, considering the predictors of premature skin aging. The study included two stages, whereby 78 women with no history of aesthetic procedures that could have affected their perceived age were examined. In the first stage, we examined factors associated with premature skin aging. In the second stage, a blind, comparative placebo-controlled study of the effectiveness of intradermal injections for the treatment of involutional skin changes was conducted. Parameters reflecting skin aging were identified. The sum of these parameters could be used to diagnose premature skin aging in patients with no history of aesthetic treatment. For other patients, we developed indicators that can be applied to determine whether there is a risk of premature skin aging. Patients with premature aging have an increased risk of adverse events, such as impaired regeneration and wound healing, postprocedural hematomas, etc. For the correction of involutional skin changes in patients with premature aging, the collagen product (Collost) had the greatest clinical efficiency and the greatest patient satisfaction. A complex product based on HA (Teosyal Redensity 1) had comparable efficiency, with slightly less patient satisfaction. The product based on native HA (Hyon 1.8%) had low efficiency in the group of patients with premature aging and high efficiency in the group of patients with normal aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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10 pages, 1976 KiB  
Article
Aging and the Impact of Solar Ultraviolet Radiation on the Expression of Type I and Type VI Collagen
by Foteini Biskanaki, Vasiliki Kefala, Andreas C. Lazaris and Efstathios Rallis
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 48; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020048 - 16 Mar 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2427
Abstract
Both endogenous and exogenous factors cause skin aging. This study aimed to compare the differential expressions of collagen type I (COL I) and collagen type VI (COL VI) in skins with biological aging and photoaging. In order to comprehend the impact of solar [...] Read more.
Both endogenous and exogenous factors cause skin aging. This study aimed to compare the differential expressions of collagen type I (COL I) and collagen type VI (COL VI) in skins with biological aging and photoaging. In order to comprehend the impact of solar radiation in the dermis and the expression of COL I and COL VI, we studied the expression and their detection in healthy skin and in skin that had been characterized by aging. The hematoxylin and eosin staining protocol was performed in tissue paraffin blocks and they were then stained immunohistochemically with rabbit monoclonal anti-COL I and anti-COL VI antibodies. A total of 201 slides were studied with an Olympus BX 41 microscope, and the expressions of COL I and COL VI in the dermis were scored on a scale of 1 to 5, and then positively and statistically analyzed with IBM SPSS Statistics software. The results show that solar elastosis changes the structure of the skin’s collagen and solar elastosis was observed in the skin tissues with photoaging without appearing to be affected by its appearance in relation to age. Solar radiation divides the collagen fibers more rapidly than normal biological aging and replaces the collagen fibers of the skin. COL I and COL VI are expressed differently along the dermis of healthy skin tissue and the skin tissue subject to photoaging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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17 pages, 660 KiB  
Review
Biopigments of Microbial Origin and Their Application in the Cosmetic Industry
by Manal Jameel Kiki
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 47; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020047 - 10 Mar 2023
Cited by 9 | Viewed by 10754
Abstract
Along with serving as a source of color, many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages. These pigments have several applications in the food, agrochemical, medicine, and cosmetic industries. They have attracted the attention of these industries [...] Read more.
Along with serving as a source of color, many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages. These pigments have several applications in the food, agrochemical, medicine, and cosmetic industries. They have attracted the attention of these industries due to their high production value, low cost, stability, and biodegradability. Recently, many consumers worldwide have noted the impact of synthetic dyes; thus, natural pigments are more in demand than synthetic colors. On the other hand, the cosmetic industry has been moving toward greener manufacturing, from the formulation to the packaging material. Microbial pigments have several applications in the field of cosmetics due to their photoprotection, antioxidant, and antiaging properties, including inhibiting melanogenesis and acting as natural colorants for cosmetics, as some microorganisms are rich in pigments. More investigations are required to estimate the safety and efficacy of employing microbial pigments in cosmetic products. Furthermore, it is necessary to obtain information about DNA sequencing, metabolic pathways, and genetic engineering. In addition, unique habitats should be explored for novel pigments and new producing strains. Thus, new microbial pigments could be of consideration to the cosmetic industry, as they are ideal for future cosmetics with positive health effects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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10 pages, 1879 KiB  
Article
In Vitro Photoprotection and Functional Photostability of Sunscreen Lipsticks Containing Inorganic Active Compounds
by Priscila da Silva Marcelino, Renata Miliani Martinez, André Luís Maximo Daneluti, Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome, Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa, Patrícia Rijo, Catarina Rosado, Maria Valeria Robles Velasco and André Rolim Baby
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 46; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020046 - 09 Mar 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2629
Abstract
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a safe inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filter with activity against UV damage. However, the recombination of the carrier’s charge and the tendency for TiO2 aggregation are the main disadvantages. Substrate supports, such as mesoporous silica, are biocompatible [...] Read more.
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a safe inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filter with activity against UV damage. However, the recombination of the carrier’s charge and the tendency for TiO2 aggregation are the main disadvantages. Substrate supports, such as mesoporous silica, are biocompatible strategies to incorporate TiO2, altering its interaction with the skin. Since the lips are sensitive to the adversities of the environment, including UV radiation, the application of lipstick sunscreens is of great importance and expected to provide protection for this particular area against sunburn and photoaging, among other unfavorable responses unprotected UV exposure. We investigated the in vitro photoprotective efficacy and photostability of lipstick formulations containing TiO2 incorporated into mesoporous silica (SBA-15). The samples were the lipstick base; SBA-15; TiO2 (free form); and TiO2 incorporated into SBA-15. The photoprotective efficacy was characterized in vitro using a Labsphere UV2000S. Lipsticks were irradiated in a Suntest CPS+ chamber to evaluate functional photostability. Lipstick base and SBA-15 alone did not display photoprotective efficacy. The sample containing 10.0% TiO2 incorporated into the mesoporous silica generated greater photostability and sun protection factor (SPF) value compared to the one containing only 10.0% TiO2 (free state). Our findings suggest that TiO2 + SBA-15 can be considered a broad-spectrum ingredient for innovative sunscreens, particularly for the photoprotection of the lips. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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13 pages, 3870 KiB  
Article
Compatibility Investigation of Cationic Surfactants with Anionic Species
by Idit Yuli, Inbal Tzafrir and Paul Salama
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 45; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020045 - 07 Mar 2023
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 2808
Abstract
The objective of this study was to reexamine the general statement declaring that cationic and anionic species cannot be compatible in cosmetic products. This research demonstrated that there are considerable differences between the binding of cationic preservatives and various anionic compounds used in [...] Read more.
The objective of this study was to reexamine the general statement declaring that cationic and anionic species cannot be compatible in cosmetic products. This research demonstrated that there are considerable differences between the binding of cationic preservatives and various anionic compounds used in cosmetics, depending on the anionic functional group. Sulfate- and sulfonate-based molecules showed significantly stronger interactions with cationic surfactants than carboxylate-based anionic surfactants: This difference of affinity could reach a ratio of 1 to 10. We validated that conductimetry and isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC) can be used as predictive tools to determine the molecular interactions between any cationic and anionic species. Consequently, the correlation between compatible and incompatible cationic/anionic mixtures were verified and their corresponding anti-microbial activity using the challenge test was assessed. Full article
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10 pages, 2857 KiB  
Article
Q-Switched Nd:YAG Laser to Manage Hyperpigmentation in Asians: A Multicenter Study
by Giovanni Cannarozzo, Chiara Del Re, Francesca Negosanti, Stefano Bennardo, Giuseppe Fabrizio Amoruso, Steven Paul Nisticò and Luigi Bennardo
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 44; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020044 - 06 Mar 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 7230
Abstract
(1) Introduction: In cosmetic dermatology, benign hyperpigmentation is a prevalent issue. Solar lentigo and other melanoses are bringing patients to the attention of physicians more and more often. The Q-switched 1064/532-nanometer (nm) laser is the gold standard device to treat these conditions. A [...] Read more.
(1) Introduction: In cosmetic dermatology, benign hyperpigmentation is a prevalent issue. Solar lentigo and other melanoses are bringing patients to the attention of physicians more and more often. The Q-switched 1064/532-nanometer (nm) laser is the gold standard device to treat these conditions. A new generation of these machines, able to shorten pulse duration to hundreds of picoseconds, has emerged showing better preliminary results. In order to treat hypermelanoses in Asians, we used a Q-switched laser with a picosecond pulse. (2) Methods: A retrospective recruitment of 31 Asian individuals requesting treatment for melanosis was conducted at Catanzaro’s Magna Graecia University, University of Rome Tor Vergata and Villa Bella Antiaging. Although they might have varied, the treatment settings were typically as follows: for dermic lesions, a pulse wavelength of 1064 nm with a duration of 450 picoseconds (ps) was used, and for epidermal lesions, a pulse wavelength of 532 nm with a duration of 370 ps was used. Up to four laser treatments were carried out, each at least 30 days apart. During a three-month follow-up after the final session, patient satisfaction was evaluated using a visual analogue scale (VAS). Images taken prior to laser treatments and thereafter were compared, and the aesthetic effect was scored on a five-point scale by two blinded specialists. (3) Results: Of the 31 patients recruited, 25 (80.6%) were female and 6 were male (19.4%). The average stated age was 48.96 ± 13.68. During the dermatological examination, all patients were found to have nearly completely removed melanosis, with a mean VAS score of 7.03 ± 1.35 and a five-point evaluation scale of 2.71 ± 0.78. Conclusions: The Q-switched 1064/532 nm laser can be seen as a safe and effective option to treat benign hypermelanosis in Asian patients. Compared to other technologies, the use of a picosecond pulse appears to promise superior outcomes. To validate the results of this investigation, however, a clinical trial comparing the many commercially accessible therapy options is required. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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15 pages, 2645 KiB  
Article
Assessment of Antioxidant, Anti-Lipid Peroxidation, Antiglycation, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Tyrosinase Properties of Dendrobium sulcatum Lindl
by Tammanoon Rungsang, Jukkarin Srivilai, Pawarit Rakasawapokin, Patpitcha Rakasawapokin, Lapatrada Mungmai, Krittanon Saesue, Patteera Aoonboontum, Noppanon Plukham, Pandaree Siriwipanan, Pimchanok Chaichanathawikit, Nantaka Khorana and Eakkaluk Wongwad
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 43; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020043 - 01 Mar 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2746
Abstract
Dendrobium sulcatum Lindl or “Ueang Jampa-Nan” (Orchidaceae family) is widely dis-tributed in Thailand and Laos. It is classified in the genus Dendrobium, which is used in both traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic medicine for health enhancement and anti-aging. The purpose of this [...] Read more.
Dendrobium sulcatum Lindl or “Ueang Jampa-Nan” (Orchidaceae family) is widely dis-tributed in Thailand and Laos. It is classified in the genus Dendrobium, which is used in both traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurvedic medicine for health enhancement and anti-aging. The purpose of this study was to investigate the phytochemical constituents and bioefficacy of stems, leaves and flowers from D. sulcatum for cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Phenolic and flavonoid contents were tested for the phytochemical evaluation. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP and ABTS assays), anti-lipid peroxidation, antiglycation, anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase properties were assessed for their bioefficacy. The results showed that the extracts of stem and leaf had higher total phenolic content than that of the flower, and the leaf extract had the highest flavonoid content. The antioxidant, anti-lipid peroxidation and anti-inflammatory activities of the extracts were greater in those from the stem and leaf compared with that of the flower. The leaf extract exhibited the greatest antiglycation property. The results of anti-tyrosinase analysis of the extracts showed that the leaf and flower exhibited potent activities with a percentage inhibition greater than 70% (at a concentration of 50 µg/mL). In conclusion, these findings suggest that the ethanolic extracts from different parts of D. sulcatum are promising sources of natural active ingredients for further cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)
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14 pages, 4668 KiB  
Review
Natural Polymers and Cosmeceuticals for a Healthy and Circular Life: The Examples of Chitin, Chitosan, and Lignin
by Pierfrancesco Morganti, Gianluca Morganti and Maria-Beatrice Coltelli
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020042 - 28 Feb 2023
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2986
Abstract
The present review considers the design and introduction of new cosmeceuticals in the market, based on natural polymers and active molecules extracted from biomass, in a biomimetic strategy, starting with a consideration of the biochemical mechanisms, followed by natural precision biopolymer production. After [...] Read more.
The present review considers the design and introduction of new cosmeceuticals in the market, based on natural polymers and active molecules extracted from biomass, in a biomimetic strategy, starting with a consideration of the biochemical mechanisms, followed by natural precision biopolymer production. After introducing the contest of nanobiotechnology in relationship with its applicability for skin contact products and classifying the currently available sustainable polymers, some widely selected abundant biopolymers (chitin, chitosan, and lignin), showing specific functionalities (anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), are described, especially considering the possibility to combine them in nanostructured tissues, powders, and coatings for producing new cosmeceuticals, but with potentialities in other sectors, such as biomedical, personal care, and packaging sectors. After observing the general increase in market wellness and beauty forecasts over the next few years, parallelisms between nano and macro scales have suggested that nanobiotechnology application expresses the necessity to follow a better way of producing, selecting, and consuming goods that will help to transform the actual linear economy in a circular economy, based on redesigning, reducing, recycling, and reusing. Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Sustainability in Materials and Processes in Cosmetic Science")
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23 pages, 2204 KiB  
Review
3D Printed Hollow Microneedles for Treating Skin Wrinkles Using Different Anti-Wrinkle Agents: A Possible Futuristic Approach
by Humayra Islam, Taslima Sultana Poly, Zarin Tasnim Tisha, Samia Rahman, Ahmed Issa Jahangir Naveed, Alifa Ahmed, Saraf Nawar Ahmed, Jasmin Hassan, Md. Jasim Uddin and Diganta B. Das
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 41; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020041 - 27 Feb 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 4684
Abstract
Skin wrinkles are an inevitable phenomenon that is brought about by aging due to the degradation of scleroprotein fibers and significant collagen reduction, which is the fundamental basis of anti-wrinkle technology in use today. Conventional treatments such as lasering and Botulinum toxin have [...] Read more.
Skin wrinkles are an inevitable phenomenon that is brought about by aging due to the degradation of scleroprotein fibers and significant collagen reduction, which is the fundamental basis of anti-wrinkle technology in use today. Conventional treatments such as lasering and Botulinum toxin have some drawbacks including allergic skin reactions, cumbersome treatment procedures, and inefficient penetration of the anti-wrinkle products into the skin due to the high resistance of stratum corneum. Bearing this in mind, the cosmetic industry has exploited the patient-compliant technology of microneedles (MNs) to treat skin wrinkles, developing several products based on solid and dissolvable MNs incorporated with antiwrinkle formulations. However, drug administration via these MNs is limited by the high molecular weight of the drugs. Hollow MNs (HMNs) can deliver a wider array of active agents, but that is a relatively unexplored area in the context of antiwrinkle technology. To address this gap, we discuss the possibility of bioinspired 3D printed HMNs in treating skin wrinkles in this paper. We compare the previous and current anti-wrinkling treatment options, as well as the techniques and challenges involved with its manufacture and commercialization. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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23 pages, 4034 KiB  
Article
The Influence of Antioxidant Plant Extracts on the Oxidation of O/W Emulsions
by Arielle Springer, Helena Ziegler and Katrin Bach
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 40; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020040 - 24 Feb 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2475
Abstract
The demand for natural cosmetics has steadily increased in recent years. However, challenges occur especially in quality preservation regarding oxidative spoilage of natural cosmetic products, as the use of synthetic preservatives and antioxidants is limited. Therefore, it is important to find nature-based ingredients [...] Read more.
The demand for natural cosmetics has steadily increased in recent years. However, challenges occur especially in quality preservation regarding oxidative spoilage of natural cosmetic products, as the use of synthetic preservatives and antioxidants is limited. Therefore, it is important to find nature-based ingredients to ensure shelf life in natural cosmetic formulations. As a result, potential is seen in the use of plant-based antioxidant extracts. The aim of this work was to determine the suitability of the method combination by measuring the antioxidant activity, oxygen concentration, and volatile oxidation products via gas chromatography (hexanal) for the characterization of the influence of some plant extracts on the oxidative stability of natural cosmetic emulsions. Plant extracts of Riesling (Vitis vinifera) pomace, apple (Malus domestica) pomace, coffee (Coffea arabica) grounds, cocoa (Theobroma cacao) husk, and coffee (Coffea arabica) powder extract were incorporated in stable O/W emulsion formulations, while an emulsion without extract functioned as blank. Afterwards, the emulsions were subjected to 3-month accelerated storage tests with and without light exposure. Their oxygen uptake was investigated, and headspace gas chromatography measurements were performed to detect the fatty acid oxidation products formed during oxidative processes in the samples. The results showed that all emulsion samples under light exposure had a higher oxygen uptake and an increase in the characteristic fatty acid oxidation products compared with those stored under light exclusion. However, differences in oxygen uptake under light exposure were observed depending on the plant extract. Therefore, for O/W emulsions, the daily oxygen consumption rate correlated exponentially with the antioxidant activity, and the hexanal concentration correlated linearly with the daily oxygen consumption rate. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2022)
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13 pages, 549 KiB  
Review
Consumer Behavior, Skin Phototype, Sunscreens, and Tools for Photoprotection: A Review
by Maria Cristina Pinheiro Pereira Reis-Mansur, Beatriz Gonçalves da Luz and Elisabete Pereira dos Santos
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 39; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020039 - 23 Feb 2023
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 4700
Abstract
Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation. For example, protecting oneself in the shade, avoiding inadequate sun exposure at times of higher incidence of UVB radiation (between 10:00 a.m. and [...] Read more.
Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation. For example, protecting oneself in the shade, avoiding inadequate sun exposure at times of higher incidence of UVB radiation (between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.), wearing clothes with sun protection factors, applying sunscreens at the correct amounts and intervals, and wearing glasses with anti-UVA and UVB lenses are effective measures for protecting an individual. Therefore, the objective of this review was to highlight the importance of photoprotection for all skin phototypes, as skin cancer is a worldwide public health problem. In this review of the scientific literature on the Scopus platform between 2015 and 2022, we addressed the most common behaviors among different individuals and their phototypes, the importance of clarifying population habits against solar radiation, and the use of sunscreens and photoprotection tools to provide advice on healthy and safe sun exposure. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Consumer Behavior, Skin Type, and Usage of Cosmetic Products: Determinants and Implications for Cosmetic Counseling)
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12 pages, 7929 KiB  
Article
Low-Molecular-Weight Gels as Smart Materials for the Enhancement of Antioxidants Activity
by Aneta Ácsová Toronyi, Demetra Giuri, Silvia Martiniakova and Claudia Tomasini
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 38; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020038 - 21 Feb 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2304
Abstract
Antioxidants are important substances used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields that are able to block free radicals. These compounds can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, such as release over time or preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the [...] Read more.
Antioxidants are important substances used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields that are able to block free radicals. These compounds can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, such as release over time or preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the present study, a low-molecular-weight gel made with Boc-L-DOPA(Bn)2-OH was studied as suitable material to host antioxidants and improve their activity. The solvent change (DMSO/H2O) in combination with temperature was the technological procedure for the preparation of the gel. Two different antioxidants were tested: (1) α-tocopherol and (2) postbiotics. The antioxidant activity of α-tocopherol and of the postbiotics in the gel, measured by the (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl radical (DPPH) assay, showed higher values than those in the pure solvent. The antioxidant activity of the gel with 0.8 w/v% of gelator and α-tocopherol in the concentration range of 5–100 µM was 2.7–1.1 times higher on average than in the pure solvent. In the case of both postbiotics, the biggest difference was observed at 30% of postbiotics in the gel with 0.5% of a gelator, when the antioxidant activity was 4.4 to 4.7 times higher than that in the pure solvent. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)
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